PLBs Can Save Your Life

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The machinist put cross-hatch finish around the lid 1/4" lip for that very reason. It’s pretty easy for me to open it. However, the 3" OD canister may be a bit too big for small hand to grip around. Hopefully the smaller diameter one (2.5" OD) would be better. We'll see in 2 weeks. :)

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I'm going to try to fit my ACR 400 into an old uw video camera housing. Will keep you guys posted if it fits.

I'm also pretty crazy paranoid when diving in remote places, because I've had two engine breakdowns due to faulty wiring or engine issues. Fortunately, we had cell phones in both cases and were able to call for another boat.
 
All else regarding transmission and frequencies/satellites are the same? I am most concerned about the actual back end side of how my rescue would play out if I transmitted with one vs. the other.

They are the same. All 406 MHz PLB's are required to be the same. Unless you are in Australia, then it's a bit different, but not by much. :)
 
I have the Custom Divers canister and can confirm the following problems with my unit:

1. If you over tighten when you close it, it is almost impossible to open.

2. The unit leaks slightly. I’d say a little less than a teaspoon of water enters the canister over a dive trip. I’ve gotten used to it and it does not bother me now. My PLB is water resistant to 10m (?) and the little water that finds its way into the canister does not appear to be too detrimental.

YMMV
Yes, don't over tighten. Just screw it down until it stops and then give it one slight turn. Maybe 12 mm.

If you still have a leak, pick up a thicker outside o-ring. I'd tell you to just go to your local ACE hardware, but I see you're not in the States. I forget the size, but next time I'm in there I will remember to look.

The thinner o-ring seemed to be able to get damaged and deformed too easily. In the absence of not sourcing a thicker o-ring, you could put a single wrap of Teflon tape and that would probably help too.
 
I've been looking at the PLB1 from Ocean Signal which has now been acquired by Artex the same company that owns the ACR line. Is there another one that I should be considering such as the ACR PLB 400 that @MaxE just mentioned? What are the primary differences? Any other ones that I should look at? Thanks!

As mentioned the new ACR is slightly bigger, however it is buoyant. The PLB1 is not; thus, it requires the flotation pouch which then would negate the benefit of having a smaller size.

Frankly, I would not want a PLB that doesn't float. Could you imagine if you fumbled it taking it out of the pouch to deploy and watching it sink to the abyss. :confused:
 
Yes, don't over tighten. Just screw it down until it stops and then give it one slight turn. Maybe 12 mm.

If you still have a leak, pick up a thicker outside o-ring. I'd tell you to just go to your local ACE hardware, but I see you're not in the States. I forget the size, but next time I'm in there I will remember to look.

The thinner o-ring seemed to be able to get damaged and deformed too easily. In the absence of not sourcing a thicker o-ring, you could put a single wrap of Teflon tape and that would probably help too.
Tightness is nota goal with o-rings. Over tightening an o-ring simply deforms it and causes leaks. Just like a too tight mask strap will cause leaks. My concern with these bottles is they are air filled and rigid. If they leak even a little bit, it another item that will need to be cleaned between dives and if they leak a little, they could leak a lot. Also, it will you be able to unscrew the cap in an emergency with cold, hypothermic hands. A couple of people have mentioned having trouble unscrewing them. A water tight case with a snap closure seems like a much more reliable container.
 
With over 100 dives, over 100 feet deep on my CD canister I only had one dive that it was hard to open, the first one. Where I over tightened it. Even then, I did not need the assistance of a tool. I would have bought something different by now if I thought it was an issue.

Keep in mind, if you're truly in an emergency lost at sea situation, the adrenaline will probably be pumping at first and you'll be much stronger than you would be sitting in your garage cleaning your gear.

Also, these PLB's are submersible and my understanding is they can go much deeper than they are rated, but the buttons would depress and so that is the point where they make the depth rating.
 
With over 100 dives, over 100 feet deep on my CD canister I only had one dive that it was hard to open, the first one. Where I over tightened it. Even then, I did not need the assistance of a tool.

Are you suggesting that after surfacing (and while on the surface) after every dive, you tried to open the canister? Testing it after it heats up and pressure equalizes does not really count.
 
Are you suggesting that after surfacing (and while on the surface) after every dive, you tried to open the canister? Testing it after it heats up and pressure equalizes does not really count.

No, I open it after driving back to the dock with it baking in the Florida sun on the deck of the boat, or after it sitting in the truck baking in the sun on the ride home.

But, to your point, it bakes in the sun before a dive and then gets cooled in the water during the dive so I would expect it would be even easier to open in the water than after it has heated up in the sun and has expanded.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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