A little help with a mako 5404 compressor

[landonnin1]

Hello Everyone,
I have a Mako 5404 that is new to me. Here is what I know about it from the old owner, Oil was changed and air filters were changed. The 3rd stage piston is a floating type, I was told that it is ok that it knocks is the 3rd stage till pressure is built up true or false ? should I plan on changing the 3rd stage piston? If I wanted to do a valve inspection/cleaning should I order new gaskets and o rings? or can I reuse what is there? any help on this would be appreciated

Thank you
Matt

 

[rjack321]

How many hours?
When was the oil last changed? Is it synthetic or mineral?
Throw any included filters away (unless still in original packaging with dated receipt in last ~18months)
Does it have just the factory filter or additional filtration?
Does it have a backpressure regualtor already?
Does it pump air at roughly the rated rate?

 

[landonnin1]

How many hours?
The hour gauge reads 76

When was the oil last changed? Is it synthetic or mineral?
Oil was changed when the previous owner bought it at 70 hours with Chemlube 501, also the air filter was changed then.

Does it have just the factory filter or additional filtration?
Just factory filter changed at 70 hrs, it takes a mako 1801 filter

Does it have a back pressure regulator already?
yes set at 2500 psi, When I start the compressor it knocks in the 3rd stage till it builds up enough air to start flowing

Does it pump air at roughly the rated rate?
I am getting about 5 to 5.2 cfm's out of it

The only other thing I have done to the compressor was I added auto drains to it.

Thank you
Matt

 

[Wookie]

Sounds like you are doing everything right. I've seen those pistons last about 500 hours, so no need to have a spare unless it's critical that it runs. Valve kits come with the o-rings that seal the head to the jug, so the kit is all inclusive. Don't try to source the o-rings yourself, the durometer and size is critical. Just suck it up and buy the high dollar ones from GD. With 76 hours and chemlube there is no real reason to suspect that you are carboning up the valves. That tends to happen when the compressor runs continuously, hot, or with mineral oil.

Edit. Yes, when you first start it, it sounds like the piston is trying to drive it's way out through the top of the head. This is unsettling, and normal.

 

[landonnin1]

Thank you very much, I was just thinking about inspecting the valves and cleaning them if needed but I will leave well enough alone and just run the normal maintenance schedule

Again thank you for the info
Matt

 

[CraigAClark]

Sounds like you are doing everything right. I've seen those pistons last about 500 hours, so no need to have a spare unless it's critical that it runs. Valve kits come with the o-rings that seal the head to the jug, so the kit is all inclusive. Don't try to source the o-rings yourself, the durometer and size is critical. Just suck it up and buy the high dollar ones from GD. With 76 hours and chemlube there is no real reason to suspect that you are carboning up the valves. That tends to happen when the compressor runs continuously, hot, or with mineral oil.

Edit. Yes, when you first start it, it sounds like the piston is trying to drive it's way out through the top of the head. This is unsettling, and normal.

Hey Wookie,
L-Factor is now putting out valve kits for a lot of Mako units. I used a complete set on a 5405 well over a year ago and they seem to be the same quality (most likely same supplier) as the OEM.

 

[Wookie]

Hey Wookie,
L-Factor is now putting out valve kits for a lot of Mako units. I used a complete set on a 5405 well over a year ago and they seem to be the same quality (most likely same supplier) as the OEM.

Yes, I'm waiting for 5406 kits to come out. My Mako dealer says they are of the same quality. I really can't wait for final pistons.

 

[diverDano]

Well, where do I start. I've got a 5405 of which I have become very intimate with as of late. Due to human error I blew up the second stage piston(link here Mako 5405 Tank fill compressor - YouTube). Up until that happened, I had just ran an air quality test through Lawrence factor, and after two years with the same filters, and about 500 hrs, the test came back pure for grade E. I use AA2000 for oil which is a syn food grade oil that I purchase from American Airworks for $53 a gal. Also, the third stage piston and sleeve, and all three valves were ok but ready for replacement after 1100 hrs. I also run two separators with a 1801, 1803, and a 1503 for filters. Finding a copy of the universal mako manual will tell you where your stage pressures should be at and that will give you an indication as to the compression you're getting from your compressor. For example, before the rebuild I was getting 60 psi from the first stage, and 600 psi from the second, filling to 3500 psi. After the rebuild, I'm getting 72 and 700psi which is where it is supposed to be.

 

[landonnin1]

Well, where do I start. I've got a 5405 of which I have become very intimate with as of late. Due to human error I blew up the second stage piston(link here Mako 5405 Tank fill compressor - YouTube). Up until that happened, I had just ran an air quality test through Lawrence factor, and after two years with the same filters, and about 500 hrs, the test came back pure for grade E. I use AA2000 for oil which is a syn food grade oil that I purchase from American Airworks for $53 a gal. Also, the third stage piston and sleeve, and all three valves were ok but ready for replacement after 1100 hrs. I also run two separators with a 1801, 1803, and a 1503 for filters. Finding a copy of the universal mako manual will tell you where your stage pressures should be at and that will give you an indication as to the compression you're getting from your compressor. For example, before the rebuild I was getting 60 psi from the first stage, and 600 psi from the second, filling to 3500 psi. After the rebuild, I'm getting 72 and 700psi which is where it is supposed to be.

diverDano,
Thank you for the link and the info

Matt