Article: Is the Dive Watch Dead?

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I started off with a Seiko 6105 I bought new in '72 before computers were around. I continued to wear it til the strap fell off and then started buying citizen BN000's and a BN0151 that I've used for time keeping because my Oceanic NX180 computer was difficult to access the time. (I also have a Seiko SKX007 that I like, but it cannot maintain the precision of the solar quartz Citizens.) I now have a new computer that proudly displays the time, but I continue to wear a watch on my right wrist just because I like the analog display and watches in general.

For anyone who's interested, Alba, a division of Seiko, offers a real titanium wrist watch for the Japanese market that is a great watch and a fantastic value at $95.
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I have an original Casio G-Shock that my log book shows I purchased in 1987. It is a DW5600, and still keeps great time. It dove with me a few weeks ago and did fine. However, the back-light doesn't work well. I'm afraid if I try to put a new battery in it, it will die. I guess I'll just shine my light on it if I need to see the screen in the dark.
 
I've got to say that my main use of my dive watch is to assure I get to the boat on time.
 
Those Seiko dive watches are classic. I have the SKX173 which is basically an SKX007 with rectangular hour markings. I do dive with it but I should get a different band. I do like the Citizen BN0150 as well. Both these lines are good looking and robust.
 
For me the dive watch is very much alive. I've never gone without one and I've never had one leak. You can't get a better backup to your computer than a watch and tables. I'm surprised to hear people talking about how their watch leaked. Human error. You need a screw down crown and it must be screwed down tight for starters. When putting the back of the case on, such as after replacing a battery, you must be very careful. It is very easy to have the very thin o-ring move out of place without knowing it. They can also get stretched easily. You also need to know the depth ratings.

The depth ratings for watches are different than dive computers. My Scubapro Meridian computer is rated for 120 meters but a watch rated for 120 meters should never be used to dive. Common knowledge in the watch industry is it must be rated 200 meters or more to dive with. 100 meters is for swimming only.

My current watch is a Hamilton Navy Frogman but before that I used an automatic Seiko diver for 20 years. Took a beating in many countries around the world and kept on going. I still have it, it still runs, still doesn't leak, still has lume that you can see from outer space, but is now retired. I had a Rolex Submariner at one time but I wasn't impressed so I sold it. My Hamilton Frogman is every bit as nice for a fraction of the price. If you use a watch like a G-Shock you should never push the buttons under water. My old G-Shock says right in the manual "do not push buttons under water". So you can't use any function other than looking at the time. No stop watch.

As far as accuracy. Yes any cheap quartz watch will be more accurate than an automatic of any price. But for some of us it's not about ultimate accuracy. It's about style, and class, and the mechanical marvel on your wrist. Some watches can have hundreds of tiny gears, springs, wheels, etc in that little case all smoothly humming away. That's impressive craftsmanship. Three dollars worth of circuits and an LCD screen inside a plastic case isn't exactly craftsmanship. But it is functional.
 
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