Galapagos vs. Cocos??? Anyone done both???

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mjh

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Given current threads would be great to get feedback from anyone that has dove both. Especially if they dove Cocos during the “rainy season” and Galapagos during the “whale shark” season. Of course understanding things change day to day. When we went during the rainy season to Cocos we had very calm seas to the point the crew was surprised.

Would be interested in:
1. Water temps between the two?
2. What kind of wetsuit?
3. Compare currents when hanging on rocks ?
4. Number of hammer heads, G vs C?
5. Assume you see way more whale sharks in Galapagos?
6. Surface conditions, estimate on wave size and air temps?
7. How rough is it when the boats are moored for the night?
8. Sealife seen at one that you did not see at the other?

Of course any other observations are welcome.
 
1. Water temps between the two?
2. What kind of wetsuit?

This is my reply to a post on the Cruises, Liveaboats...forum:

I've never dived Galapagos with less than 5mm (7mm was better) - I've gone in May, twice in October and once in November. In the Northern Islands, I've typically seen mid-70s, mid to hi 60s in the Central and Southern Islands, and as low as lo 50s in the Western Islands.

In Cocos, I've never had to use more than 3mm - I've gone three times in July and once in September. When I've run into a themocline in Cocos, it's usually been lo 70s, but of course, when you go from 80 to lo 70s, 72 feels more like 50.


3. Compare currents when hanging on rocks ?
When hanging on the rocks, about the same on average and when they're at their strongest. But when drifting, I've seen more difficult u/w conditions in the Galapagos than in Cocos: current combined with a lot of surge, and up and down current.


4. Number of hammer heads, G vs C?
Definitely Cocos. Also, there are multiple divesites where you have a chance to see more than 100. Of course, if they keep poaching them the way they've been, then who knows. In the Galapagos, I've only seen more than 100 in Wolf and Darwin, smaller packs elsewhere.


5. Assume you see way more whale sharks in Galapagos?
More AND bigger.


6. Surface conditions, estimate on wave size and air temps?
I've seen some huge rollers (>6 ft) at Darwin that I've never seen in Cocos. I suppose anything is possible. I have seen some rough seas in Cocos but usually 6 ft. or less. Somehow the water seems more churned up in Galapagos than in Cocos, and as a result, I've tended to feel more uneasy in Galapagos than in Cocos when riding out to the divesites - that of course, could be in part due to the fact that in Cocos I ride in rather stable ~25 ft. fiberglass tenders, whereas in the Galapagos, I ride in ~15 ft. inflatables.

Air temps: for those specific timeframes, Galapagos always felt cooler. If I had to guess, I'd say temps as low as mid to hi 70s in Galapagos vs. lo 80s in Cocos. Even if it weren't colder, it surely feels like it, maybe from the body being chilled after doing multiple dives in the colder waters of the Galapagos.


7. How rough is it when the boats are moored for the night?
The moorings at Chatham Bay in Cocos are usually dead calm. In Galapagos, there are many anchorages due to the many islands that you visit, and it varies from dead calm to slight chop - nonetheless, I don't recall a rough night at anchor.


8. Sealife seen at one that you did not see at the other?
Cocos: Silvertips, Humpback Whales (a stroke of luck: don't count on this)

Galapagos: sea lions, penguins, marine iguanas, Golden Cownose Rays, Mola-Molas, seahorses. Horn shark, Long-Nose Hawkfish

There are a number of fish species that are endemic to each place - far for me to be able to name them.

might add that there are probably seahorses in Cocos - perhaps they are not widely reported because they camouflage well and because they don't tend to hang out in the blue, which is where most divers are fixated on.
 
I've also been in both places. Both of them in May. I concur 99% with the excellent summary provided by Manuel Sam. Particularly with currents, temps and surface sea conditions.

Only point in dispute is with the mola molas reference under "sealife". Didn't see any in Galapagos and never heard anybody who dove there (know personally about a dozen divers) that mentioned anything about them. I had a short glimpse of one of them in Nusa Penida, Bali. But that's another story.

However, Manuel's been in Galapagos more times than I and he sure knows the place better than myself.
 
Only point in dispute is with the mola molas reference under "sealife". Didn't see any in Galapagos and never heard anybody who dove there (know personally about a dozen divers) that mentioned anything about them. I had a short glimpse of one of them in Nusa Penida, Bali. But that's another story.

We saw mola mola last August in the South at Punte Vicente Roca but it is hard to get close to them.

Ralph
 
Punta Vicente Roca, on the western shore of Isabela, is also where we had three different sightings of Mola-Molas on our October 2007 trip. This site is often called the Icebox. It's always been in the lo to mid-50's when I dove it.

