Can Light Cord Route

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Rick Inman

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My first HID can light will arrive Friday.

I've read some older posts of cord routing (over/under debate), but I'm looking for a detailed routing description, including the order of donning the kit. In other words, long hose wrapped around, then light cord goes underneath LH and clipped off to right D ring, or whatever.

Second of all, being new with the light, what don't I know that I'll need to look out for?
 
When I rig up, I clip off the SPG, long hose, and light head before I put anything on. Then I slip into my rig and buckle up the waist band and crotch strap.

Next I put the backup around my neck and route my long hose under the can, then re-clip the long hose. If I'm planning on not deploying the light immediately upon getting in the water, I'll shove a loop of it in the waistband UNDER the long hose.

At this point I'm pretty much all set to get in the water once I deploy my long hose and make sure everything is routed correctly. I unclip the long hose and shove it in my mouth when I'm ready to start breathing from it, and turn on the light and unclip the head when I'm ready to use it. Since I keep the light cord OVER the long hose, I just unclip it and put it in my left hand to use.

Just keep on top of your pre-dive checks and modified S-drills to make sure everything is routed where it needs to be.

There's really nothing all that special to it. Just dive with it.
 
The new 'approved' method, according to JJ on Quest, is to run the light cord over the long hose (outside of your body). The argument is this...if you run it over, you add a small and non-critical step to a simplify a rare event (gas sharing), but eliminate the possibility of trapping the long hose and preventing deployment when the light is clipped off. Running the light cord under potentially can trap the long hose and cause you to not be able to get gas to an OOG diver when the light is clipped off, but simplifies the gas sharing process itself when the light is still deployed. Under can end up with a total CF and potentially a dead buddy, while over just adds one small step to an air share, which should be practiced anyhow.

When I gear up, the light actually remains clipped off until I get in the water. I just make sure it is clear of everything and tucked in before I gear up and jump in.

Donning order for me is, drysuit hose FIRST (don't want to trap that long hose!), hood, bungeed backup, then finally the long hose...at each step I make sure I haven't tangled any hoses or wrapped something under the harness.
 
Hey Rick,

It may take a few dives to get some of the other requirements squared away.

First, the light bulbs are fragile. Keep the lighthead in a beer cushie at all times when its not in the water or you're actually rinsing it. Don't remove the beer cushie until you stand up to head to the stern. All sorts of weird crap can smack your lighthead at the last minute.

Second, always jump in the water with the head clipped off. Don't hold it in your hand unless you absolutely have to. You never know what you might have to deal with, and its a PITA if you have some other issues upon entry. Before you descend, click on the switch, check the head to ensure you have ignition, and then get your other stuff, scooter, deco bottles, etc. all squared away...then unclip the head LAST. It's a good idea to do bubble checks and an S-Drill, even though its redundant, because in the rush to gear up someone may have inadvertantly overlooked something.

Third, like the other guys said, its important to practice with the thing in the water. Its normal to keep it in your left hand. The rationale is that if you had to offer your primary reg to someone you don't want to blind them simultaneously. But in an overhead environment, when running the reel, etc., in reality you'll be switching it from hand to hand (unless you're scootering) to pull and glide or negotiate obstacles, etc. If you hold it in your right hand, wrap the cord around your right arm to prevent it from becoming an entanglement or snag hazard.

If you suddenly need both hands, esp in an overhead environment, don't flail around with it - its easy to break the bulb. Instead, drape the damned thing over your neck - its fast and effective, do what you need to with both hands, then redeploy it.

Finally, (and this is debatable so take it for what its worth) never turn the thing off until you're ready to get back onto the boat. You'll endure all sorts of whining from buddies when you clip off the lighthead during the ascent. But heres the deal: sometimes when you turn them off they don't immediately turn on again. And sometimes, even on the ascent, things have an annoying habit of going seriously wrong. Like current, getting swept away, etc. Guys have had serious problems and couldn't signal their buddies, 'cause they turned off their lights and couldn't get them back on fast enough to be effective when they needed to signal for an emergency. So leave it on until you're ready to exit the water. The thing will become your primary means of communication and you need to be able to communicate immediately when a sudden problem develops.

FWIW. YMMV.
 
Doc Intrepid:
Hey Rick,

It may take a few dives to get some of the other requirements squared away.

First, the light bulbs are fragile. Keep the lighthead in a beer cushie at all times when its not in the water or you're actually rinsing it. Don't remove the beer cushie until you stand up to head to the stern. All sorts of weird crap can smack your lighthead at the last minute.

