Scubapro regulators under Ice

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CAPTAIN SINBAD

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Fellows: I wanted to know how Scubapro regulators do in cold waters specially ice-conditions? Has anyone used them for ice-diving or Great Lakes? I heard from an Aqualung dealer that they are known for free-flowing in ice-conditions and Apeks is the cold-water regulator of choice by among the ice diving community. But the guy is an Aqualung dealer so ...

Anyone not happy with how Scubapro fares under ice?
 
Anyone not happy with how Scubapro fares under ice?
I have had no problems with my Scubapro regs in very cold water. The preferred Scubapro regs are MK17/A700, MK17/G260 or MK17/G260 Tactical for cold water.
 
I have had no problems with my Scubapro regs in very cold water. The preferred Scubapro regs are MK17/A700, MK17/G260 or MK17/G260 Tactical for cold water.

How do you define very cold water. Ice conditions? Or 50ish.
 
Quick history lesson, the big manufacturers tend to focus on either piston or diaphragm style first stages. Apeks and Poseidon are the big boys in the Diaphragm side, neither of them make a piston first stage, Scubapro and now Atomic *bunch of ex Scubapro engineers btw* are basically all pistons. Scubapro does make the MK11, and MK17 which are diaphragm *I think these are actually a Tusa design that was adopted by SP*, but you don't see them often, the MK25 and MK2 are much more common and generally the ones you see when people think of Scubapro first stages.

Diaphragm regulators are generally preferred to piston regulators in ice diving conditions mainly due to their ability to be sealed much more easily. Poseidon dominates this field with Apeks almost tied for 2nd. Apeks is probably more popular, but more of the cold water Navy's turn to Poseidon.
The MK17 is a diaphragm regulator that is sealed, so shouldn't have any cold water issues there, the MK25 can be sealed, but it involves packing the housing with grease, and it has had a lot of issues with cold water performance over it's lifetime. I would steer clear of pistons for any cold water diving, not that they can't be used or aren't being used, but there are much better designs out there for cold water. Hog D1/D3, Apeks full series, Poseidons with the environmental caps on them, hell even without them the Poseidons generally have less freezing problems than the piston designs, Dive Rite, etc. Any sealed diaphragm will out perform a piston in cold water.

Scubapro second stages are a non-issue, the designs of the seconds are all pretty much the same aside from the servo assisted regs from Poseidon and Oceanic/Hollis, so it is all about the first stage design.
 
Below 40 degrees = Very Cold H2O!

How do you define very cold water. Ice conditions? Or 50ish.
Below 40 degrees: 62bfb970537f81c71a427cf973ada34d.jpg
 
Tbone is obviously a southerner with claiming SP diaphragms aren't often seen...

MK-17/g2XXX (and similars) are quite common up in the Great Lakes for those that actually dive up here. The vacation divers still buy pistons. I don't dive ice (currently), but temps in the middle 30's and low 40's are par for the course with adventures below the thermocline. Tobermory in July will still test your equipment......
 
Bob, New Englander, grew up in MA, last two years were in Maine, just got back down to SC. We saw a lot more Apeks and Poseidons up in our neck of the woods, and HOG's were starting to come up in popularity as well. I just don't see a lot of Scubapro regs in general with the guys I dive with..... Only time I really see them are in the caves with the DIR/GUE crowd using the MK25's since they love their pistons. Even down here, there are a lot more Apeks and clones out and about than the Scubapro's. It's a shame Atomic doesn't make diaphragms, I would actually consider switching just to support a small company that manufacturers their regs in the USA, but alas, I won't go to pistons since I do get into ice diving occasionally and dive in sub40f water regularly with Jocassee and some of the quarries down here in the winter.

