doubled alu. 60s?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

JahJahwarrior:
So if this manifold where the odd, old type with one post in the centre and no iso, it'd actually potentially be nice, because I don't pay for two fills, right?

I'm going to go look at the setup sometime, the guy mentioned some other gear he has that I might want and I'll look at this then.

Ah, probably not. All the shop's I've been to charge by the tank, not the outlet. Well, that or by the cft. In those cases - 2 al 60's = 2 fills. Its entirely shop dependent though.
 
dhampton82:
is there a diagram somewere of how manifolds work?

So, hm..... ok, if the left valve is turned OFF and the isolater valve is turned ON, then the right side regulator can still get the gas out of the left side tank?

I guess I dont understand valves at all

I don't have a picture but I'll see if ASCII art works


Code:
        ( )            ( )   
      <>***      ^     ***<>
         *       *      *
         ****************
         ==             ==
         ===            ===
        =====          =====

As you see, the ( ) are the outlets, the <> and ^ are the valves and the ** represent the manifold. The post valves control the outlets only. They have no impact on the crossbar. The isolator valve controls the crossbar. So, if the isolator is open, irregarless of the state of the two post valves, gas can flow between the two tanks.
 
ok, i see now. It allways thought that the valve closed off the tank and not the outlet! Thanks alot cavediver
 
This thread makes me a little nervous. If anyone is going to go dive dbl's for the first time and doesn't understand their type of manifold or how it works, find an istructor that can show you the difference and how they work. People have been killed opening and closing there isolator to try to save money on a fill. The last thing you want to do is close your isolator at the fill station, that's an accident waiting to happen when you get to the water. The internet is not the place to learn how to use this equipment. Take a class on diving dbl's.
 
I don't really want to dive doubles :) And I understand how a manifold works, but I was unaware of the second type of manifold: the type with one post and one valve. That confused me, so I asked for clarification.

I looked at the gear tonight, the guys actually got two 60's, undoubled. Original hydro is 93, and they are in hydro. Not sure about VIP, forgot to check. He's got another set of OLD US Divers tanks, 60's, and he said he'd take the manifold and bands off of that set and put them on this set to double them. At this point, I think it would be a mistake for me to purchase this setup.
1. I would be possibly paying for two air fills. :( Lose money in long run. It's ok if I had huge tanks, but these arne't huge.
2. manifold is the old centre post style, with a Jvalve. I don't know how much I trust it, it probably hasn't seen air for 10 years.
3. Looked like a single band on the doubles. My BC, a Scubapro, has screw things for doubles, but it needs two bands to be stable, I think.
4. He wants $20 for the manifold and bands. So $120 for 120 cubic feet of air, 2x the fill price, and I would have to learn how to dive well with doubles. In the future, I want to get doubles but I want LP85's.

For the present, I'm looking for cheap tanks. These are cheap. The 60's might work great as stage bottles, but I don't need any of those. :( Ideally, I want a steal on a steel LP 85, 95 or bigger. I've got a friend who got relatively new (maybe one hydro cycle) steel 120's for $100 apiece. He says they are LP, but if I recall they have DIN valves, and I don't know what bar they were for. I think they might be HP 120's. I really want to find a better deal than that, but it's unlikely, he bought those from a relative. And I want to go steel so in the future I can get a matching tank and double them for cave diving.
 
100 bucks is a good deal unless they have been abused. Is there air in the tank? Might need a tumble and a hydro but still a good price. I would take a look at the burst disc, If there are doubled up discs in it it is a sign it has been overfilled. I would get it hydroed and get a printout of the results. If it passes OK you did well. Otherwise they are almost 4X as much.
 
You really think it's a great deal? If I bought them, I could use them as singles, and potentially, my younger brother might start diving this summer, and he might appreciate a lighter tank. Or I could buy them and try to sell them on here :)

Scubatoys has these tanks new for $150, I think shipping isn't too much. These are from 93, so not that old. They are in hydro right now. I'm sure I could make a deal with the guy where if they don't pass vip, I get my money back. And I could for $20 get the band and manifold, and I could try putting it on and see if I could dive it like that. I dunno. If I had my druthers, I'd find a cheap lp85, that's all I'll say :)
 
Jah Jah,
If you are planning on eventually getting into cave diving. Why not buy a single steel tank. lp95, 108, 120,130. You can use it in your Cavern and intro classes. It will be great to get you accustomed to how a steel tank dives. Then if you decide to go apprentice or Full, buy another one and double them.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom