Entry-level BP/W

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I am inclined to go with a BP/W instead of a vest BCD, but I have no experience with a BP/W and no knowledge about what a reasonable set up is.

Assume single tank use in the ocean (Monterey Bay) and a full 7/5 wetsuit with a 5 mm hooded vest.

How much lift is needed from the wings?

Like was said, 30 or 35 lbs should be enough for single tank unless you need a ton of weight to sink you. I'm 6'3" and use a 30lb wing in my 7mm full suit w/ 7mm hooded jacket.

Is steel better than aluminum in this instance because the additional weight will reduce the amount of lead needed?

Since you're diving cold water I'd get a steel backplate. You can take some weight off wherever you put it now that way. They are usually 5 - 6 lbs.

Is a pad needed between the plate and your back?

I don't use one, and unless it has a pocket you want to stick a lift bag in, I think it's a waste of money. Neoprene is very padded.

Are there different wing shapes, and does the shape matter?

Horseshoe and doughnut shaped. I dive a doughnut because I can get air trapped in one side to the other to vent it out the bottom without much effort.

Are there different harness configurations, and if so, what are the pro's and cons of the different styles.

Sort of. Some come with a bunch of crap and quick releases. Some have a ton of d-rings. I personally like a simple Hogarthian setup. One ring on each shoulder, one ring and front and back of crotch strap, and I like one ring on each hip (but DIR is only a ring on the left hip, but I'm not DIR :)). You will find you don't need a ton of rings and they just become clutter.

Any recommendations for entry-level BP/W setups?

Something from here would work great. And like was said, it's not entry level, it's just a BP/W and can last you the rest of your diving life.

Ultimate Hogarthian Backplate, Harness and Wing Systems - Dive Gear Express
 
I am diving a DRIS bp/w kit in 57 degree water with a full 5mm wetsuit, gloves, hood, and boots. I really like this rig.

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I dive a Dive Rite Voyager XT (35lb lift) with a S/S backplate and basic harness. Great for cold water and warmer temps as long as I'm using an AL tank.

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So, for a question you asked that has had answers hinted at but not fully answered: Types of harness

There are three main types of harness: Hog, Deluxe, and Soft.
Hog has been described. It's a single piece of 2-inch webbing with no padding, no fancy bells and whistles and doo-dads. This is what most people end up preferring because they find out that there's nothing to cause unnecessary buoyancy, it's the cleanest setup, and it's comfy enough that padding is pointless.

Deluxe is similar to the Hollis Elite 2. Practically every brand has one. It's comprised of several pieces of webbing. Typically one for your shoulders down to clips between your shoulders and your waist. Those clip into pieces that go to plates that run to your waist belt. Your waist belt is a separate piece of webbing. These are adjustable, padded, and have clips. These also typically have two d-rings per shoulder compared to the 1-per of DIR/Hogarthian setups. These are marketed as comfier, better, and easier. Some people prefer these, but I've yet to see a reason why....other than shoulder mobility, but I'll explain the fix for that in a second.

Soft is probably a bad term for it, but it's a soft backplate. The most famous is the Transpac. These typically have a "deluxe-style" harness built in, don't require a backplate, and are marketed as the comfiest by-far. I believe most can accomodate adding a hard backplate. IMHO, if you're getting this you had might as well get a poodle-jacket. It's nothing but soft, buoyant, padding that is completely superfluous.

The "fix" for shoulder mobility on a hogarthian-type harness comes in two forms: Adjustable harness or custom buckle. The custom buckle is sewing in a custom buckle on one side of your harness. I suggest keeping your fully Hog-compliant setup the same in every way, except you split the webbing between your top and bottom connections on one side somewhere near your rib cage and add a heavy-duty buckle there by sewing it in. That way you can get out of it more easily on land (if your shoulder mobility is limited) by simply unclipping one buckle. The other one, which I like better, is the "adjustable" harness. I first saw it on the Hollis Ride, but I believe the Halcyon Cinch system is the same idea. On a hogarthian harness, your shoulder straps ARE your waist strap, so these "adjustable" ones allow you to tighten your shoulder straps down by pulling the slack out and into the waist strap area....and then loosening by adding slack to the shoulder straps by pulling it out of the waist strap area. I'm still playing with an idea about how to add it to any system, but we'll see how that pans out :D

