Galapagos - Ecuadorean Presidential Decree

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I can hardly wait... I will let y'all know how the Encantada is. I can say that, thus far, both travel agent and dive boat have been falling over themselves to offer any preparatory accommodations/help possible.

Yet another (older) article, this one about the fishermen in Galapagos--perhaps old news to some, but it does give us short-timers some perspective on the various pressures the islands themselves are experiencing.

http://jc-research.com/jim/galapagos/pepino.html
 
Chris, thanks for the post that is an awesome write-up....I'm so excited to experience exactly what you describe! Question about the hammers, aren't they there for breeding or to be cleaned? Do you ever see them eat anything or act aggressively? From the videos I've seen they seem completely disinterested in the divers in the water... Do the Galapagos or Silkies behave in the same mold?
 
The hammers go in for cleaning, not sure about mating. King angels and butterflyfish clean them. I don't recall seeing them eating anything, I believe they often swim low over the sand using their flat head to scan for smaller critters hiding in the sand.

Hammers want nothing to do with divers. If you want to get up close and personal, you'll have to get far away from the group of divers, and basically hide behind a rock holding your breath. They're very shy

Silkies are more curious, I have heard that they will approach and circel if you are alone. In fact, one of our group got "lost" for about an hour, had a bunch of silkies take an interest in him, he removed his wieght belt and was swatting at them. I know another guy who had to back up to another diver tank to tank on a SS as the silkies circled. But they never really do anything, as far as I know. More pelagic /ow sharks

Galapagos are just big lumberers, they don't care that you are there. They'll just swim right by, but I mean RIGHT by! :)
 
I booked my Deep Blue trip with Galapagos Adventures, who were adequate. Have to admit that the other passengers were all totally extreme in their views of the agency - they either loved or hated them with no real middle ground, so I guess its just whether you catch them on a good day or not. But I had a problem with the local group - I don't recall the name but there is only one crowd who deal with the boat in Quito, who Galapagos Adventures effectively books with - even though I was in Quito, I found it impossible to get hold of them let alone organise anything through them. This particularly compared to Guide2Galapagos who I booked another trip through, and who really did bend over backwards to organise my trip.

But in any case, I would still have no hesitation in recommending the Deep Blue as the baot is so well run, and at the end of the day that is more important!

We were really lucky and had plenty of whale shark sightings, which I almost expected to be a disappointment as I had such high expectations - but honestly the sense of awe when you see them is just amazing.

I never saw any hammers eat anything or behave aggressively. We did have a few sharks (silkies mainly I think) circle our panga with fins above the water (I thought that only happened in films!) when we had trouble starting our motor one afternoon, but that was the most aggressive thing I saw. A lot of time was spent hiding behind the rocks as quietly as possible so the sharks would approach, as soon as they noticed you they would generally move away. I didn't do a trip report but it definitely exceeded my expectations in every way!

Two things to note, the first is that I was a little nervous of the conditions as I'd heard it was a really tough place to dive and I wasn't as experienced as most of the others on the trip. I don't know if we were just lucky with the conditions, but it really wasn't as hard as I expected - you do need gloves for the rocks and obviously watch your depth carefully if you are following a whale shark (we probably all went deeper than intended at some point).

The second is that although we had a fantastic dive trip, it was just that. There were a few land excursions, but to get the best diving you can't do many land excursions. The islands are awesome on land as well - I spent a week on the Nemo II doing land excursions with a few dives, then a week on the Deep Blue doing dives with a few land excursions and it was definitely worth doing both.

Have fun!
 
Question: Have any of you ever sold your dive gear to the boat/dive operator so as not to have to carry it home?
 
Guido, thanks for the report...sounds like you had a great experience with ideal conditions...another question, did you happen to dive with the seals as well, or was there snorkeling you could do from the boat and shore with them...do they really try and take your fins off?


Here is an updated article I found today from the IGTOA
Travel Organization Urges Tough Measures On Galapagos

May 14, 2007 — By the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association

ITHACA, N.Y. — The International Galapagos Tour Operators Association (IGTOA), in its annual meeting last week in Guayaquil, Ecuador, expressed alarm over the future of the Galapagos Islands and called for strict controls on development. The meeting included representatives from the travel industry, Galapagos National Park, Charles Darwin Foundation, and other conservation organizations.

