A300CS OLED Dive Computer

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I can't find anything on version F either.

Is there any way to get dive time/bottom time/whatever you want to call it on the main screen rather than having to go through another menu to see it? As an instructor, in low-viz murky,silty, and dark water, I want to be able to glance quickly at my computer rather than having to mess with menus to see this information.

Agreed. I usually look for dive time information at my backup computer (that I still need because the A300 is a bit flaky - the compass problem, for instance, still isn't fixed!) instead of going to the secondary screen. The normal dive mode screen could use some work besides that. I would like to have it display "32%" or whatever instead of "gas 1" - one more opportunity to catch an error in the gas setting. And I don't know why they have added the battery status permanently to that screen in a previous firmware update. I need to know only when it's getting low, but don't need to watch it constantly to make sure it's still green. Finally, I would like to have an indicator whether I'm on-gassing or off-gassing, like a time derivative of the nitrogen gas loading bar. This would tell me if a deep stop is helpful, or not.
 
I can't find anything on version F either.

Is there any way to get dive time/bottom time/whatever you want to call it on the main screen rather than having to go through another menu to see it? As an instructor, in low-viz murky,silty, and dark water, I want to be able to glance quickly at my computer rather than having to mess with menus to see this information.

i totally agree. i had my first DSD with a student and the a300 on my left wrist. with my right hand i graped the valve and with the left i held the inflator. because we usally do a dsd for round about 20 minutes, i tried to find the elapsed time but could not find it. i dont want to release the student to push any buttons if i want to know the dive time.
thats annyoing. or imagine you have a camera in you right hand or what ever... dive time is a common parameter which should be shown on the mainscreen. btw, are there computers which are not showing the dive time permanently on the main screen? with my d6 or vyper i can choose what should be shown (max depth, air, temperature) on the main screen, simply by pushing a button and thats the default then.
the a300cs is pretty new, lets see what will happen with the firmware in the future...
cheers
 
Gentlemen,
I've updated my A300CS to 1F firmware and found following release notes:

AERIS has modified the following functions associated with operations of the A300 CS:

- Changed the display of Surface Interval Time and associated graphics to light blue from dark blue that was difficult to see during conditions of bright sunlight.
- Changed the display of Deep Stop and Safety Stop Depth, Time, and associated graphics to yellow from dark blue that was difficult to see during most conditions underwater.
- Corrected the Date/Time clock that was losing time.
- Corrected the Gas Switch routine that prevented a switch to Gas 1 from Gas 2 or 3 during times when Gas 4 was set OFF.
- Improved the Compass function that would sporadically lock up.


---------- Post added August 28th, 2014 at 01:10 AM ----------

I looked at the rechargeables but they were only rated at about 350 mah where the nonrechargeables are 750 mah thats too much difference for me

FYI: I've recently purchased a pair of 800 mAh LiFePO4 rechargeable CR2 batteries (this form factor is also known as 15270). I haven't tested them yet but price is quite low anyway :)
 
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Hello, 1st post but long time reader. I picked up my A300 CS yesterday. It has firmware 1f. I signed up for dive cloud and installed the IOS apps. So far, apps are great but you can't load dives you manually entered (my old paper dive log). The iOS connects great and sync easy. My quick email to diverlog was returned in minutes and I was informed a future update will allow manual entry's to be synced.

My big issue is the Aeris software... No luck getting the USB drivers to work. No errors when installed but when I connect the cable it does not activate. Bluetooth also will not work. My Asus windows 8 laptop has bluetooth and when pairing the A300 shows connected but the laptop does not finalize.


My questions... Are their some step by step install instructions? The website links/navigation on the software page does not work intuitively. Also, while I was trying the USB connection the battery died. Seemed sudden and suspect.

any help is appreciated.

---------- Post added August 29th, 2014 at 04:00 PM ----------

Spoke with Neil at Aeris. Had to do the windows 8 work around a link to I hope is available somewhere. I was sent a word file.


Basically you restart windows 8 to allow unsigned drivers. Then once rebooted you start the aeris software, then select drivers/install USB drivers from the menu. I did that with the dive computer connected by USB and it connected once complete.
 
Tested in a pool today, connects to tank transmitter with no issue. Just very very hard to read in bright light, even when I cupped the screen. Set brightness to 100%, still hard to read.

in both normal and gauge the easiest thing to read are the words normal and gauge. Wish the big letters were tank pressure.
 
If anyone has been reading this thread knows, I have put a lot of time and effort into fixing my AERIS A300 CS and DiverLog Software.

I have worked with PelagicNet the software developers. I have had online sessions with their techs and programmers.

I am now on vacation in Belize. I have put some real world test on this AERIS A300 CS dive computer.

When I synced the Dive Computer up with the DiverLog App for Mac is when I noticed there is a real problem.

First I would like to say that the battery issue is a real pain in the ass. When I got to Belize and setup to do the first dive, the computer would not go on. So I changed the battery and it started up fine. I put on logged 5 dives and 9 free dives and the battery is dead again.

So look at the attached image and tell me if their isn't a issue with this dive computer. All I can say is that I'm am glad I brought a back up, because I cannot trust the AERIS A300 CS.

When I return to the states I am going to return this POS, and exchange it for something that I can trust.
y7aqy6u2.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When you change the Diverlog display settings to show tank pressure for this dive shown above. Does it show your tank pressure as bouncing back and forth to 3840psi?
 
When you change the Diverlog display settings to show tank pressure for this dive shown above. Does it show your tank pressure as bouncing back and forth to 3840psi?

Yes, it goes from Zero - to whatever the pressure in the tank might show, and anywhere in-between. It's a real drag, but out of the 20 or so dives I have made, only about 15-20% are accurate.
 
This is an issue with the software, not the A300 CS. I've been told that a beta version to correct the issue has been provided - has it resolved the issue?


So does the error only occur when downloading data from the a300cs, because it does not happen with my OC1

---------- Post added September 3rd, 2014 at 06:55 PM ----------

I also noticed another problem today. I added a second dive log in the DiverLog program for my wife. I tried to add her A300cs in but it says there is already an a300 existing and will not add the new one. Is there some restriction as to how many of each type of computer you can add. I have two under my "Log" the a300cs and the OC1, but you cant add another a300 to her log or mine.

---------- Post added September 3rd, 2014 at 06:57 PM ----------

I just noticed that the 3840 psi is exactly three times the last known "actual correct" pressure in the tank. so it is bouncing between the actual pressure and three times the pressure
 
Can anybody tell me which kind of protection does have the screen ? Is it made by gorilla-glass or something like that, or it is scratch prone as the major part of the others ? I tested the Uemis SDA, and I can say it has a very good scratch-proof display, but it is one of the few which has a real scratch-proof display. I wouldn't spend more than 1K $ for something that is damaged at the first contact with any kind of object under or out of water...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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