Atomic Cobalt 2 - buttons, magnets, reed switches

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

ronhenry

New
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Australia
# of dives
1000 - 2499
I have 2 Atomic Cobalt 2 Dive Computers where the up button does not work.

I have tried white, red and black magnets to no avail.

One of the computers has never been used underwater, and was working fine until the other week, then suddenly both up & down buttons stopped working. I managed to get the down button working again by substituting magnets, but not the up button which is used for gas switching. If the top hard cover is off, and I pull back the soft magnet holder with any magnet in it, then push it down, it will usually work, but this is not possible once the hard cover is on.

Huish seem to have abandoned this product. They did supply me with the incorrect name of an Australian distributor, along with an incorrect web address, (one letter missing in both cases) but a correct street address. However, that company was not interested at all.

I live in Australia.

Is there anyone who would know how to fix this computer in any country?

Otherwise, would you please provide me with the specifications of the 3 color magnets, and the reed switches, and the best way of opening & sealing the computer.

I was thinking of getting someone to solder in a new reed switch, or perhaps a solid state Crocus Magnetic Switch, or similar.

I have found the Atomic Cobalt to be an excellent dive computer, very easy to navigate, and suited to the type of diving I do.

Thank you for all the support you have given to Atomic Cobalt dive computer owners over the years on scubaboard.
 
We can fix this here. We're not in the business of repairs, but we do try whenever possible to help out Cobalt users. And you are correct, at least from what I hear, that Huish is no longer providing service for Cobalts. Since you have tried all the magnet strengths, it sounds very much as if the reed switches themselves are failing. It's not a big job to solder on new ones, but there are a few things to look out for and it helps to have done it before. Of course, shipping is a big issue, and if you prefer to try to do it there I could attempt to walk someone through it. The parts themselves are readily available. But I think the best solution is to send it to us for servicing.

I will message you with shipping info if you decide to go that route.

Ron
 
Yes I would like you to fix my Cobalt 2 computers.
 
I wish I would have known that this was doable. The down button on my wife's Cobalt 2 finally died (the up button had not worked for a couple of years ago). I had tried buying new magnets and assumed it was the switch. As long as one of the up or down buttons continued to work we didn't have any issues, but after the second one went...we didn't have a lot of options. Support told me that due to supply chain issues and getting the reed switches they were no longer fixing them.

Atomic offered the trade-up deal, and we went ahead and did it but also not really wanting any of their options. (went with a ppx since we both run teric's, and wanted to stick with a console).

RonR - do you think at some point you could post a video on how to fix the reed switches? We still have two cobalt 2's which are both functioning perfectly currently but i'd much rather repair the switches in the future vs getting rid of them. Since they've stopped support that marks the 2nd cobalt we've lost due to the reed switch issue. Over the years we had moved away from cobalt 1's to the cobalt 2's and we had four of them.
 
I wish I would have known that this was doable. The down button on my wife's Cobalt 2 finally died (the up button had not worked for a couple of years ago). I had tried buying new magnets and assumed it was the switch. As long as one of the up or down buttons continued to work we didn't have any issues, but after the second one went...we didn't have a lot of options. Support told me that due to supply chain issues and getting the reed switches they were no longer fixing them.

Atomic offered the trade-up deal, and we went ahead and did it but also not really wanting any of their options. (went with a ppx since we both run teric's, and wanted to stick with a console).

RonR - do you think at some point you could post a video on how to fix the reed switches? We still have two cobalt 2's which are both functioning perfectly currently but i'd much rather repair the switches in the future vs getting rid of them. Since they've stopped support that marks the 2nd cobalt we've lost due to the reed switch issue. Over the years we had moved away from cobalt 1's to the cobalt 2's and we had four of them.
Yes, we started this page just to provide help with issues like this.

There has never been an issue with lack of availability for the reed switches, they are a very common part. Supply chain for microprocessors and other chips has been another story... My guess is that Huish had a large number of PPX they wanted to sell.

