Flooded my 2nd camera. It sucks. What's going on?
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Wisnu
Contributor
I have similar experience with SP-350 & PT-030.
First, on Dec. 2007 at koh pi pi, I believe it was my fault, changing the battery in between 2 dives. I tested w/ empty housing, no leak; so I bough another one.
Then, Aug. 2008, in Tulamben during diving I saw lot of moisture inside the housing; immediately switched-off and found few cc of water, could smell something burn. I dried the camera under direct sunlight for a day - working again. Rechecked the empty housing up to 30 meter; still no leak.
Until now the camera still working but strange behaviour, mostly underwater I need few minutes before ready to take next shot and the battery (Eneloop not CR-V3) will last for only 5 - 10 shots. Topside typically much better.
First, on Dec. 2007 at koh pi pi, I believe it was my fault, changing the battery in between 2 dives. I tested w/ empty housing, no leak; so I bough another one.
Then, Aug. 2008, in Tulamben during diving I saw lot of moisture inside the housing; immediately switched-off and found few cc of water, could smell something burn. I dried the camera under direct sunlight for a day - working again. Rechecked the empty housing up to 30 meter; still no leak.
Until now the camera still working but strange behaviour, mostly underwater I need few minutes before ready to take next shot and the battery (Eneloop not CR-V3) will last for only 5 - 10 shots. Topside typically much better.
DennisW
Contributor
I always inspect my o-ring with a magnifying glass before I close the case. I have found lint and really small hairs. An eyelash will flood your camera.
If the housing didn't leak initially, I think LarryC is right and you probably have a problem with a button on the housing that begins to leak at depth. The PT-030 was a pretty robust housing. I used and abused the one I had and never had a leak. JC hit on grease...make sure you're using the olympus grease. If you use another brand it might cause the oring to swell and deform. Try a rinse test in a tub of water, work the buttons well. You can even try coloring the water with food dye just rinse it well after the test. If you have a leak, you should be able to reproduce that at the surface. If you can't, try taking the camera to your LDS and have them put it in a pressure pot.
I agree it's probably an o-ring issue but that has been covered well. When you test dive it empty, be sure to work all the buttons. It's possible that it leaked on the times you used a certain button that you normally do not use, which might explain the dives in between where it did not leak.
The PT-030 is only rated for 130' and that's not much of a buffer margin when you're at 100'. That doesn't mean it will implode at 131' as I and many others have had it much deeper without issues. But the Ikelite housing is rated to 300', IIRC.
I don't like to open the housing on surface intervals and make sure the o-ring and mating surface is dry. I don't know if it's possible for moisture to "create a path" for a leak (kinda how a canvas tent repels water until you touch it) but even if not there's too many things that can go wrong opening the housing on a boat or a beach or other unclean environment.
If you giant stride with the camera (not recommended) be sure the impact didn't loosen a latch. Even if you have it lowered, check the latches one last time before you descend.
The PT-030 is only rated for 130' and that's not much of a buffer margin when you're at 100'. That doesn't mean it will implode at 131' as I and many others have had it much deeper without issues. But the Ikelite housing is rated to 300', IIRC.
I don't like to open the housing on surface intervals and make sure the o-ring and mating surface is dry. I don't know if it's possible for moisture to "create a path" for a leak (kinda how a canvas tent repels water until you touch it) but even if not there's too many things that can go wrong opening the housing on a boat or a beach or other unclean environment.
If you giant stride with the camera (not recommended) be sure the impact didn't loosen a latch. Even if you have it lowered, check the latches one last time before you descend.
AUTiger
Contributor
I'm sorry for your loss and I'm sure that its maddening.
Since the housing works at home (for multiple dives over several months, I'm guessing) and fails on vacation, my first thought went to your workflow for preparing the housing.
At home, I almost always set up my rig the night before with a significant amount of care in a well-lit place. I also know that I don't have any pets to contribute hair and I usually assemble things in the same environment.
On a vacation, one might feel short on time and the assembly environment might not be optimal. Some people get rushed or try to set up their camera right before the day's diving. This can lead to errors.
Most housing floods that I have personally seen have been attributed to user error and lack of attention to detail during assembly. I'm not saying that you did anything wrong, but if a housing only fails twice out of many dives with similar profiles, then its probably not the housing, its probably the user.