As Rcohn observed, they are very skittish. Hiding in the rocks and letting them come in to get cleaned works best.

However, with liveaboard trips for the most part now limited to 7 days and with no deviations allowed on itineraries set by the Galapagos National Park, my guess is that it doesn't get dived that much anymore by liveaboards.
 
Thank guys for the info about Mola molas.

Good news: I know they can be found in Galapagos and, also, where to find them. Bad news: I'll never dive in Punta Vicente Roca if temperatures are around 50's. No way.
 
Mola Mola in Galapagos ? Yes, I saw one this past August. Got it on video. Watch here at the 2:15 mark.


[vimeo]6407547[/vimeo]
 
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Most of you folks who have posted to this thread are fairly experienced divers, I think, so you have probably learned from past experience that the oceans that we dive are not an aquarium. But just in case, and for the benefit of other readers who might take what I wrote at face value, let me temper future expectations by assuring you that the sightings that I described in my replies did not happen on every single trip. In fact, the best of it happened in one trip to Cocos and one trip to the Galapagos. The Georgia Aquarium is about the only place - a pretty amazing place, I might add - where the sightings are guaranteed (minus the Mola-Mola, that is).....but I digress.

So bear with me as I give you a little of my history. My first trip to the Galapagos was in May 2001 - it was a 10-day trip and I went there with great expectations, but came home with no whalesharks, some - not a lot - of hammerheads, and didn't see, and didn't even know that there were Mola-Molas. Still had a lot of fun seeing stuff I'd never seen before both underwater and on land.

My second trip was a 12-day trip in late November of the same year. No whalesharks but saw a lot more hammerheads - sometimes over 100 in Darwin. Due to the expanded itinerary, we were able to visit and dive Punta Vicente Roca. We were told that there were mola-molas but no one had an idea of where to look. Many of us chose to bypass the 58-degree peasoup at the surface and proceeded to 110 ft. in super-clear, 53-degree waters to see the red-lipped batfish. Then back near the surface, we got to play with sea lions. And that was pretty much it for my first experience with the Icebox. Still a really fun trip with lots of new stuff seen and new islands visited.

Having struck out on the first two tries, I then chose a 7-day early October 2005 trip, figuring that it was better aligned with the prime whaleshark time. I was beyond ecstatic when we were told upon boarding the boat that there had been 15 whaleshark sightings on the trip immediately before ours, and over a dozen the one before. It was our luck, however, that the currents were reversed on our week - in fact they were outright crazy one day at Darwin: in a span of probably less than two minutes, we went from 40 ft. to 90s, back to 40, back to 90s, before finally getting out of that yoyo. The surge at the Landslide at Wolf would carry us a good 20 ft. one way and 20 ft. the other way. In the end, no whalesharks, but still decent hammerheads and still a very enjoyable trip.

Which brings me to 2007 - a truly magical year, I think - maybe because it was also a La Niña year. I did my third trip to Cocos in July that year, a 12-day charter. Over a hundred hammerheads just about anywhere you went. After the trip, I remember freeze-framing thru one scene shot at Alcyone and counted over 200 hammerheads overhead. Cocos is not known for a lot of whalesharks but on that trip some people saw 15, including a doubleheader at Dirty Rock. And of course we also had the humpback and calf resting for 3 days in Chatham Bay, at times cruising back and forth out of the bay.

In October of that year, I was very fortunate to join a 10-day charter to the Galapagos. I wrote a trip report that you can search for in this forum. In four days in the Northern Islands, there were over 30 whaleshark sightings. There was a video sequence shot by one of the DMs that showed almost 2 plus part of a third in one frame. From there, we moved down to Punta Vicente Roca, and it was in two dives there that we had the 3 mola-molas, along with the horn-shark, the seahorse, and we also got to swim with penguins. One of the mola-mola sightings was at a cleaning station at not more than 45 ft. When it was sighted, we all took cover in the rocks, and the thing just stayed there virtually motionless as it was cleaned. I was no more than 6 ft away from it, clicking away with flash and all with my point-and-shoot, and the thing remained there unphased. But, all it took was one guy swimming towards it to get a closer shot, and it was gone. And yes, Arturo, sadly for you, it was around 53 degrees.

Bottom line, especially as it relates to the original post with regards to which is better: again, sightings are not guaranteed. Regardless of the criteria for choosing one destination over the other, the results can still flip-flop back and forth because there are too many variables at play. What the above diatribe attempts to illustrate is that you can improve your chances by picking a good year and a good time of the year, and by hopefully having good guides who know where the animals are and will get you there, and who have good eyes. And then you pray a lot, because nothing beats good luck.
 
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