While someone with good electronics soldering skills and the right equipment (a microscope or good lenses is pretty important) could replace the reed switches, I'm hesitant to post any repair videos / instructions for operations involving opening the case- lens connection, knowing that there would be inevitable problems. There are a few places where it really helps to have done this many times before, and to know what other things to look for. As time goes on I'll consider this, though. Probably it would be worth publishing the process. As of now, we are more than willing to help out Cobalt users with these issues.

Ron
 
Thanks Ron! I didn't know you'd actually let us send one into you, or I would have been happy to do that and paid to get those switches done. I only ask about self-repair because I have a good friend who is into a lot of robotics stuff and he's probably the only person I know (locally) that I'd trust to do the repair and to take something like that on.

You've been a great asset for all of us cobalt users and I appreciate all the time you've spent to help me with questions over the years. I look forward to seeing your next project too :)

I'll be sure to reach out if we have another issue with one of our cobalts that we may have had to typically rma one for.
 
Hi Ron,
I see you have been able to help people; hope you can do the same for me.
Long time atomic customer
I am having an issue with my Cobalt 2.
Everything works, except for the enter button *>
Suppose if it were the up or down button, it wouldn’t be as bad since I could just continue pressing up till it hit down, or pressing down until it was up, but when the enter button (or left escape button) doesn’t work, then pretty much I can’t do anything. Can’t even see or change how much Nitrox is in my tank. In fact the only way I can even turn it on is to plug it in or stick it underwater. But then what...
I actually had this same problem once before on the original cobalt computer. At the time I was in Florida. Took it to Pura Vida divers and they fixed it all in about 10 min. But they had the parts.
I would send the computer to you, but I’m out of the country right now. Do you have any type of a kit that replaces the push buttons with new magnets that you can send me that I can do myself.
I can have you send it to my son's house in Florida. He’ll be visiting me in a few weeks. Let me know, thanks!
 
Hi Ron,
I see you have been able to help people; hope you can do the same for me.
Long time atomic customer
I am having an issue with my Cobalt 2.
Everything works, except for the enter button *>
Suppose if it were the up or down button, it wouldn’t be as bad since I could just continue pressing up till it hit down, or pressing down until it was up, but when the enter button (or left escape button) doesn’t work, then pretty much I can’t do anything. Can’t even see or change how much Nitrox is in my tank. In fact the only way I can even turn it on is to plug it in or stick it underwater. But then what...
I actually had this same problem once before on the original cobalt computer. At the time I was in Florida. Took it to Pura Vida divers and they fixed it all in about 10 min. But they had the parts.
I would send the computer to you, but I’m out of the country right now. Do you have any type of a kit that replaces the push buttons with new magnets that you can send me that I can do myself.
I can have you send it to my son's house in Florida. He’ll be visiting me in a few weeks. Let me know, thanks!

Hopefully, it's just a magnet you need, I last ordered from here and got them quickly. I stocked up on a few packs just in case.

 
Hopefully, it's just a magnet you need, I last ordered from here and got them quickly. I stocked up on a few packs just in case.

Hey Ron, I have a cobalt 2 new out of the box never used and the up arrow doesn’t work. I am hoping it is just the magnets. I looked on the website provided for magnet kit but they are out of stock. Is there any place to get the magnets?
 
Hey Ron, I have a cobalt 2 new out of the box never used and the up arrow doesn’t work. I am hoping it is just the magnets. I looked on the website provided for magnet kit but they are out of stock. Is there any place to get the magnets?
My suggestion would be to pop off the lid to expose the keypad and try it, or one of the other magnets in the keypad. If it's never been used it's very unlikely the magnets have become corroded. Sometimes the keypads can become stuck down, this might be the case if it's been sitting for a long time. Sometimes just getting things wet unsticks the keypad.

Here are instructions for removing the cover- this won't compromise the watertightness of the Cobalt:

Let me know the color of the magnets in that position- you can try using one of the other position magnets and see if that works. It may be that just the act of removing the keypad and resetting it frees up things.

Ron
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom