Question DIY Paint Scuba Cylinders?

[SlugLife]

I happen to have several tanks, some with worn-down, chipped, or ugly paint. I also have some (no-bake) Cerakote, a extremely durable ceramic-based paint often used on guns, and was thinking my scuba-tanks would make a great practice-surface, and possibly some cool art-projects!

The basic process is to sand-blast the surface, paint with an air-gun in several very thin layers, and then let dry. My basic thinking is to install a "garbage" valve, sand-blast, paint, re-install my good valve, and move onto the next cylinder.

That leaves a couple interesting questions:

• Would you be concerned about sand-blasting near the markings on the top of the tank?
• What about the "Warning" stickers on the bottom of scuba-tanks. I could mask them, but I'd prefer to remove them and paint the whole cylinder. Should I just remove them and leave them removed? Should I replace them? The stickers say to not remove them, but otherwise don't really say anything too interesting. Would scuba-shops not want to fill cylinders which lack that sticker?
• Is there anything stupid about this idea? Anything I'm missing?

 

[BoltSnap]

My basic thinking is to install a "garbage" valve, sand-blast, paint, re-install my good valve, and move onto the next cylinder.

You can get tank plugs to seal the opening of the tank. It is used when tumbling tanks.

 

[SlugLife]

You can get tank plugs to seal the opening of the tank. It is used when tumbling tanks.

Good to know. I suppose it may depend on which plug I get, but how tight is the seal? Reason being, the "sand" from sand-blasting is ultra-fine and gets in everything. I'd be worried about some of it getting in the threads, or around where the o-ring sits.

DGX Threaded Dust Plug for Cylinder Neck, Plastic

Threaded Dust Plug for Cylinder Neck, Plastic - includes BOTH an O-ring and a rubber gasket to ensure a tight seal for your cylinder when not in use. Ideal for travel (CCR) or for off-season storage.

www.divegearexpress.com

Here's one for $2 plus shipping, not bad.

 

[tridacna]

Good to know. I suppose it may depend on which plug I get, but how tight is the seal? Reason being, the "sand" from sand-blasting is ultra-fine and gets in everything. I'd be worried about some of it getting in the threads, or around where the o-ring sits.

DGX Threaded Dust Plug for Cylinder Neck, Plastic

Threaded Dust Plug for Cylinder Neck, Plastic - includes BOTH an O-ring and a rubber gasket to ensure a tight seal for your cylinder when not in use. Ideal for travel (CCR) or for off-season storage.

www.divegearexpress.com

Here's one for $2 plus shipping, not bad.

Those come for free with every new tank when they receive them at your LDS. We used to have dozens lying around. Just ask your LDS for a few. They’re pretty good at sealing the tank.

 

[Johnoly]

Anything I'm missing?

You didn't say.......Steel or Aluminum?
Also blasting with dry ice or soda won't take any metal off (like around the tank ID markings)

 

[Boarderguy]

We use a few different media when cleaning aircraft parts. It all depends on the material. Glass beads and plastic media are most common. I use glass for delicate items and it will strip protective coatings off like alodine easily. All others I stick with the plastic stuff. It cuts through all non metal materials and cleans off corrosion without damaging the surface material. I was thinking of taking in a few of my tanks and blasting them and finding a place to galvanize afterwords. Either that or just hit them with some Rustoleum.

 

[SlugLife]

You didn't say.......Steel or Aluminum?
Also blasting with dry ice or soda won't take any metal off (like around the tank ID markings)

Potentially both, but starting with aluminum tanks.

I have sand-blasted aluminum and polymer gun parts before, and they were fine. I believe what I used (and still have) is Aluminum Oxide.

We use a few different media when cleaning aircraft parts. It all depends on the material. Glass beads and plastic media are most common. I use glass for delicate items and it will strip protective coatings off like alodine easily. All others I stick with the plastic stuff. It cuts through all non metal materials and cleans off corrosion without damaging the surface material. I was thinking of taking in a few of my tanks and blasting them and finding a place to galvanize afterwords. Either that or just hit them with some Rustoleum.

I may try glass media, at least on the areas with markings.

Those come for free with every new tank when they receive them at your LDS. We used to have dozens lying around. Just ask your LDS for a few. They’re pretty good at sealing the tank.

Cool, I might as well ask next time I'm there, although that might be a while due to winter weather. I may dive another 1-2 days, but probably won't be filling any tanks.

 

[OMyMyOHellYes]

Tried to find local shop to do vapor blasting/honing - have decided naked looks better than old paint, and are easier to clean up, make look good again. No flaking , no paint to hide under and make oxide, and no scraping off bubbles at VIP time.

I understand it's glass bead blasting in a water slurry? No real success so far finding it. A few folks advertize it, but don't want to pick up the phone. One guy returned the call but turned down the work and just said chem stripping would be a better option.

Glass and bead blasting you say? That's dry media?

OMMOHY

 

[SlugLife]

Tried to find local shop to do vapor blasting/honing - have decided naked looks better than old paint, and are easier to clean up, make look good again. No flaking , no paint to hide under and make oxide, and no scraping off bubbles at VIP time.

I understand it's glass bead blasting in a water slurry? No real success so far finding it. A few folks advertize it, but don't want to pick up the phone. One guy returned the call but turned down the work and just said chem stripping would be a better option.

Glass and bead blasting you say? That's dry media?

OMMOHY

What I'm talking about is dry sand-blasting, using pressurized air and some dry-media like aluminum oxide. Alternatively, sand-paper can do the job too.

I do like my silver and bare-metal tanks. The orange one as well. That said, this blue one has some nasty paint-peeling, and my relatively new pony-bottle has paint-chipping on the base. If I didn't already have the supplies, and enjoy the process, I certainly wouldn't bother painting the tanks. But the fact that it's practice for another project and a hands-on distraction kinda makes it worth it.

Cerakote won't chip, flake, or even scratch unless you seriously hack away at it. Maybe some bare-metal hose clamps might wear a little over a rather long time with heavy use.

 

[Boarderguy]

I understand it's glass bead blasting in a water slurry? No real success so far finding it. A few folks advertize it, but don't want to pick up the phone. One guy returned the call but turned down the work and just said chem stripping would be a better option.

Glass and bead blasting you say? That's dry media?

OMMOHY

Those are dry media in a booth that recycles the media at the base of the box. You could sand blast without a booth but you lose every grain that can't be swept back up. Each tank would take about 10-15 minutes depending on how stubborn the paint and corrosion are.

@SlugMug how do you apply the cerakote? I've got a small airless Wagner and an airbrush laying around. For my tanks that have/need a vip I plan to just take back in early and have it done after the process. All other sticker markings don't matter imo.