Point still stands, if you want to ice dive with a Scubapro, get a MK17, though you can save money if you buy the Halcyon H-50D, or Tusa R-700 which are all identical regs that come out of Tabata in Japan. Tusa is Tabata-USA btw. This is one time when Halcyon actually represents a value product in the dive industry, I'd rather the money be going to a small company in the US, than to the multi-billion dollar Jarden corporation, so Halcyon>>>>Scubapro if you want to buy those regs.

Halcyon Single Tank Regulator System #2 | Extreme Exposure
H-50D singles set, for under $900. Not a bad deal, and Extreme Exposure has kickass customer service, as does Halcyon, so win win, the same can not be said for Scubapro/Jarden unfortunately.
 
I would actually consider switching just to support a small company that manufacturers their regs in the USA,

My feelings! If Atomics gets into Diaphram designs and they are able to make one as good as their piston then I would not buy anything else. I love Atomics but not the ideal reg for my purposes.

---------- Post added November 12th, 2014 at 02:26 PM ----------

Copying from another website. I am wondering if anyone else has had similar experience:-

Strange to read these experiences that y'all have had - they seem very contrary to my own.

I'm diving somewhere in the vicinity of 500 dives a year - that's like 2-3 dives per day, anywhere from 3-4 days a week. Most of my diving is of the seriously dirty variety, with almost no vis, if any at all. My local waters are very salty and silty - and if I'm not cleaning boat bottoms, I'm digging in the mud for fossils. About twice a month I head offshore, where there's vis and blue water - which is still salty and full of plankton. About every other month I actually hit freshwater.

My gear is rarely dry - nightly it goes from the back of my truck into a rinse tank, and then back into the truck the next morning. I keep my regs pressurized almost all the time, since I'm either breathing on them or they're sitting in the rinse tank.

For these reasons, I wanted to avoid any regulator with any grease or silicone exposed to the water. So when I decided to try a Scubapro reg, I decided to use a MK16/S550/R380 combination.

The MK16 lasted about three months before becoming inoperative due to it refusing to hold intermediate pressure. I serviced all three stages of the regulator, and frankly was completely unimpressed with the grade of materials being used inside of them. While Scubapro may brag on their use of "advanced materials" like carbon fiber, graphite-impregnated plastics and titanium, my impression was not good - it all looked (and wore) like cheap plastic, in my opinion. Critical parts should be metal and rubber, in my opinion - stainless steel, brass, and aluminum, depending on the the application... And none of it should be exposed to waterborne contaminants such as silt or salt.

A quick exerpt on this: I do not understand why any regulator manufacturer would make a regulator who's critical parts are exposed directly to the water. With microscopic contaminants even in the cleanest of water, sealing all critical components seems like a good idea in most cases, and necessary in mine. Sealed regs also tend to work better in colder climes than unsealed regs, if you're into that kind of thing. And with no disadvantages to sealing a reg (it's not like it reduces it's performance or anything), why would any regulator NOT be sealed? Anyway, that's just my opinion...

My rebuild seemed only partially effective - it wasn't but a couple of weeks before the MK16 began to leak IP again. So... I had them professionally serviced this time by a local Scubapro dealer, who frankly, was ticked off that I didn't buy the regs from him (they were a Leisurepro purchase - a good thing - which I'll explain in a second) and charged me accordingly. $150 lighter, I went to pick up my regs and caught crap from him about using a long hose primary - which resulted in me finally getting quite insulted by his ignorance and arrogance. To this day, I don't do business with his shop any more - a seriously stupid financial move on his part, given that I'm a working diver and a dive club operator. 'Nuff said on that topic...

Anyway, when I got the regs home I found that not only was IP still not being held in the regs, but my $150 had actually made the problem worse. Frustrated, and with only something like 8 months on the regs, I contacted Leisurepro to ask them for their advice. They told me to send the regs in and that they would service them - but when I explained to them my dive schedule, they offered me - get this - a 100% credit for the price of the regs. I promptly purchased an Apeks ATX200/ATX50 combo and set it up Hogarthian style. Kudos to Leisurepro!

