Brazil Diving - Recife and Fernando De Noronha

[eotm]

Going on a trip to Brazil during the last 2 weeks of January (trying to hit the ebb of tourist season in between New Year's Eve and Carnival). Will be in Rio and Sao Paulo, but also trying to get up to do some warm water diving in Recife and Fernando de Noronha.

Have a couple questions:
1) How does one get to Fernando de Noronha? Appears only option is a GOL flight from Recife, which is $500 at least. Can I take a boat? Are there liveaboard boats leaving from Recife that go to Fernando de Noronha and dive there?
2) How does diving work? Mostly boats it looks like, but do people recommend dayboats or liveaboards (heard the hotels are pricey)? Also, sounds like current can get strong and water can get choppy - how bad is it really in January and what level of experience is required to cope?
3) If I don't go to Fernando de Noronha, how is Recife diving? Heard all wrecks no reefs, but some of them sound like they are shallow and can be done with and AOW. I am not interested in the Discover TEK wreck that everyone seems to do, as I'm barely over the 50 logged dives threshold?
4) Is there another warm-water dive destination in Brazil that is more accessible that you feel would be more appropriate for me?

Most likely will be solo for the diving part of this trip and I don't speak Portuguese. In my 20s and looking to be social when I'm not diving, to the extent possible given language barrier and safety concerns.

 

[DocVikingo]

Hi eotm,

Q.1) How does one get to Fernando de Noronha? Appears only option is a GOL flight from Recife, which is $500 at least. Can I take a boat? Are there liveaboard boats leaving from Recife that go to Fernando de Noronha and dive there?

A.1) Unless you can arrange for & afford a private boat or chartered yacht, you can't do a diving vacation to FDN by boat; there are no ferries or the like & there are no liveaboards dedicated to diving serving the area. There are direct domestic flights daily to FDN from Rio, Recife, Natal, São Paulo, Belo Horizonte, Salvador da Bahia & several other cities.

Q. 2) How does diving work? Mostly boats it looks like, but do people recommend dayboats or liveaboards (heard the hotels are pricey)? Also, sounds like current can get strong and water can get choppy - how bad is it really in January and what level of experience is required to cope?

A.2) As was said above, there are no liveaboards. There are limited tourist quarters on the island, so they do tend to be somewhat pricey, and moreso if you're going single supplement, but there certainly are affordable rooms to be had. Look into available pousadas, which are small inns, or search for rooms in private residences. Pousada Solar dos Ventos used to be reasonable.

Diving conditions & associated recommended experience level vary by day & site, but IMHO FDN is a questionable destination for the average diver with "barely over the 50 logged dives." There indeed can be significant chop, surge & current, and some of the sites are quite deep. You might want to go with an op that can get you on a beginner's boat.

Q. 3) If I don't go to Fernando de Noronha, how is Recife diving? Heard all wrecks no reefs, but some of them sound like they are shallow and can be done with and AOW.

A.3.) On balance, dive conditions in Recife are more comfortable for the new diver than in FDN. Yes, it is primarily wreck diving, but lots of wrecks usually means reefs are about. However, none of Brazil has reefs that resemble the better of the Caribbean. The u/w topography tends to be more rocky, kind of like Hawaii. Finally, opportunities for socializing are more abundant in Recife than in FND.

Responsive?

Cheers,

DocVikingo

 

[Nirvana]

Hello eotm,

I have dived in Recife and Maceió (in Alagoas, a neighboring state to Pernambuco, where Recife is) and I most definitely would recommend you dive there if you have the chance. I have never been to Fernando de Noronha, though, so I can't say much about it.

Diving in Recife is mostly about wrecks, of which there are many in the area, of many different sizes and at many different depths. They can be found from 15m to almost 60m (50ft to 200ft) and range from very small boats that you can see entirely in about 2 minutes to ships more than 100m (330ft) long. The visibility is generally excellent (30m /100ft), though it must be said that the deeper wrecks (those at 25m / 80ft or more) tend to have clearer water. One thing that all those wrecks have in common is that they are all teeming with life. You almost have to fight with the schools of fish that inhabit them to go around the wreck.