One last comment on the back pad. It's not necessary for comfort. I spent a lot of time DM'ing pool sessions in swim trunks or a 2mm shorty, and the BPW was fine. It is surprisingly comfortable, as it spreads the weight evenly over your back. I want a backpad on mine (haven't bought one yet) JUST for the storage pouch for a lift bag. I think that's a really cool idea. Other than that, don't waste your time/money on one.

Overall, the general consensus that there's no "entry-level bpw" is a good one. The nice thing about the BPW is that anyone can dive one, and it can grow with you as your diving progresses. It's a simple, clean, efficient system that reduces clutter and waste in an efficient way.....as long as you set it up that way. People add hundreds of pockets and QR weight pouches and all these other bells and whistles that add up to a poodle jacket.

Get yourself a Marseilles-style weight belt (it's rubber, mostly used by freedivers, and uses a buckle like most belts instead of like your waist strap on your BPW) and a stainless plate, a steel tank, and some weight plates if you need that much weight. Remember, though, that you want SOME weight on yourself so you're not SUPER buoyant without the BPW itself (balanced rig concept).
 
^ Just to add my recent experience to the above post, I've had over 200 dives since going BP/W and love it. The only issue I've had was on my last dive when one side must have loosened up when I was kitting up (shore dive) and I hadn't noticed until I was in the water and the tank had a tendency to rotate a little (well the whole rig was). So I had a look at those 'deluxe' and 'comfort' webbing set ups and they seem to detract from why I switched in the first place.

To start off with I'd grab the cheapest set-up you can get your hands on, like everything in SCUBA it'll take a while for you to know what you like, what needs changing and what drives you crazy and it's not worth spending huge sums to get to that point in this instance.
 
Having just purchased my first BPW last fall here's what I learned from Tobin at DSS and other smart people here on SB :D.

1. Calculate the lift requirements you need and get a wing that is not too large. If the wing is too large it "tacos" (folds over the tank and can trap air). I used the wing calculator that is a sticky on the BCD forum. I also determined the actual bouyancy of my 7mm wetsuit by filling a trash can full of water and placing weights on it until it began to sink. Ironically, the 3 pounds per 1mm of neoprene was pretty much dead on. I have a XL-Tall Bare and it had a bouancy of 22 pounds. I would say anything larger than 35# would be a concern if you are diving a single tank.
2. The idea that Tobin from DSS kept telling me is you need to float your rig. So taking into consideration that my wetsuit was 22#'s positive and my regulator + gauges + BP (stainless steel) + tank (AL80) is right around 10 pounds I would have to carry roughly 12#'s of lead. To float my rig it comes to the 10 pounds but then I also want to float the extra lead so that adds 12#s so the wing should be able to float 20#s. Tobin recommended the Torus 26# wing given I don't want to drop my lead to float. I could have gone to the 35# wing but really did not need to.
3. HOG harness is simple and will fit you no matter your size. They are VERY comfortable underwater so no need for shoulder pads, back pads, quick releases etc.
4. Personally I went with DSS rig because I wanted the taller/longer BP. I'm 6'4" and mostly torso. You can select from a bunch of companies and get a really nice setup for what you'd pay for a traditional BCD.

Having owned a jacket style and rear inflate, you are making a smart decision (IMHO) to go with the BP/W first. They are simple, interchangable and don't have a lot of unneeded bling.

Have fun shopping!
 
I am inclined to go with a BP/W instead of a vest BCD, but I have no experience with a BP/W and no knowledge about what a reasonable set up is.

Assume single tank use in the ocean (Monterey Bay) and a full 7/5 wetsuit with a 5 mm hooded vest.

How much lift is needed from the wings?

Is steel better than aluminum in this instance because the additional weight will reduce the amount of lead needed?

Is a pad needed between the plate and your back?