"The Galapagos Islands are at a critical turning point, and decisions taken now will determine whether its fragile terrestrial and marine ecosystems can survive human impact," stated IGTOA's Executive Director, David Blanton. He said, "The future of Galapagos rests on science, conservation, education, and proper management, but these have not kept pace with the growth of tourism and human settlement."

IGTOA agrees with UNESCO and the Charles Darwin Foundation in their recent assessment of threats to Galapagos. IGTOA warns that unregulated tourism, unchecked migration, and over-development are causing unprecedented pressure on the islands and that urgent action is needed.

Tourism demand, according to IGTOA, has greatly increased during the past several years, while administrative control has been lacking. Political interests weakened the Galapagos National Park, with a dozen Park Directors in a three year period. Much of recent tourism growth, IGTOA says, has occurred outside of a regulated system of smaller live-aboard boats. Hotels, land-based tours, and day trips, have grown without proper planning or control. A large cruise ship was permitted to enter the Marine Reserve, a new airport was constructed, illegal immigration was allowed to continue, and personnel for invasive species control declined over this period.

IGTOA applauds recent declarations of support by Ecuador's President Correa and calls for a moratorium on the construction of new hotel space, airports, and new types of recreational tourist activities until such time as the Ecuadorian government, conservation organizations, and the travel industry can create a strategy for going forward. In the meantime, IGTOA urges that large cruise ships, such as the 500-passenger Discovery currently visiting Galapagos, be prohibited from the Galapagos Marine Reserve.

IGTOA asks travelers to be selective in their choice of tour operators, to avoid large cruise ships, to look for companies practicing responsible tourism, and to be willing to contribute more toward conservation.

IGTOA (www.igtoa.org) is a nonprofit association of travel companies, conservation organizations, and other groups that are dedicated to the complete and lasting protection of the Galapagos Islands and the surrounding Marine Reserve. It has tour company members worldwide in the US, Canada, UK, France, Australia, and Ecuador. IGTOA member companies are actively involved in conservation fundraising and the spread of responsible tourism.

The Galapagos Islands, which Charles Darwin visited on a voyage as a young man, were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. The Marine Reserve was added in 2001. The islands are home to plants and animals found nowhere else on earth, including giant tortoises, from which the islands get their name. They lie about 600 miles off the Ecuadorian coast in the Pacific Ocean.

Contact Info:

David Blanton
Executive Director
International Galapagos Tour Operators Association
Tel : 607-351-1120
E-mail : exd@igtoa.org
 
There were plenty of sea lions generally, but more on land to be honest. I think its a reflection of the location - Wolf and Darwin, where we did most diving, didn't seem to have them as far as I recall.

We did dive with sea lions on our check-out dive, and in one or two other spots we snorkelled or dove with them. They are very playful and do really do the things people say, like blowing bubbles at divers (its much harder to engage with them as a snorkeller!) and swimming rings around you, and they are very entertaining.

One thing I was disappointed by was that I'd heard the penguins were amazing to watch in the water, but we saw very few at all - numbers are way down after el nino apparently. I guess we were lucky we saw the few we did...
 
EnronX:
Chris, thanks for the post that is an awesome write-up....I'm so excited to experience exactly what you describe! Question about the hammers, aren't they there for breeding or to be cleaned? Do you ever see them eat anything or act aggressively? From the videos I've seen they seem completely disinterested in the divers in the water... Do the Galapagos or Silkies behave in the same mold?


Just on an aside, we were told by the crew never to ascend alone - apparently silkies do get curious and will come and 'bump' divers who are alone. I never saw it, but apparently you do have to be very wary of the silkies there. Odd, as they were far from being the biggest beasts in the water!!
 
Oh man, that is interesting to hear...are Silkies known by a different name, are they more like a White-tip reef shark?

Aside from the Whale Sharks and the big Hammers, are the Galapagos Sharks the next largest "beasts" you came across on your trip. I haven't really read much about diver seeing other species of whales in the Galapagos other than Whale Sharks.

Oh yeah, after watching that stupid movie Open Water, I don't ever ascend alone!
 
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