I put almost two years on that reg setup before having it serviced - and not only did it never fail, but it never failed to breathe silky-smooth and dry. I've serviced the regs myself (and been impressed with the quality of the working components of the regs) and had them serviced by authorized dealers (not the same guy as above). These regs are great. They not only outperform any other reg that I've compared it to (usually a Scubapro, Sherwood, or Genesis that my buddies have played with), but do so despite their obvious frequent use in piss-poor conditions.

Since purchasing the ATX200 (which I did to get the improved routing of the ATX200 first stage), I have purchased many additional regs - all of which are ATX50/DS4/ATX50 combinations. If I had to do it all over again I wouldn't bother with the extra expense of the ATX200 - internally, the ATX200 combo and ATX50/DS4 are the same reg - in fact, they even use the same rebuild kit. The difference is simply cosmetic and the fact that the ATX200 first stage is shaped differently than the DS4. Interestingly, the company's "wowie" reg is the "Black Pearl," which is simply an ATX200 combo with a cool gunmetal finish, some etching, and a limited edition number. Funny, though, how the big scuba magazines all give grossly varying reports on the regulators in their "gear tests" - if I remember correctly, the Black Pearl was their vast favorite, with the ATX200 getting rave reviews and big recommendations - yet they weren't at all crazy about the ATX50/DS4 combo, which is internally the same reg. Or something like that... I just remember them having wildly differing opinions on the same equipment when there were different price tags attached.

Anyway, I now own several ATX50/DS4/ATX50 combos - which breathe exactly like my ATX200 combo. And - they not only last, but outperform everything else I've compared them to while being abused. Truly, I'm impressed.

For those of you who don't know, Apeks is owned by Aqualung, and is considered to be Aqualung's "high line," similar to Acura and Honda, Lexus and Toyota, V-dub and Audi, etc.

I'm not sure why anyone here is even talking about the Apeks DST - while otherwise identical to the DS4, the turret on the DST is not only completely unnecessary with DIR hose routing (with either the single or double tank configuration), but provides a totally unneeded failure point - in a first stage (a critical life support piece of gear).

APEKS vs Scubapro - Page 2
 
functionally the DS4, DST, FST, and FSR regs are actually different. They do use the same parts kits, but there are some internal differences in the first stages as far as gas routing is concerned. The second stages are however identical. The FSR *the 1st stage for the 200 series*, also has a removable HP seat crown which is nice if your repair tech fubars a repair job as that is the one thing that can permanently destroy a first stage.... Poseidon gets around this by using a ruby ball in their new MK3 first stages, which is properly brilliant, and the new Hog D3 also has a removable crown in case you damage it.

He is also wrong about the 5th port being completely unnecessary with DIR hose routing, note that the official GUE gear configuration pictures for the doubles show Scubapro MK25's on the tanks. They also show DS4's, but the turrets are preferred.

Reasons not to use sealed regulators, if you have a CCR that has a controlled bleed on the O2 side, you can't have it sealed because the balancing mechanisms are less than perfect when they are sealed. Obviously not a huge issue, but that is why you don't see all CCR's with sealed first stages. Diaphragms are also sealed by the diaphragm, so the only thing exposed is the big ass spring, and the threads for the cap/adjusting screws. Not the end of the world if a diaphragm isn't sealed, but pistons can get a bit more interesting which is the first part of his issues.

Friendly reminder, the MK17 is still a sealed diaphragm, so is not subject to the same problems as the piston regulators, it isn't a Scubapro vs. Apeks thing, it is like I said in my first response, a piston vs. a diaphragm thing. Any piston regulator is going to have a rough go at ice diving and nasty gross water diving compared to a diaphragm, it's just a fact of live. You can seal them but it is very nasty having to pack them with grease to keep everything out, and then it's just a nasty overall package. Diaphragms win in that route, nice clean clear water is no problem, that's why the GUE guys love their pistons, but it's one diving situation, not every one.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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