Second, always jump in the water with the head clipped off. Don't hold it in your hand unless you absolutely have to. You never know what you might have to deal with, and its a PITA if you have some other issues upon entry. Before you descend, click on the switch, check the head to ensure you have ignition, and then get your other stuff, scooter, deco bottles, etc. all squared away...then unclip the head LAST. It's a good idea to do bubble checks and an S-Drill, even though its redundant, because in the rush to gear up someone may have inadvertantly overlooked something.

Third, like the other guys said, its important to practice with the thing in the water. Its normal to keep it in your left hand. The rationale is that if you had to offer your primary reg to someone you don't want to blind them simultaneously. But in an overhead environment, when running the reel, etc., in reality you'll be switching it from hand to hand (unless you're scootering) to pull and glide or negotiate obstacles, etc. If you hold it in your right hand, wrap the cord around your right arm to prevent it from becoming an entanglement or snag hazard.

If you suddenly need both hands, esp in an overhead environment, don't flail around with it - its easy to break the bulb. Instead, drape the damned thing over your neck - its fast and effective, do what you need to with both hands, then redeploy it.

Finally, (and this is debatable so take it for what its worth) never turn the thing off until you're ready to get back onto the boat. You'll endure all sorts of whining from buddies when you clip off the lighthead during the ascent. But heres the deal: sometimes when you turn them off they don't immediately turn on again. And sometimes, even on the ascent, things have an annoying habit of going seriously wrong. Like current, getting swept away, etc. Guys have had serious problems and couldn't signal their buddies, 'cause they turned off their lights and couldn't get them back on fast enough to be effective when they needed to signal for an emergency. So leave it on until you're ready to exit the water. The thing will become your primary means of communication and you need to be able to communicate immediately when a sudden problem develops.

FWIW. YMMV.

I always go in with it clipped off. I deploy it on the ascent.

I run it under the hose, as I don't clip if off until just before I hit the swimstep, and don't turn it off until I'm about to doff the rig. The things last for 4+ hours... I'm not gonna turn it off for 5 - 7 minutes at the end of a dive to "save the batt..."

When using wetnotes at night, it gets a little weird. I've started draping it over my neck, so I can both see the wetnotes (while I illuminate the note for my buddy) and I can write. This has been working great. Just drape it over my right shoulder (I'm right handed) and its like reading light.

If you're inflating or managing your BC or adding gas to your suit, put it in your right hand for a moment. That way your light isn't all over the place while you're managing your gas. I just grab it, keep the beam close to where it was, puff or vent away and that's that.

Label your batts. Take your charger if you're doing 3 or 4 dives a day. You can charge these between dives on a long SI without issue.

Loosen the nylon nut when traveling just a bit. The head should move with a a bit of resistance, but not slide about.

Check your Oring. Don't store it with the lid clamped down on the Oring. Don't charge it in the canister (duh...)

Never hot strike (double duh...)

I added the UP critter saver mini-light to the handle of both of mine. It doubles as a gauge illuminator in really, really bad vis. If you're Claudette, you leave it on all the time and dive with a big, bright "L" and we all laugh at you.

That's about it. You're gonna love it. I searched some of my first posts when I got here in 2003, and I was all "what kind of mental patient pays a zillion dollars for a flashlight...?" They've now become the one piece of indespensible equipment I would never consider diving without. Its my fav gear.

---
Ken
 
Doc Intrepid:
Hey Rick,

It may take a few dives to get some of the other requirements squared away.

First, the light bulbs are fragile. Keep the lighthead in a beer cushie at all times when its not in the water or you're actually rinsing it. Don't remove the beer cushie until you stand up to head to the stern. All sorts of weird crap can smack your lighthead at the last minute.

Second, always jump in the water with the head clipped off. Don't hold it in your hand unless you absolutely have to. You never know what you might have to deal with, and its a PITA if you have some other issues upon entry. Before you descend, click on the switch, check the head to ensure you have ignition, and then get your other stuff, scooter, deco bottles, etc. all squared away...then unclip the head LAST. It's a good idea to do bubble checks and an S-Drill, even though its redundant, because in the rush to gear up someone may have inadvertantly overlooked something.

Third, like the other guys said, its important to practice with the thing in the water. Its normal to keep it in your left hand. The rationale is that if you had to offer your primary reg to someone you don't want to blind them simultaneously. But in an overhead environment, when running the reel, etc., in reality you'll be switching it from hand to hand (unless you're scootering) to pull and glide or negotiate obstacles, etc. If you hold it in your right hand, wrap the cord around your right arm to prevent it from becoming an entanglement or snag hazard.

If you suddenly need both hands, esp in an overhead environment, don't flail around with it - its easy to break the bulb. Instead, drape the damned thing over your neck - its fast and effective, do what you need to with both hands, then redeploy it.

