D9 Battery change "How To"

[netdiver]

The back is conventionally threaded where counterclockwise will remove it and clockwise will tighten it.

I also suggest marking the back with a marker or similar so that you have a gauge when replacing the back to know that it is seated to an appropriate depth.

What kind of tool are you using? Does it have a handle to give you leverage? Mine was a little tough to break free but not excessive.

 

[TEATABLUE]

Hi,

I just arrive on you site and his forum.

I have a D9 computer and Iwould like to change my battery by myself. I am a diving instructor and two year are quickly passed and it's the time to change the battery. I have just a question because your explanations are very clear.

Have I to do a pressure test after the battery change because I have not a pressure bol, where can I by it ?

Thank you for your help.

Excuse me for scolary English

 

[netdiver]

I don't know where to buy one but please see my previous reply to this question on this thread. There's probably not a valuable reason to get one.
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/4763973-post20.html

 

[ChathamDaleJ]

Go to eBay and search the following:

Screw Back Watch Back Case Opener Removal Remover Tool


Less than $20, give you lots of leverage, which you'll need.

 

[ChathamDaleJ]

One could build a pressure pot out of PVC. Look up the pressure it will withstand. Good news is that for a watch, it wouldn't take a lot.

Also, they're on eBay from time to time, but you're talking $100 and probably significantly more.

If you're careful to remove dirt and stuff when you pull the back off and keep it away, you'll probably not have a problem. I took a bit of silicone grease and put it lightly on the o-ring as well.

 

[gogotsu]

I did the battery change and all went well; except now it doesn't keep any logs of the divings. I am stuck with the last one I did, just when the old battery went dead, and it shows a defective diving curve, with interruptions and false depth reads.
There is no sign of leakage and I have already used it twice at a depth of about 20 metres.
Any ideas on the diving logs problem (basically, no logs since battery change)?

Thank you!

 

[netdiver]

Does the depth gauge work properly and only provide false readings in the dive log?

@gogotsu. If so, sounds like a software issue rather than hardware. It is a small computer. As with any computer, I would suggest rebooting it as a first step which means removing and reinserting the battery.

You might also try deleting all logs from the PDC and changing the sampling rate to see if that has some effect.

 

[gogotsu]

Yes, it works perfectly well, apart from the fact that it provides no logs at all.
I would prefer not to change the battery just now; anyway, I'm still on my diving holidays and I haven't got the tools with me. I think I'll try changing the sampling rate, as you say, but I don't think deleting all logs is possible. I think I've read in this forum that there is no way to do that with the D9.
PDC (Personal Diving Computer?)

Thank you

 

[netdiver]

I thought there was a check box during download to remove the logs from the PDC, but I might be confusing that with another PDC I use. You might want to check. I know for sure you can reset the DiveHis with the SDM.

 

[brinh123]

I don't know where to buy one but please see my previous reply to this question on this thread. There's probably not a valuable reason to get one.

I thought the idea of a pressure test pot was that the item being tested was sealed in, suspended above the water, then the pressure DECREASED. Once the pressure difference hits the depth you're testing for, the item is lowered into the water. If bubbles are seen it means there's air leaking from the inside of the item (and so it fails the test, without flooding.)

On doing a bit more research, looks like (at least for watches) I was nearly right.
"A water test involves placing your watch in a pocket of air over water inside a water testing tank. The air pressure inside the tank is then increased. After a minute the watch is submerged in the water and the air pressure is then slowly released. As with an air test, any air that had leaked into the watch before it was submerged will try to equalise with the lower pressure outside the watch. If this happens, it is clearly visible in the form of a constant stream of bubbles coming from the position of the leak. It is important to note that air is coming out and not water going in. If bubbling doesn't occur, then the watch is air tight. Unlike an air test, the air pressure can be altered to test for different water pressures e.g. 10 metres, 50 metres etc. This type of test takes a little longer than an air test but is far more accurate and allows a technician to spot the exact position of a leak making any required repairs quicker and more cost effective."