I've used Oly housings (C-5060) and Ikelite housings (C-5060 and D80). I also have several Canon housings (SD800 and G9). The Ike housings are definitely a better design, although the Oly housing was sufficient.
jcclink said not to "grease" the o-ring with anything. I think that the Oly o-ring does require lube, although it may be a special lube provided or sold by Olympus. If the instructions say to lube, then do it. I usually wipe the length of the o-ring with a lint free cloth, being careful not to stretch it. I then put some lube between my thumb and forefinger and gently pull the o-ring through it, once again being careful not to stretch it. I put a very light coating on the o-ring. I remove any specks or fibers. I use the lint free cloth to wipe the housing o-ring channels clean before reinstalling.
I've kept my housings latched shut for months at a time with no ill effect. It is not good to leave them latched for plane flights because some of the air can diffuse out of the housing during the low pressure trip in the plane's cargo hold creating a vaccuum that can make it difficult to open the housing. That's my only issue with leaving it latched.
Good luck on your next camera.
David
underwaterpaparazzo.blogspot.com
Since the housing works at home (for multiple dives over several months, I'm guessing) and fails on vacation, my first thought went to your workflow for preparing the housing.
At home, I almost always set up my rig the night before with a significant amount of care in a well-lit place. I also know that I don't have any pets to contribute hair and I usually assemble things in the same environment.
On a vacation, one might feel short on time and the assembly environment might not be optimal. Some people get rushed or try to set up their camera right before the day's diving. This can lead to errors.
Most housing floods that I have personally seen have been attributed to user error and lack of attention to detail during assembly. I'm not saying that you did anything wrong, but if a housing only fails twice out of many dives with similar profiles, then its probably not the housing, its probably the user.
I've used Oly housings (C-5060) and Ikelite housings (C-5060 and D80). I also have several Canon housings (SD800 and G9). The Ike housings are definitely a better design, although the Oly housing was sufficient.
jcclink said not to "grease" the o-ring with anything. I think that the Oly o-ring does require lube, although it may be a special lube provided or sold by Olympus. If the instructions say to lube, then do it. I usually wipe the length of the o-ring with a lint free cloth, being careful not to stretch it. I then put some lube between my thumb and forefinger and gently pull the o-ring through it, once again being careful not to stretch it. I put a very light coating on the o-ring. I remove any specks or fibers. I use the lint free cloth to wipe the housing o-ring channels clean before reinstalling.
I've kept my housings latched shut for months at a time with no ill effect. It is not good to leave them latched for plane flights because some of the air can diffuse out of the housing during the low pressure trip in the plane's cargo hold creating a vaccuum that can make it difficult to open the housing. That's my only issue with leaving it latched.
Good luck on your next camera.
David
underwaterpaparazzo.blogspot.com
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I have to disagree. I have been using a PT-15 for years with no problems. Oly red Orings should be greased using the approved grease. Not lubing them is a sure way to cause a flood. I have not had my hands on a 350 housing but if it's like my 5050 housing, there are 2 orings, one of which slides past it's mating surface when closing the housing. If that oring and surface is not lubricated it will cause the oring to roll, a sure way to flood a housing. On some housing, like Ikelites, grease is not required but on Olys (assuming it's like my pt-15) it must be greased. I will agree that using the wrong grease is a bad idea.
OP- you do need to find out what is causing the flooding. Considering the vast majority of flooding are caused by the diver and not the housing, it's likely something you are doing. My guess there is something in the Oring mating surfaces or the oring is binding due to improper lubrication. Remove the Orings, clean the mating surfaces and closely inspect the housing. I use a magnifying glass every time I inspect the Orings and mating surfaces. Gently stretch the Orings looking for tears and nicks. If you find nothing, lube and reinstall the Orings and take the housing on a dive without the camera and push every button and move every knob. Hopefully you will find the problem.
OP
divebrasil
Contributor
Guys, thanks so much for all the suggestions. I will definitely try them to find out where the problem is.
Regards
Regards
Matt_canadensis
Registered
Olympus make a small waterproof / shockproof camera. I'd pick one of those up as a backup. That's what I use for diving, its not great but anything is better then nothing. I like not having to worry about a separate case
OP
divebrasil
Contributor
Yes, I have seen some of those. There is another brand making those two.
I agree, something is better than nothing. Specially when you are diving with 6 10ft bull sharks.
arrrgh!!!!!!
I agree, something is better than nothing. Specially when you are diving with 6 10ft bull sharks.
arrrgh!!!!!!
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