Drysuit weighting advice

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Dhboner

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I just don't log dives
I am making the switch from a 7mm neoprene jumpsuit to a DUI 1.5mm hyper compressed neoprene drysuit (the CNSE model). I know that my weighting requirements will depend on undergarments and other variables but can someone give me a starting point for adjusting my weight needs. I currently use 13 lbs in freshwater with a BP/wing, 7mm wetsuit, gloves, hood and boots.

I am heading out this weekend for the drysuit's maiden voyage and to sort out my weighting needs, but I could use some advice as to a good starting point. Based on my sons logbook (he dives a similar suit) I think I should need to add around 4-6 lbs.

Any help would be appreciated.

Bob (Toronto)
 
Is there anyway to get into a pool first?
 
Not really (although that would be perfect). The plan for Sunday's dive is to make sure I have enough weight to easily submerge and then do a proper check at the end of the dive.

I am just looking for a starting point.

Cheers

Bob
 
I worried about this issue as well. I find weighing to be a lot more difficult with DS. I took a lot of weight to the quarry and started my dive a little heavier than anticipated. Then reduced until I had it almost right. If anyone else has suggestions regarding this I would also be interested to know.
 
I find just changing undergarmets also requires a change in weight. I recently switched to an MK2 and had to add 10 lbs more than previous dry suit dives without the MK2.
 
I teach drysuit classes all the time. We typically do the OW dives in Lake Tahoe (fresh water).

Since you really didn't say height, weight, steel or aluminum plate/tank, etc, I'll pass on that:

If I saw a typical 5'8" male @ 180 lbs, with standard weight (200g) fleece undies & a crushed neo suit, get underwater with 20 lbs total ballast I'd be shocked. If you were in our shop picking up gear (conventional BC and aluminum tank), I'd hand you a 30 lb belt and two extra 4 lb blocks to adjust with. With a steel BP & cylinder, a 20 lb belt and two extra blocks.




Being too light with a drysuit is so miserable you don't even want to contemplate it....! Here's what happens when you are a pound or two "too light":

•You are just barely able to get underwater, mostly by milking the BC empty and smashing the suit onto you like shrinkwrap
•The shrinkwrap makes you colder
•The shrinkwrap constricts your chest and makes breathing a chore, at worst forcing you into claustrophobia
•You can't move much and swear out loud
•The dive eventually feels just a wee bit better until...
•The cylinder gets about half empty, and becomes light
•You now feel yourself definitely on the verge of floating despite sculling with your hands, and you swear some more
•Eventually physics wins and you do float, undignified-like and helpless, to the surface
•You exit the water determined to sell the POS drysuit to the first person that waves a $20 bill at you


Whew. Take what you think you need and add 4 lbs. You'll shave it off later.


All the best, James
 
The issue of how much weight I need comes up every time I make significant changes to undergarments or use unfamiliar tanks.

Here is my approach:

The goal of correct pre-dive weighting is to be just a tad negative when the tanks are nearly empty after venting the suit in our normal ascent position.
Unfortunately, tanks are usually full before we start the dive and we have to predict what will happen when they are (nearly) empty.

We know how much weight we loose when we breathe down a tank. I use the figure of 8# per 100 cuft. If I dive a HP100 tank I better be 8# heavy at the beginning of the dive.

How can I find out how much negative I am at the beginning of the dive? I could drop weights until I am neutral and then put the desired amount (in this case 8#) back on for the dive or I could add 8# of buoyancy and see whether I am still slightly negative. I prefer the latter by orally inflating my wing, knowing that my full lung volume creates about 8# of buoyancy.

Enter shallow water fully kitted up with regulator in mouth and mask on.
Float on the surface, face down, with the drysuit somewhat inflated and the dump valve closed.
Wiggle and stretch and verify that I can reach the manifold valves.
Open dump valve and dump from wing (or BC) to submerge.
I should be heavy enough to sink to the bottom as the tanks are still full.
On the bottom, I first dump every little bit of gas out of the wing, then slightly inflate my suit and 'roll' as much gas out of the suit as I could during a horizontal ascent.
I take a deeeeep breath and then blow my entire lung volume into the oral inflator of the wing. Once I resume normal breathing from the regulator I am now 8# more buoyant than before.
If I am barely neutral at this point, my weighing is OK for 100 cuft of air/nitrox. (200 cuft will need two full breath in the wing, of course)
If I am still "stuck" to the bottom, I know that I am overweight. If I cork while orally inflating, I need more weight to be neutral at the end of the dive.

The whole procedure takes less than 3 minutes and works in fresh and salt water.

With some practice this can even be done without a bottom.
Drain the wing on the surface while being vertical in the water and use suit inflation to keep you from sinking.
Blow the desired amount of gas into the wing.
Do the surface wiggle in the suit, dump the gas from the suit and see whether you slowly sink.
I typically exhale fully and kick down a few feet to see whether I can stay there in horizontal trim with normal breathing.

How do I determine my lung volume? The easiest would be to ask a physician during your next checkup.
If your doctor does not have a spirometer or you are the DIY type here is one possibility: Fill a gallon jug with water and hold it in a water filled sink with the open end facing down. Now, blow air into the jug through a piece of vinyl tubing, garden hose, etc. How far you can fill the jug with air will give you a pretty good idea of your lung volume. Larger people may need a larger vessel of known volume or multiple jugs. Don't worry about the third decimal, we just need a rough idea.

Edit: Agree with James. Erring a couple (!) pounds on the heavy side is not a bad idea. However, I found that the method I described above errs towards slightly heavy as the whole kit gets a little less buoyant in the first minutes of the subsequent dive due to all the little bubbles coming out of every nook and cranny.
 
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I teach drysuit classes all the time. We typically do the OW dives in Lake Tahoe (fresh water).

Since you really didn't say height, weight, steel or aluminum plate/tank, etc, I'll pass on that:

If I saw a typical 5'8" male @ 180 lbs, with standard weight (200g) fleece undies & a crushed neo suit, get underwater with 20 lbs total ballast I'd be shocked.

Really? I am 205 lbs and 5.10. I did a drysuit dive with 20 lbs last week. It was in freshwater and I wanted to try the same dive with even less weight. My improvised undergarments were a full sleeve polyester worn under a fleece. I did not feel underweighted at all but I did not finish the tank all the way either; I exited the water with 1000 psi. Does that mean that if I was close to 500 lbs I would be bouncing to the surface?
 
I use the same amount of weight dry vs. wet. With a three pound backplate, steel 119 and cordura drysuit, I use 18# on a weightbelt. I could probably drop a couple pounds, but I take my camera on every dive so I like to be slightly negative.
 
I have no idea what to use for your drysuit, however I did just make the switch from wet to dry.

7mm farmer john to Shell suit, 2 pants/sweaters under, 5'2 and 160. I added 8 lbs for the switch.

Seems like a bit much, but at the same time my dives today were max 23 feet, min 5 feet - and not once did I have to really fight to stay down
 

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