Scubapro mark V

[Luis H]

I think the second stage is newer than the first stage. The slot on the barrel to receive the D ring (near the adjusting knob) I believe was added in the later models of this regulator.

Maybe DA Aqua Master can confirm this since I am not positive.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

THe serial number would be a good indicator - I can't quite read it.

The adjustment knob is the older solid thick barrelled style, and the retianing clamps, if the screws are late out corectly, are the older style where there is a top and a bottom clamp where the bnottom is threaded on both sides and the top counter sunk on both sides. The later ones were a single part where one side was threaded and the other countersunk for the head so one screw faced up and the other faced down.

It could be assembled from various 109 parts in great shape as well and may not be "correct" for any given year but the serial number would help resolve the early versus late issue.

 

[halocline]

The exhaust valve is a currently available part, #11.109.128. I think it's the same as the current air2 exhaust valve. Just out of curiosity, why are you getting the air2 bushing tool? For this reg, you need the bullet, the SP tool to remove the HP seat carrier and disassemble the 1st stage, and o-ring picks, that's it. The double hook o-ring pick is my favorite; it's steel, so you have to be careful, but it's shaped in a way that makes it much less likely to scratch the seating area of the HP o-ring.

I would just go ahead and rebuild the first stage now, if you're planning on diving with it regularly. It might not be necessary, but to me it's kind of nice to have both stages done, and it's fun. You'll need a rebuild kit for it, no big deal, they're all over ebay. Actually all you need is a seat and some (six to do the whole reg) o-rings, so if you can find the o-rings I bet someone could send you a seat. Each kit has three which are used for different IP ranges. I'm always using the lower seats which raise the IP, so I could send you one of the taller ones.

At the least you might take the ambient chamber off, being careful not to pull the piston out with it. Then you could clean it, and check the turret bolt while you're at it. You might have one of the real oldies that uses a circlip instead of a turret bolt. If it were my reg, I'd have to pull it apart just to see that.

 

[Nemrod]

I cut my seats for the desired IP or shim the spring.

N

 

[HenrikBP]

I bought a box of SS screws for the 2nd stage clamp. They are slotted and the heads are a touch too big for the countersinking in my own clamps. But you're welcome to a couple of you shoot me a PM with an address.

To shape the heads to fit, I had considered gently clamping a screw in an electrical drill. Spin is up and carefully sand it down with emory paper. Haven't given it a try yet - so I can't give you a success rate

Oh, and there are apparently (at least) 2 different thread pitches for these screws, so what I have may or may not fit your clamps.

Henrik

 

[racerken]

OK, here I go...

My manual is on the way so I predict that I may have errors...

Hi Shawrg, you requested some pictures of the project. Well, the only really tricky part or what I would assume to be tricky would be if you are obsessive compulsive enough to remove the 'orifice' from the low pressure neck. The placement of the 'orifice' is position sensitive (but don't worry because you can reach the 'orifice' after assembly) so I measured the depth from the low pressure neck ridge prior to removal. Mine measured 0.45".
If you see my picture (on my dirty carpet) you will notice the micrometer somewhat aligned to the neck, the 'orifice' somewhat aligned with the micrometer, the 'duro poppet' which is that white plastic cylindrical shape, and the 'lever' made of steel. The 'lever' was placed in the picture to prove that it all aligns with these two square holes inside the 'case assembly' on the barrel that holds the 'duro poppet'. After reading this, I'm totally confused but you'll understand when you take it apart.

This is what it looks like before you pull the lever off:

This is my mock-up of the placement of the 'orifice' to the 'duro poppet' to the 'lever':

Based on the screw pitch of the 'orifice' vs. the screw pitch of the 'Balance knob' I'd say that ball park is good enough so long as you don't have the 'orifice' outside of the adjustment range of the 'Balance knob'.

If you play around with the 'balance knob' (when fully assembled and before you rip it apart) you will notice that the resistance of the 'lever' changes with the position of the 'balance knob'. From a mechanical engineering viewpoint, this is genius and simple.

Another note: when you remove the retaining clamp (or pin) lift it, do not pull it if it is as thick as mine. I pulled mine and it bent the slot on the way out.

DA Aquamaster: my serial number is 6507832.

Mattboy: I'm also stripping my Air-2 so I'm buying all these tools at once.

Here is my Air-2 Dump button and stem assembly:

I need to replace this due to pitting.

You know, I looked on Ebay but could not find any repair kits.

Awap: thanks for the help with the part names.



----------------------------------------------- another piece of equipment -------------

Anyone know how to clean out the fluid? I think it is mineral oil... but what about taking it apart and breaking the seal of the view port.

Thanks,

ken

 

[Luis H]

You adjust the volcano orifice (it looks like a little volcano) once you assemble the regulator with everything together including the diaphragm in place.

You just turn it in until it stops leaking and perhaps a small fraction of a turn further (maybe about 1/12 of a turn) to detune a bit for the forming of a groove on the soft seat and that is it.

When removing the volcano orifice, there is no need to take any measurements since it has to be retuned for the new seat anyway.

The adjustment knob on the opposite side just changes the spring tension and is adjusted at any time.

If you are referring about removing the D shaped clip, the best way is to unscrew the adjustment knob as far as possible to provide room for the curve section of the clip. The clip is then rotated towards the knob and then pulled out. There should be plenty of room to clear the curved section of the clip. It should be very easy to remove the clip.


It is probably a very good thing that I started servicing this regulator (for the LDS) back when I was 14 years old, long before I got my engineering degrees (including mechanical). Thanks for the pictures, they are great. I just hope I am not that anal...actually I probably am.
Just kidding

 

[redacted]

I would not worry too much about the lose of chrome on the Air2 exhaust button. If the shaft o-ring seals OK then just be extra careful in soaking it after SW dives. If it does not seal, then I have had good luck using a light abrasive (Brasso in this case) to polish the seating surface a bit. I have even used it on a pitted ambient chamber seating surfaces with success. The only tool I found I needed for my air2 was a piece of an eraser to help assemble the lever & poppet parts into the housing. With the orifice removed, I place the spring and poppet into the housing, stick the chunk of soft eraser between the housing and the inlet tube and screw the two together. With the right size chunk of eraser, the poppet stem is pushed through the housing so you can easily assemble the external bits (insert, lever, washer, and nyloc nut). Without the "tool", I could not hold the poppet and spring in place and connect the external bits without someone else to help.

I suspect the SPG is not worth repairing. It may still be usable for now but there is probably a crack in the plastic case that is seeping the oil as you decend and then expanding as you ascend allowing water and air to enter. If you turn it over, can you see water under the oil?

 

[shawrg]

Ken,

Thanks for the pictures and description. Excellent job! I have my Mark V in front of me and I'm considering a tear down. By comparison, yours looks pristine!

 

[racerken]

Luis,

I am anal and I do record Monk. There is medication for this but can't afford to the boat trip to the Similan Islands at this time. Now, back to ASME Y14.41.

awap,

I think have to print out your eraser description...
The gauge has some floating junk which used bug me, now it's driving me crazy. Must be these long Michigan winters, wine, couch, TV, nothing to take apart.


sharwrg,

go for it. it's cheap therapy and if you make a mistake, you can send it any of these guys for proper disposal. Seriously, the only harm you can do is: strip threads, tear the rubber, bend a part. Assuming you test it, the worst thing that could happen is that it free flows at 60ft so you have to ascend to the surface and lose a dive. I think this is the finest regulator in the world and well worth all the effort.

Regards,

Ken