Cozumel--on its way back

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joewr

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Hi, Gang!

After being away since just before Wilma, we headed back to Cozumel for two weeks of diving. We have been going there for well over 10 years and have felt that it was the best diving in North America; and we were more than curious about the diving after a year-and-a-half of post-Wilma recovery.

For old Cozumel hands, the damage is evident and dramatic: lots more white sand, the final state of dead coral. Somewhat less color since there is somewhat less coral. However, the sea still abounds with life and the diving is wonderful. The bottom line: Cozumel is well on its way back and is a wonderfully inviting place for divers.

We have dived with several dive shops, but now dive exclusively with Fernando Gonzalez/Manta Raya Divers. He has a sixpack that is immaculate and he is a superb divemaster. Fernando is a graduate marine biologist and can explain nearly everything you will see.

We looked at the diveboats of other shops and I was shocked at the lack of divers compared to past years. It is time to get the word out: the diving on Cozumel is great!

A few other notes are in order. Some of our favorite restaurants have raised prices fairly dramatically. The place we stay has a kitchen and we tend to eat in so restaurant prices do not affect us dramatically. However, if you are staying in a hotel, you are affected. My advice: look at the menu before going in. If you go off the beaten track, you will likely find more affordable meals. Puerta Maya suffered tremendous damage and that has somewhat limited cruise ships. However, for us old Cozumel hands, the town is still overwhelmed by non-diving tourists. And it appears that the piers will be restored. Nuff said...

For some reason I cannot upload the photos I took on this trip just now. I will try to get that sorted out. The highlight of the trip was finding seahorses. The first time we searched for them it took us an hour. Since we were at 35 feet and using Nitrox, we stayed down for another half-hour and enjoyed the experience. We returned the next day and found them more quickly. On the second dive we found 5 of the beautiful critters. However, we were told that there may be as many as 25.

I realize that this is not a detailed report, but my intent was to simply communicate that those of you who have delayed going to Cozumel because of concerns about the quality of the diving that you can shelve those concerns: the diving is great!

joewr:14:
 
We'll be there in a week. Where did you find the seahorses? We saw one at Tormentos once and another at Santa Rosa on a different trip. Our 12 year-old wasn't with us either time, and would really love to see one.
 
Yeah, I was there in April following Wilma and the water was still cloudy from the sand moving thru the channel. This January was much better. Shallow dive areas are coming back, deeper ones weren't hurt much, and the infrastructure on the island was mostly rebuilt quickly and well, with some still being done.
mstevens:
We'll be there in a week. Where did you find the seahorses? We saw one at Tormentos once and another at Santa Rosa on a different trip. Our 12 year-old wasn't with us either time, and would really love to see one.
I never have seen one there, but I miss a lot of stuff I'm sure. Seahorses are more common in shallows with plants they can hide in, hold onto, with more tiny life to eat - I think.

I found my first pipefish - a less appealing seahorse - there once. If you see some plant debris accumulated in a spot, look closely to see if any of the twigs moves differently :D

05-26-1.jpg
 
Interesting, I didn't realize seahorses were uncommon in Coz. On my only trip there (so far), the DM pointed out several.
 
Hi,

Seahorses are not all that common off Cozumel, but we have seen them numerous times. In fact, we have seen them many, many more times there than we have seen pipefish there. The place we see pipefish is off the Big Island of Hawaii.

We have seen them in the Tormentos shallows and far north at a site that some folks call "Barracuda" (outside the Marine Park) and in the shallow area just off the Fiesta Americana. However, in general, they are difficult to find since they tend to blend in with the plants that are their homes. We do not have a name for the place we found them this time, but it is just north of El Presidente at 35 ft (10 meters).

Have a great time on Cozumel!

joewr
 
joewr:
We do not have a name for the place we found them this time, but it is just north of El Presidente at 35 ft (10 meters).

Excellent! We'll be staying at the Presidente. Usually we do our equipment shake-out dives there after arrival as well as quite a bit of afternoon snorkeling. I'll keep an eye out.
 
Seahorses are not an every dive occurrence, but the good DM's can find them.

Beofre the hurricanes, they were much more abundant, but as they live mostly in the shallower areas where the seagrass is...many, many perished in the heavy surge and wave action during the storms.

They ARE starting to come back and Pedro even found a "Seahorse tree" a week or two ago...on a night dive. There were three of them in three different colors :)
 
i've seen pipefish quite a bit, but its been a while for sea horses. last sea-horses i saw was a Las Palmas a few years ago and saw several colors,

diver88
 
Christi:
Seahorses are not an every dive occurrence, but the good DM's can find them.

Beofre the hurricanes, they were much more abundant, but as they live mostly in the shallower areas where the seagrass is...many, many perished in the heavy surge and wave action during the storms.

They ARE starting to come back and Pedro even found a "Seahorse tree" a week or two ago...on a night dive. There were three of them in three different colors :)
Hi Christi,
I was on the seahorse dive with Pedro. We were just north of the Presidente. We all asked Pedro for seahorses, but he wasn't promising anything. 10 minutes into the dive he turned around started signaling and we all clustered around a small piece of branched coral. When Pedro signaled "3" I looked harder, and there they were, clinging to the bottom. Amazing. Naturally, I didn't have my camera.
Terrific dive, we also saw a slipper lobster, (weird), 3 octopus and a squid jetting off!. Lots of fun and an easy dive.
When we surfaced we just floated for a few minutes looking at the stars. Nothing like the sky from the sea. Great dive, great night, with a boat full of SB'ers.

Steve S.
 

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