About the difficulty of the dives, I wouldn't be too concerned. When I went there at the beginning of the year, I had approximately the same number of dives as you (a little over 50) and I coped very well with the dive conditions. Yes, there is constantly a moderate current (strong enough to keep me, at least, from progressing against it), but the boat will pick you up in case you miss the line.

You can dive in other regions of Brazil, but the water conditions will most certainly not be as pleasant those you will find in the Northeastern coast. Living in Rio de Janeiro, I frequently dive around here, but, even though it is still very enjoyable, it is not the same thing. The water is considerably colder (typically 18ºC - 21ºC / 65ºF - 70ºF) and murkier (5m - 10m / 15ft - 30ft vis). The diving is much easier, however, consisting primarily of shallow reefs in very call waters. Specially popular for diving are the towns of Arraial do Cabo, Cabo Frio and Angra dos Reis, all within 150km (100mi) of Rio de Janeiro. There are even some diving possibilities in Rio de Janeiro itself.

Finally, going back to diving in the Northeast, there are a few liveaboards that operate there (I will be in one next January, by the way), and some do go to Fernando de Noronha. Their routes change from time to time, however, and I can't say what will be available.

I don't know the dive operators in Recife, apart the one I will be diving with, but if you want recommendations on some around Rio de Janeiro, I can provide them. I can also show you some photos of diving in Recife and in the Rio area.

I hope you enjoy your time here in Brazil.

 

[DocVikingo]

Hello eotm,Finally, going back to diving in the Northeast, there are a few liveaboards that operate there (I will be in one next January, by the way), and some do go to Fernando de Noronha. Their routes change from time to time, however, and I can't say what will be available.

Hi Nirvana,

And these are dedicated dive liveaboards and not just general liveaboards that do sailing trips, snorkeling, etc., along with some scuba?

Can you supply any names?

Thanks,

DocVikingo

 

[Nirvana]

DocVikingo,

There is a company called Atlantis that operates there with two ships: Enterprise and Voyager. They are both, as far as I know, dedicated to diving activities. I can tell you for certain that the Voyager is operating as a live aboard dive boat, as I will be on it early next year on a route from Maceió to Recife. I don't know where the Enterprise is or what kind of trips it is doing right now.

The downside, though, is that the boat that is for certain a live aboard now, the Voyager, is not incredibly comfortable. It is not a yacht, but a catamaran, and there internal space is really minimal.

In spite of the vessel not being ideal in terms of comfort, I have found the diving there really worth it, and would recommend the experience.

 

[DocVikingo]

DocVikingo, There is a company called Atlantis that operates there with two ships: Enterprise and Voyager. They are both, as far as I know, dedicated to diving activities. I can tell you for certain that the Voyager is operating as a live aboard dive boat, as I will be on it early next year on a route from Maceió to Recife. I don't know where the Enterprise is or what kind of trips it is doing right now.

Thanks, Nirvana.

Here are the boats, although I do not see specific itineraries --> Google Translate

Have a blast & please give us a trip report when you get back.

Cheers,

DocV

 

[eotm]

Just booked (Recife only, will hold off on the island). Now I just need to find a good dive op.

 

[Nirvana]

I have only dived in Recife in a Atlantis' live aboard. The only dive op I can recommend, then, is their partner, Aquáticos Dive Center (Aquáticos).

I am sure you will enjoy your dives. Have fun there!

 

[chillyinCanada]

I've wondered into this thread because I wanted dive info on FdN. Wreck diving is not my preference and FdN looks like a lovely island. DocV has suggested that limited experience divers may not enjoy diving at FdN, but what of those more experienced? Is it worth a trip? (always looking for new destinations that include diving)

 

[eotm]

Sorry to bump, but if going to FdN I would book this week. Does anyone else have a strong opinion on experience level needed to dive? I mean if the current is too strong, I can always skip a dive, and I would assume boats pick sites based on conditions? As far as depth, I'm assuming many people diving will be capped at 100ft. Honestly I'm more worried about language barriers and not having a buddy. Will probably look into booking via Atlantis - are most divers on that boat rec or is it a tek boat that will take rec divers?

Looks like both the Voyager and the Enterprise are running as liveaboards, and the Enterprise (takes 24) seems large enough to be comfortable (I mean, as long as I'm not sleeping on an open deck).