Air 2 DIY service - Lessons Learned

[redacted]

Air 2 DIY service - Lessons Learned

Picked up a spare Air 2 on ebay last week. While it seemed to work OK, it had more green than I was used to. Some was bits of kelp and other was corrosion. Not real bad, but since it also smelled like the last user may have been a harbor seal, I decided to a service kit to it.

It really was pretty simple for my first trip thru an air 2 but there were a few lessons some might benefit from.

1. It was pretty cruddy so I soaked it in clean soft water for a couple days to loosen thing up. Seemed to work OK.

2. In spite of some of the dynamic o-rings being in poor shape, it help pressure and breathed quite well. The o-ring on the exhaust button had set in the shape of a washer rather than an O-ring. And the o-ring on the orifice was cracking and stiff. It definately needed the service.

3. Removing the exhaust spider without the special spider tool was also fairly easy. I used a small screwdriver against one spider leg at a time to get it started. Once started, I continued to use the screwdriver getting about 1/4 turn each time. A little tedious but not bad.

4. The spring on the inflator button can be switched with the demand valve spring. But the wrong spring does not have enough strength to overcome IP so it can not be adjusted to stop freeflow. The longer spring is the demand valve spring. Lesson learned the hard way but it gave me a little more practice with disassembly & assembly.

5. Had a bit of trouble reassembling the demand valve (with the correct spring) in the housing and attaching the insert, lever, washer and nut. You could probably do it with 3 hands. This is where the spider tool would be very helpfull. I finally removed the orifice from the inlet tube and the LP seat from the demand valve (to avoid damage). I then cut a piece from the cap of a cheap pen to act as a spacer between the inlet tube and the housing. With the 3/4 inch spacer in place of the orifice, I screwed the inlet tube into the housing which compressed and held the spring on the demand valve and allowed me to assemble the parts under the locking nut and secure the nut. The LP seat is easily installed after this is done.

 

[pclarke1]

Ok, so 13 years later there is a question. I am in the process of my own Air 2 rebuild. I am trying to remove the orifice from the housing, thus far I have had no success. In my Air 2 the orifice is plastic. The diagrams I have show that this screws in and while I am able to insert an allen key into the orifice, when I try to unscrew it the allen key ramps out and the oriface doesn't move. I am highly reluctant to add additional force or jam a screwdriver into it to make it turn as this would destroy the part and I have yet to find somewhere to buy a replacement otherwise I would just cut the part out. Any thoughts.

 

[redacted]

I am not sure what you mean by "ramps out" but if it means the Allen wrench does not engage it may be time for a new orifice. But start with long soaks and hot and cold water treatments to dislodge whatever is holding it. Then, a screw driver, larger Allen wrench or even an easy-out to get it turning. Even with that, the orifice may be usable as long as the knife edge is not damaged. But only you will know how to adjust it.

 

[pclarke1]

By "ramps out", means that after inserting the correct sized allen wrench into the orifice, when you turn the tool, it binds and becomes tight before slipping to the next position and becoming loose again. I will try soaking it for longer periods. Then an easy out. Thanks for that suggestion I had not even considered it

 

[NotSure]

I'm not familiar with the latest AIR 2 versions, but I was under the impression that the orifice for Generations 2,3 &4 were pressed in. I believe the photos below are second Gen.

 

[redacted]

3rd gen (brass orifice) screws in and allows adjustment. It looks like 2nd gen presses in. I expect the 4th gen would be screw in plastic.

 

[pclarke1]

elplastic.

 

[pclarke1]

My orifice is definitely plastic and the matches the one in the image above. It is also the same as in the link below. I will try the hot/cold then easyout route.

http://frogkick.dk/manuals/scubapro/Schematics/2. Stage/21-085-000 AIR 2 rev L.pdf

 

[pclarke1]

So despite soaking the orifice in hot water and attempting to remove it with an ezi-out it remained stuck fast. Eventually I had to cut it up with a dremel to get it out, which now means in addition to the orifice I need a new stem and poppet. I have never seen plastic stick to metal like that before. Even once it was cut in half it still needed to be worked out with a probe.

 

[Couv]

I'm afraid you've missed a step somewhere in your procedure. Before removing the orifice, you must separate the two parts of the air barrel. The orifice is in one half of the barrel, and the poppet is in the other.

Have you downloaded and read the AIR 2 "Repair Guide" and "Troubleshooting Guide?" In the meantime, have a look at your diagram and see items 5 and 13. (if we have the same diagram) Those two parts screw together to make up the barrel.