Are there different wing shapes, and does the shape matter?

Are there different harness configurations, and if so, what are the pro's and cons of the different styles.

Any recommendations for entry-level BP/W setups?

Ideally, you want:
About a 32 lb, donut style wing.
Stainless backplate, to reduce carried lead and help with trim (the weight is spread out nicely)
No pad is needed. You won't notice the plate.
Horseshoe and donut are the two shapes. Donuts are a lot better for single tank diving.
There are MANY harness types. The most basic being the "Hogarthian" style, which has one buckle, 5 d-rings (one on each shoulder, one on each hip, and one on the crotch strap), and is made of 2" cordura webbing.

Ideally, you should be diving a steel tank for cold water. I would recommend an LP72 if you want a cheap, easy to find tank ($5 to $40 all day on craigslist)...or if you want more gas, you can get an HP100 (also easy to find, reminder; some are 300bar DIN only!).
 
If you need additional lead, you can place some xsscuba weight pockets which hold up to 5lbs each and put them on your tank bands and waist belt which will negate the need for a weight belt. My wing has 28 lbs of lift and I dive with either 6 or 8 kgs of extra lead depending on what tank I use.

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Check this thread for a tool to determine how much lift you need.
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/bu...ems/158370-ultimate-wing-lift-calculator.html

The #32 wing size that most people seem to like for singles is about 15 pounds too much lift for me, for example, and I can't stand it. I generally dive a ~18-20 pounder and just bought a 25 pounder due to some new steel tanks. I haven't dove it yet but don't have enough lift with the smaller one so I'll have to suck it up if I don't like it. (I dove my 18 pounder quite comfortably with the steel LP95s I used as rentals in San Diego, which I suspect is similar to what you'd rent in Monterey.)

Other than that, a plate is a plate (for the most part) and a wing is a wing. Buy one that fits your budget and gets you the lift you need. I have no beef against the "comfort" harnesses, but opted for the cheaper one-piece webbing harness because I just didn't see a need to pay for the "comfort" when it wasn't necessary.
 
I dont know if there is such a thing as a etry level bp/w. It is just that a metel plate, 10 ft of strap and buskles, and a wing.

I would guess that your suit is probably a pos30#, to counter this you will need a steel tank -10 and a steel back plate -6 and lead on the belt.
I would recommentd that you contact DSS and get your steel plate form them and buy thier steel plate weights. They are 4# each and bolt on to the plate. that will now make you suit +30 ,,, tank -10,,, bp -14 and you wil have 6# on the weight belt. This will allow you to have your weight centered on your body.
Your body pivit center is near your solarplex. having lots of weight at the waist makes you but heavy and you have to have a shaped wing to comp for this. I believe i have a tourus wing that is thin at the shoulders and thick at the hips to carry the weight of the belt when using a dry suit adn thick undergarment. When using a wet suit i use a donut shape wing. (even lift from hip to shoulder) I use a oxycheq 28-32# wing for single diving. i had a dss but the hose is centered on the valve and i like it attached at the left shoulder and not behind my neck. More head movement ability and it dies not conflict with regulator mounting. I would also suggest you look into a dry suit for those waters. Caution you willl need a larger wing for a dry suit in ase you flood the suit and get like 20-30 heavy.

My rig is this
warm water 3/2 shorty
salt water steel plate with 4# bp weights LP 95 steel tank. no weight needed on a belt.
fresh water steel plate with no bp weights LP 95 steel tank. no weight needed on a belt

so i only need a wing that will handle 10# for the air in the tank and another 10 # to hold myead out of the water with full tank. I use a28-32 wing for an extes 10# or so for reserve bouyancy for the buddy or if i am weighted down with gear. I also have an al plate that is 2 # and a kydex plate that is 1#. I find that the 2 4# plates that mount on the steel bp is perfect counter for going from fresh to salt water. so when i go back to fresh i remove the 8# of steel plate weights adn i am ready to go. i dive lp95's and lp 120 tanks. when single. Both have teh same bouyancy charactoristics at end of dive.
 

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