Auto TTL, is it worth the price?

[ccredifo]

I'm looking at getting a new camera, housing, and strobes. I'm either going to get a Canon G9 or it's replacement (G10 - which should be announced in the next month or so).

The Auto TTL feature (where the strobes automatically determine how much power to use) has to be the nicest feature of all time. You no longer have to manually change the power settings before each picture.

Auto TTL requires the housing and strobes must be compatible. For example, to use the Auto TTL feature the Canon G9 Ikelite housing requires Ikelite strobes. If you use Inon strobes with the Ikelite housing you're stuck in Manual mode.

Inon strobes are great but they don't make an AD Mount for the G9. I'm waiting to see if Inon will make an AD Mount for the G10.

For users that have Auto TTL, how much has it changed your picture taking? Is it worth the price?

Thx, Chris

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

I have been taking underwater pictures since the early nineties, starting with a Nikonus V. When I upgraded to Ikelite SS 200 in '99 (from Nikonus SB-101), I had the ability to use "real" ttl, but I was already doing great with manual settings. Only in my Photo Pro course in Key Largo have I used ttl, again with that Nikonus V / SS 200 set up.

As I understand it, you need ~2/3 of the image to reflect back in order for ttl to "get it right." This means that macro and "wall" shots are easy with properly functioning ttl. I do a lot of wide angle non wall shooting, so I never took to the ttl thing. Now, with the image available to review just seconds after taking it, I can make more educated manual adjustments during the dive. Also, If I use a little less than optimal light for the subject I can bump the brightness in Photoshop.

As far as changing settings before every shot, I have three or four MyMode settings and use 1/8 or 1/4 power on the strobe. It is not unlikely for me to leave the system on MyMode 1 at 1/8 power for nearly every shot, but changing MyModes and power setting is part of the fun for me; I get to chose the mood of my image rather than let a chip chose.

Usually, there are bright areas in the periphery of my shots; my goal is to not over-expose those brights. I find manual settings and often manual strobe placement (well behind the plane of the lens) gives me great images. It's hard for me to fix something that's not broken.

Many with ttl capable gear do not use ttl much. Also, with the new Ike DS 160, why are you worrying about INON strobes?

 

[ccredifo]

DS-160s are $850/pop! The Inon D-2000's are $540, Z-240 are $750. Is there that much of a difference between Inons and Ikelites?

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

Taking a look at Guide #'s; the INON D-2000 is 20, Z-240 is 24, Ike DS51 is 28, DS125 is 32, DS160 is 38. In other words, the INONs put out less light than the Ike DS-51. The full power recycle time is listed as similar; 1.8 sec for D-2000, 1.7 for Z-240, 1.5 for DS160. The fact is the Ike puts out nearly as much light at 1/2 power and recycle is likely less than a sec. I can have my SS200 in 1/4 power and fire the strobe on all 4 shots of sequential (4 shots less than 3 sec).

The INON's use 2 AA batteries, so the modeling light is just that. The Ike rechargeable is much bigger so the modeling light can double as your primary dive light at night. With my SS200 I can do an entire 60 minute night dive AND take 70+ images with just the strobe for light.

I bought my SS200 9 years ago and it still performs like it did the first dive. I've used it with every camera I've owned since then, and as my primary night dive light on every night dive since then. I spent ~$1200 on the Photo Case, and the money was more than well spent!

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

Also, if you get the Ike housing you are using "wired" ttl, as opposed to INON's fiber optics ttl (IIRC).

 

[alcina]

The Inon's take 4AAs, not two I love my Inon 240s.

They can be hard wired or take fibre optic, depending on your housing and your camera.

You can't go wrong with the Ike's or the Inons, imho.

I like Inon coz they are nice and small, give me lots of control with manual settings - which I use all the time, have the option of ttl - which I never use, but many do, and last forever on a set of AAs.

 

[bobf]

Taking a look at Guide #'s; the INON D-2000 is 20, Z-240 is 24, Ike DS51 is 28, DS125 is 32, DS160 is 38. In other words, the INONs put out less light than the Ike DS-51. The full power recycle time is listed as similar; 1.8 sec for D-2000, 1.7 for Z-240, 1.5 for DS160..............

some of the guide number specs you listed were measured in meters, others in feet, some above water..........and others below...........

the Strobefinder attempts to make comparing strobe data easier.........one way by listing all manufacturer supplied data, including topside guide numbers, in meters.........some mfg's opt not to supply underwater guide numbers.......for various reasons...........if they do.........they're listed.............

You may find the Strobefinder by following this link:

Underwater Strobe Comparison Guide - Digital Diver Network

.........click on any of the 60+ underwater strobes listed and compare specs, supplied by the manufacturer, side by side................

btw.......when discussing guide numbers........GN28 represents twice as much light as GN20.........and GN20 is twice as much as GN14............

hth,
b

 

[Wisnu]

I use G9 with Inon D2000 type 3 + cheap 10bar FO cable. The sTTL and Auto work well and very usefull at the begining.
Later, I learn manual give more flexibility and not difficult at all. Since then, never use the sTTL.

Now I am considering Epoque DS230 - no TTL but more power and much cheaper almost half Inon D2000; unless s2000 come with attractive price.

 

[ccredifo]

Wisnu,

Great feedback. Which housing are you using? I thought about the Canon housing but Inon doesn't make an AD Mount, therefore no S-TTL support.

 

[Wisnu]

Chris
I use canon housing wpdc-21; the fo is sticked into thehousing w/ velcro. To minimize backscatter, I attach an exposed negative film onto camera flash instead of Inon photo clear system. Cheap and work well.
I also use FIT 67 mm adapter to use makro lenses UCL165M67. The following picture taken by my 13 years ol daughter using that set-up w/ manual

and here Ap w/ sTTL

Cheers