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Bolts too short - loosen isolator before switching?

Discussion in 'Tanks, Valves & Bands' started by MrVegas, Apr 11, 2021.

  1. MrVegas

    MrVegas Contributor

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Ohio
    246
    149
    Well, getting ready to take brand new doubles out for a spin, but in check setup, the bolts are too short and the wing nut won't take a thread. If I just put new bolts in, do I loosen the manifold first, or if I only do one bolt at a time, do I just leave it alone?
     
  2. _Ralph

    _Ralph Contributor

    678
    317
    Is there pressure in the system?

    Drain the tanks, replace one bolt at a time, keep the 11" spacing between bolts.

    Also, is there 'excess' bolt behind the bands that you can just slide (via nuts) forward to mate with your backplate?

    _R
     
  3. MrVegas

    MrVegas Contributor

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Ohio
    246
    149
    You guys are fast -- I love scubaboard.

    Yes, the tanks are full. Unfortunately, it looks like the bolts were screwed in all the way and then cut (probably with bolt cutters). Thus, there is no extra bolt to push through. I have a Dive Rite back plate, maybe the "V" is a little shallower than what the shop was expecting.

    If it's necessary to drain the tanks, I'll call it a day and take it back to the shop (with my setup this time). Ugh . . . such a little thing. Just an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch might have been enough. I suppose I'm glad I caught it in the basement instead of at the dive site.
     
  4. grf88

    grf88 ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Markham, Ontario
    2,193
    1,887
    If I was concerned about loosening the band without draining the tank I would take a suitable size hose clamp and keep the band compressed with that while I changed the bolts.
     
    Lostdiver71 likes this.
  5. MrVegas

    MrVegas Contributor

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Ohio
    246
    149
    That's a good idea. Thanks!
     
  6. -JD-

    -JD- Eclecticist ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Greater Philadelphia, PA
    1,059
    737
    Since you are replacing the threaded rod, do yourself a favor and pick up a couple of extra nuts and lock washers.

    I've set mine up like this so I don't have to futz with the tweaking the length every year when they are VIPped:

    Wingnut-plate ---- nut-band-nut-------band-nut (sorry, not in the position to take a picture ATM)

    The left pair of nuts sets the depth on the plate side. Loosen just the right nut to release the band for disassembly.


    ETA: FWIW, my Dive Rite plate is a little flatter than my OMS
     
  7. MrVegas

    MrVegas Contributor

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Ohio
    246
    149
    That's good to know and thanks to everyone for the tips. I'm guessing they just cut the bolts to a standard plate depth -- I should have brought my own gear in for them to check. Lesson learned there.
     
  8. Tracy

    Tracy Tech Instructor / Captain ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: I just don't log dives
    Location: Livonia, MI
    596
    300
    Bolts should be just below flush with the top of the tanks if you lay a straight edge across the bands.
     
    -JD- likes this.
  9. -JD-

    -JD- Eclecticist ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Greater Philadelphia, PA
    1,059
    737
    Just to clarify, my suggestion only will work with threaded rod, not bolts.

    On the plus side, threaded rod with a little extra length gives you some adjustability.
     
  10. MrVegas

    MrVegas Contributor

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Ohio
    246
    149
    That's pretty close to where they are. The plate itself will go on the doubles without the wing, although there is not a lot of extra thread. Add the wing, and then the nuts won't go on. Maybe I'm missing something simple. The wing is a Dive Rite Rec XT (LP85s). Total length of bolts from end to end is about 4.25 inches.
     

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