DIN/Yoke question

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Hahaha, they have to squint their eyes too tightly to see it hahhaah

OK just kidding......

I can't help it of Japan isn't up to speed.

I got my Regs (SP's), and they came with the usual yoke setup (I didn't have a choice at the time)

All I did was buy the DIN fitting, unscrew the yoke fitting, and thread in the DIN fitting.

I didn't say you were going to find the fitting easy, unless you live where I do, and have a "Tech" shop close. I'll admit you may fuddle with the yoke "Nut", because it's simply a PITA to get a wrench to fit unless you have the proper tool already, but in most cases it can be done without the "real" tool.

It may also help to have a holder, or a second person to hold the 1st while you grapple with the tool.

Enjoy!!!

P.S.

As far as getting a DIN fitted reg serviced.........that's utter hog-wash, it's the same thing either way, the regs are identicle except for the fitting!!!!

Time to switch to new goons for reg servicing.....
 
Jonathan:

Let me ask you a question.

I just checked your Proflie (The getting to know you stage). AS a PADI AI, and Tech diver, I would have assumed/expected you to run into this already?

Or is this a "bait" for something more sinister ? :wacko:
 
I know the kit is the same so rather than pay $250 for a service and only a mere $130 I thought that I would swap them over as I have all the bits.

But that nut in the yoke is beyond a PITA IMHO - and no I don't have the right tool or a Tech shop that can help me!

They are currently with a new servicer - this time I included my DIN to Yoke converter. Still waiting after 6 weeks and be interesting to see how much they charge.....

Jonathan
 
Ooooh I'm VERY afraid for you!!

Yikes, 6 weeks!!!!

That's gonna be some bill!

It time for a little DIY learning, cause this is utter BS.

On a good note, that's probably the most physicaly tough "nut" to crack, all the rest of the parts come apart much easier, unless you don't know what you're doing, and then it's REAL tough, followed by Ooooops, that's how it was SUPPOSED to come apart.....mental note for my next set......

Haha

Have fun. It wouldn't be a bad investment to buy a few of these tools, as you don't need many, they're not a whole heck of a lot of money, and they do the job perfectly.

Nothing beats the correct tool for the job. Especially when you can't afford to bugger up the parts!
 
Hi to both of the current protagonists,

Removal of the yoke nut that folklaw says is a pain in the a###, its not that at all and without special tools, pull up a chair and listen to the tales of Uncle Brian.....

From the 1st stage remove the knob /clamp bit.
Obtian access to an engineer's vise with soft jaws (I assume that either you have one or there is a car shop or DIYer near by).
place the 1st stage yoke side down between the open jaws of the vise (open about 3/4 to 1" should do)
Slowly clamp up the vise until the flats on the vise jaws touch the flats on the nut and low and behold you have a spanner that grips the nut without touching the yoke. Nip up the vice to snuggly hold the reg body in place.
Now this bit could vary depending on your reg configuration.....
Remove the pipe or port plug that is in the most horizontal position and fit either a spent CO2 cartridge or a 7/16"UNF bolt / 3/8"UNF bolt or whatever will fully fit the port and snug down on thereg body....2 bolts are better than 1 to make a pair of wings (1 for each hand) and then turn in an anticlockwise direction and you unscrew the body from the nut rether than trying to unscrew the nut fron the body....

Reverse proceedure for refitting after having assembled everything by hand

hope this solves you problem

Brian C
 
Hey Brian, I guess you've never come across the ones with the nuts "just a hair" above the yoke.......As long as it's not too tight, you can get it without it slipping off....Errrr skin on your knuckles I mean.

Otherwise, without the tool, in those instances, it could well be a PITA.

AS usual, nothing beats the right tool for the job.

I love buying the right tools....it's makes life simple, and you look like a hero with your huge tool box on those great dive trips!

I've helped more than one person out of a potential jam with that box!
 
The DIN fitting with the captured O-ring seems so much more logical, it made me wonder what was the advantage of a yoke. There had to be some advantage or the yoke would not have become such a popular design. The only reason I could think of is that if the threads on a DIN fitting get "dinged" then it is unusable. Because a yoke fitting doesn't have a thread which can be damaged, it more able to sustain rough service and maintain useability.

Does this seem correct? Have any of you DIN divers had to replace threaded couplings due to damaged threads?
 
I've heard remarks that DIN threads could potentially be easier to damage, but I don't know if this is really true in life, since I'm not using one yet.

However, I suspect that the prevalence of yoke type connections has to do more with inertia than any superiority in the design. Once most valves are yoke-type, most people will buy regulators with yoke fittings, and then since most people have yoke regulators most rental tanks will be yoke, and then and so on.
Kind of similar to the situation between QWERTY and Dvorak keyboards. It's well known that the Dvorak keyboard is superior, but the QWERTY works well enough and most people and most keyboards are QWERTY, so changing over is almost impossible.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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