Flashlight hacking - u/w conversion?

[Rob9000]

I am looking for a small backup/day light. I've read threads about a homebrew can light, but I want a non-can something small and powerfull...and probably 18650 powered.

I was reading about the hack to the Intova 660 light in the Lights forum, but the current version has the LED glued in so it appears it is not as easy (or not possible) to put in a higher output LED.

What about taking a non-underwater light and converting it to u/w? Like get one of the 200+ lumen CREE lights from DealExtreme and then make it dive-able. I assume the biggest problem would be the switch. Maybe make the end cap a twist on/off kind of thing? I would imagine additional o-rings would need to be used in that case. It would kind of be like the Maglite conversion part of a homebrew can light, but trying to find a way to seal the delivered switch and still be able to turn it on and off, right?

Or...is it better to buy a cheaper incandescent SCUBA light (so you have a sealed container with an u/w switch) and try to rig a drop in module for LED? The thing is since the body is plastic the heat dissipation will not be as good as a metal body.

There is this one that is rated to 100m out of the box....150 lumen and includes the 18650 battery and charger for $79: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15576

 

[Packhorse]

I wouldnt trust that light due to its clicky switch.
I wouldnt bother trying to mod a non dive light either.
Stick with a dive light. Best option is an aluminium one not plastic.

I have modded several IST dive lights. and the latest version uses a Cree R2 200 + lumen LED, 8 degree aspheric lens and a 18650 Li Ion cell. I get 2 hours + at near full power and at least another hour at a reduced but still very bright level.

I have one left for sale at the mo and can do some more later.

 

[trogg]

i took a river rock 2C size LED light ($30 from target)
went to home depot and picked up some large gauge shrink tubing, super glue and silicone window seal made by dapp
i then sealed off the lexan lens, careful not to spill glue on it, as it is a focused lens.
i proceeded to fill in a machine gap in the light itself, checking it with an air compressor underwater
once all the leaks were sealed, i re-sealed them with silicone, inserted my batteries, greased the battery O ring, and put silicone on the threads. (once they set they should still be able to be taken out, but im going to replace my batteries with a sub c rechargable battery pack and machine a charging plug to the outside, covered by silicone and heat shrink.) with the batteries in place and the end cap screwed back on i took some 1 1/4" heat shrink and wrapped the seam of the end cap.
the light works flawless for me, i also drilled out the wrist loop hole, to fit a keychain attached to a caribeaner.
i have taken it down to 100 feet and havent had any of the seals leak or break. its a very sturdy light for the money and everything i did cost under $20 including snacks.