G-15

[Interceptor121]

It is a script for CHDK that is definitely available for the g12
May take some time to port CHDK on the G15

 

[rks]

I don't think the Ikelite has a full TTL meter independent from the camera? It will still need the camera to determine if the exposure is correct or not. The internal flash and the optical connection are faster than then TTL circuitry that has 4 ms response time by design (this is where the 1/250 comes from) unless it is a new fast version
Anyway it there is no point testing in manual to determine if it would do it correctly or not and I think you can apply my hack for the S95 also on the G15 as it works with the S100 and S110 and enable TTL in manual

This is the same if the external strobe is being quenched via an electronic cable or a fibre optic cable. Your original post (I think one of those that was deleted) stated that wired TTL wasn't sufficient and that optical worked faster/better. As you state here the manner in which it functions has nothing to do with where the fire/quench signal comes from, that is entirely up to the design of the flash.

I just sent my DS125 off to be upgraded to a DS160 (mmm, more power, and LED aiming light) when it returns I'll run some tests against higher shutter speeds, but as I stated above, and I think is obvious this has nothing to do with wired/optical trigger, and everything to do with the flash itself.

 

[Interceptor121]

I am a bit lost about this conversation anyway
Digital compact cameras like the G15 have electronic shutter
Proper SLR cameras actually have real shutters
Wired TTL strobes are designed for compatibility with real shutter cameras, that typically work until 1/250 or in some cases 1/500
Some wired TTL strobes have fast sync signals and work at faster speeds the ikelite typically don't, I don't have one but I have read some tests where the point before is confirmed (max 1/500 or less for some models)

The TTL not quenching fast enough is not an issue for sync speed but it is for exposure

What is the max shutter speed your camera gives you in shutter priority?

 

[rks]

I am a bit lost about this conversation anyway
Digital compact cameras like the G15 have electronic shutter
Proper SLR cameras actually have real shutters
Wired TTL strobes are designed for compatibility with real shutter cameras, that typically work until 1/250 or in some cases 1/500
Some wired TTL strobes have fast sync signals and work at faster speeds the ikelite typically don't, I don't have one but I have read some tests where the point before is confirmed (max 1/500 or less for some models)

The TTL not quenching fast enough is not an issue for sync speed but it is for exposure

What is the max shutter speed your camera gives you in shutter priority?

Are you responding to my statements or someone elses?

I made a comment that I preferred the reliability of a wired strobe, your message (now missing) stated a number of things, which I then divided (along with my statements) into a list of facts and opinions. One of the ones I couldn't clarify and asked you for further information one was a statement that Wired TTL is dead, and that fiber was the future, because wired TTL has a limit of 1/250 or 1/500 of a second. My response was that that limit had nothing to do with TTL but had to do with mechanical shutters, and the time at which the shutter is completely open, I posted a link to a great writeup by some person on why that was and how it worked. You persisted that you could go faster with optical sync. I am persisting in trying to understand why you could go faster with TTL on optical than you could on wired. So far you've said nothing that makes me believe that is true.

 

[coralcruiser]

Got word that the press release for the Nuaticam housing will be coming up pretty soon. The housing will have a round port and they're supposed to have a solution for using it with a WA wet lens!!

I'm sitting here on pins and needles hoping it will come out and be in my hands before I leave on my March trip... but if not, then I will be looking forward to using it on my June trip.

 

[James R]

You can get a round port on the fix g12 housing with 67mm threads, so I expect the nauticam g15 will have them.

 

[coralcruiser]

You can get a round port on the fix g12 housing with 67mm threads, so I expect the nauticam g15 will have them.

It will have a round port. will see if I can edit my post to say will have instead of should have

 

[Carol202]

I've gotten a few dives in with my new G15 with Ikelite housing and DS161 strobe. It's a real learning curve from the Oly C5050 I've used for many years. I didn't expect the lens to have so much of a wider angle than I was used to with my Oly. The good is that I can move in closer to big critters to fill the screen, so less back scatter. The bad news is I have to move in closer to critters to fill the screen and some critters don't like that. LOL. At least the higher resolution lets me do a little more cropping than I could do with my old 5MP Oly. I haven't tried my two Inon lenses with it yet. I ordered the adapter that slides over the original port that comes with the G15 Ikelite housing, but I also ordered the optional port with the 67mm threads on it. On my first dive, it was shallow and bright and most of my photos were overexpsed. It took me until the next dive to realize I had the exposure control on top of the camera. After playing with that, I am getting fewer over exposures. One thing that is bothering my on the G15 is the viewfinder seems to be very dark, even though I have it set to the brightest setting. It brightens up for a moment when I focus on my subject, but it can make it very difficult to find the subject. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Here are photos from my first few dives using the standard port, camera set for macro, and using my strobe on TTL: Florida Keys Underwater Photo Gallery by Carol 202 at pbase.com

 

[coralcruiser]

. One thing that is bothering my on the G15 is the viewfinder seems to be very dark, even though I have it set to the brightest setting. It brightens up for a moment when I focus on my subject, but it can make it very difficult to find the subject. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Here are photos from my first few dives using the standard port, camera set for macro, and using my strobe on TTL: Florida Keys Underwater Photo Gallery by Carol 202 at pbase.com

Do you have the flash in the up position all the time. When playing with it in the store, I noticed that if the flash was not up (set to any power setting), then the lcd was very dark until I started to focus. Once I had the flash up, the lcd was fine all the time.

 

[Carol202]

I figured out the dark viewfinder. I was using a feature that magnifies the area you are focused on. One I removed that, I no longer had the problem with the dark LCD. Still learning more about this camera. I was having focus problems when I zoomed in on macro mode. Then I noticed the last part of the zoom bar that shows up on the screen has a yellow portion. As soon as I zoom into that portion, I lose my macro flower symbol. That means I have to be careful to not zoom into the yellow zone and that takes a little practice. My photos are getting better as I go along, and I am learning that there are some advantages to being able to shoot at a wider angle than I could with my old camera. I got my best photo of a gag grouper, and that photo is going to end up in a couple of books and apps.