Gear, from my perspective.
1.) I prefer weight-integrated BCDs over weight belts. If you're chubby, shaped like a bowling pin, and that belt slides down over your gut, it's kind of a straight drop. And I had trouble pivoting while wearing one years ago. They work fine for many people, but I, at least, love weight-integrated.
2.) Tanks - get steel rather than aluminum. Steel is very long-lasting and heavier, so you needed add as much lead weight. If you go for larger capacity, consider low-pressure rather than high-pressure, since high-pressure tanks can put a strain on compressors, and some places won't give you a complete fill in one. From what I understand low-pressure large tanks aren't a whole lot larger/heavier.
3.) Boot(ie)s - My wife & my friend really like the SeaSoft Sunray. Looks & I think feels more like a sneaker & less like some weird-looking sock with a zipper. If they came in size 15's, I'd give you a first hand account.
4.) Dive computer - get one that can handle Nitrox, since it's likely you'll eventually get nitrox certified, especially if Bonaire or a Live-aboard is in your future. Air integrated adds cost but can automatically store pressure data, if you download to a PC logbook program later. Wrist dive computers that are air integrated rely on wireless transmitters. An example is the Oceanic VT3. I was warned if I put a transmitter on a tank, not to use it like a handle when lifting the tank, and that if the tank got knocked over & the thing was hit, it might break. I'm absent minded; I own the transmitter, but I haven't used it. Non-wrist air-integrated dive computers tend to be much like standard consoles, from what I understand; the Oceanic Pro Plus 2.1 (not just 2) is an example.
Try to borrow a dive computer example of each, console & wrist. This is expensive enough you won't want to just run out & buy another one in a few months. Some, like the Oceanic Atom 2.0, can be worn like wrist watches, but I don't want to wear something that expensive (or battery hungry) as a wrist watch, and I like a larger display to read at depth (the VT3 is larger than the Atom 2.0). If you DO like the Atom, wait; an Atom 3.0 is due out soon.
5.) It can be hard to hold a compass level enough to work well. I was told the Sunto wrist compass was pretty good about this, I bought one, and it seems to be better than the console compass I had used. In the past I read a bit online about digital compasses (in dive computers) & people didn't seem all that impressed with them.
6.) Dive lights - if you get one, consider LED. Efficient, long-lasting on batteries, and they don't burn so hot so you can use them on land. Some halogen lights are to be used only underwater due to giving off so much heat. I like the Princeton Tec Miniwave LED version; the Shockwave is larger but holds double the batteries.
7.) Get a tank banger. Especially if you travel & rent tanks, take it with you. And extras. If you happen to run out of air 60 feet down, suddenly realizing your buddy is 15 feet away trying to photograph an uncooperative moray eel while you're freaking out is not going to be fun.
8.) I keep a disposable razor in my logbook to shave the top of my mustache off to get a better mask seal when I dive.
9.) If you get a dive slate, get a smaller model that can be clipped on your wrist or something. You're not going to want a bunch of stuff hanging off you. I've bought 2 dive slates & don't use either.
10.) You're going to need your regulator serviced periodically, so be sure you buy a model that some dive shop in your area will service. There are a number of reputable brands & models; I have an Atomic B2, but I understand ScubaPro & some others are very reputable, too.
11.) Local Dive Shops tend to cost more than online, but supporting them can be worthwhile. A reputable low-price vendor is ScubaToys.com - do mention that you're a Scubaboard.com forum member to get a discount, assuming they still do that. I use them & Scuba.com to get an idea of good prices on equipment, then decide if the local dive shop price is too much higher to stomach. For example,
here's their $1165 scuba gear package that includes a Zeagle BCD (Zeagle is a well-regarded brand, although I dive a Sherwood Avid), an Oceanic Pro Plus and some other stuff. No fins & boots, though.
12.) If you're going to dive anywhere there might be fishing line, especially in the ocean, get some EMT shears &/or a dive knife that can cut that line. You know that line they reel in huge, leaping marlins on? You can't snap that with your hands. Entanglement is bad news. Titanium is highly rust resistant albeit expensive, so if you get a dive knife, & you're a little lazy about rinsing & drying off gear, consider titanium a good investment. Oh, and from the forum discussions I believe a dive knife should be small with a blunt tip (so you don't poke something you shouldn't) - don't get some big honking Crocodile Dundee 'short-sword' class dive knife.
Richard.