Finally, (and this is debatable so take it for what its worth) never turn the thing off until you're ready to get back onto the boat. You'll endure all sorts of whining from buddies when you clip off the lighthead during the ascent. But heres the deal: sometimes when you turn them off they don't immediately turn on again. And sometimes, even on the ascent, things have an annoying habit of going seriously wrong. Like current, getting swept away, etc. Guys have had serious problems and couldn't signal their buddies, 'cause they turned off their lights and couldn't get them back on fast enough to be effective when they needed to signal for an emergency. So leave it on until you're ready to exit the water. The thing will become your primary means of communication and you need to be able to communicate immediately when a sudden problem develops.

FWIW. YMMV
.
Thanks jonnythan, Soggy, Ken!

Good stuff Doc. Thanks!

The only thing, about the bulb...According to Barry Miller (Salvo), the Brightstar bulb is almost indestructible. I donno...
 
Soggy:
The new 'approved' method, according to JJ on Quest, is to run the light cord over the long hose (outside of your body). The argument is this...if you run it over, you add a small and non-critical step to a simplify a rare event (gas sharing), but eliminate the possibility of trapping the long hose and preventing deployment when the light is clipped off. Running the light cord under potentially can trap the long hose and cause you to not be able to get gas to an OOG diver when the light is clipped off, but simplifies the gas sharing process itself when the light is still deployed. Under can end up with a total CF and potentially a dead buddy, while over just adds one small step to an air share, which should be practiced anyhow.

When I gear up, the light actually remains clipped off until I get in the water. I just make sure it is clear of everything and tucked in before I gear up and jump in.

Donning order for me is, drysuit hose FIRST (don't want to trap that long hose!), hood, bungeed backup, then finally the long hose...at each step I make sure I haven't tangled any hoses or wrapped something under the harness.

I sort of have to take the bait on this one. I have tried routing my light cord both ways: over and under the "long hose." I really don't follow the logic behind putting it over the long hose.

You enter the water with the light clipped off. You deploy the light by slipping it under the long hose. If an gas sharing situation comes up, you deploy the long hose, and you don't have a possible high stress situation that will now also involve dealing with the light cord (which you would by having the light cord over the long hose).

Now, you are not going to be an idiot, and take your light and clip it off without remembering to first pass it under the long hose again. And, when you are going to clip off your light at that point, you are not in a high stress situation like you would be in a gas sharing situation. So, you take a second to remember to pass the light back under the long hose before clipping it to the right d-ring.

Doesn't this sound like it makes better sense?

BTW, I am a capitulating Weenie that deploys the light over the long hose like everyone else. However, I keep thinking about it, and I can't buy the logic proposed. I have tried it both ways, and I just don't think it's a problem to deploy the light under the long hose.
 
The bulb may be indestructible, but that doesn't mean it likes to or even WILL hot strike!

You have a lot of battery in there, don't turn it off needlessly. Every strike takes some of the bulb life away and they can be VERY finicky restriking while hot. Leave it on and clipped off til you're SURE you won't be using it again.
 
Mo2vation:
I always go in with it clipped off. I deploy it on the ascent.

I run it under the hose, as I don't clip if off until just before I hit the swimstep. The things last for 4+ hours... I'm not gonna turn it off for 5 minutes a dive to "save the batt..."

When using wetnotes at night, it gets a little weird. I've started draping it over my neck, so I can both see the wetnotes (while I illuminate the note for my buddy) and I can write.

If you're inflating or managing your BC or adding gas to your suit, put it in your right hand for a moment. That way your light isn't all over the place while you're managing your gas. I just switch grab it, keep the beam close to where it was, puff or vent away and that's that.

Label your batts. Take your charger if you're doing 3 or 4 dives a day. You can charge these between dives on a long SI without issue.

Check your Oring. Don't store it with the lid clamped down on the Oring.

Never hot strike (duh...)

I added the UP critter saver mini-light to the handle of both of mine. It doubles as a gauge illuminator in really, really bad vis.

That's about it. You're gonna love it. I searched some of my first posts when I got here in 2003, and I was all "what kind of mental patient pays a zillion dollars for a flashlight...?" They've now become the one piece of indespensible equipment I would never consider diving without. Its my fav gear.

---
Ken
Two questions:

Hot strike?? Was dat? Turning it off, then back on?

Also, I like to dump air from my BC with the rear dump. When reaching back, do you move the light to the right hand during the dump, or just reach back for a sec with light in hand?
 
Hot striking is trying to turn it back on while the bulb is still warm. This is a no-no. It's bad for the bulb and is likely to not even restrike at all.

Personally I almost always put the light into my right hand when going to dump from the BC, using either deflator. When I'm in front I like having the buddy's light where I can see it.. if it disappears entirely I tend to turn around to check, so I give my buddies the same courtesy.
 
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