getting started / need advise

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greyface

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St. Augustine, Fl
Hi folks - Seeing all the wonderful pictures on this forum has inspired me to at least try to capture some of the marvels of our underwater world. I'm starting out with a Nikon CP 4300, & a Fantasea CP4 Pro housing. Just got the housing yesterday. I put a 2lb. weight (wrapped in a paper towel) in the housing, and took it to the bottom of the LDS pool. (13') Left it there on the bottom for 30 min, while I worked on line reel skills. Post dive check showed no leaks. I guess it's safe to take the camera for a test run to depth. A couple (1st of many, I'm sure) of dumb questions: How/when do I use the no-fog that came with the housing? How important is it to use silicone grease on the seal? Any idea if/how much weight it would take to make it neutral? Thanks in advance for your time!
 
greyface:
How/when do I use the no-fog that came with the housing?
I wouldn't use it at all. Use silica gel dessicant paks instead. I buy mine from Preserve Smart. If the no-fog stuff works, all it does is address the result, not the cause of the fogging. Like using de-fog in your mask, it doesn't eliminate it, it just keeps the condensation off the glass. That condensation will collect as water drops and that's the last thing you want inside your housing.

The condensation (fog) is a result of the inside of the housing getting warmer than the outside environment from the heat of your camera and the result is a condensation of the humidity inside the housing. Just like your car windows fogging up in the winter. The dessicant paks will absorb the moisture inside the housing. That doesn't mean it will absorb water, it won't. I'm talking about the humidity moisture. The dessicant paks I buy have a small window in the back where you can see the crystals turn from blue when it's fresh to pink when it's spent. You can then revitalize them in a low oven for a few hours.

How important is it to use silicone grease on the seal?
Are you talking about an o-ring seal? There's alot of different opinions on this one. I think it's very important to keep the o-ring lubricated, just don't over do it. Use just enough silicone grease to make the o-ring shiny, don't glob it on as it can then attack and hold sand and debris. Also be careful not to stretch the o-ring as you grease it. I do this maintenance on my housing every evening when I have time to do it properly without being rushed.

Any idea if/how much weight it would take to make it neutral?
No way to even guess without knowing how much the camera weighs. My Olympus housing came with a counter weight that screws into the tripod mounting on the bottom of the housing. I would guess it's about 6oz. But yours may need more or less, depending on how big the housing is, how much air space there is around the camera and how much your camera weighs.
 
Can't add much to what Dee said but I think that the info about the de-fog & dessicant should be up in the MUST KNOW file so everyone can see it as it seems to be a very common question. The link for where to get the stuff is helpful too IMHO.

I always check my o-rings when I open the housing. Depending on where the camera has been, this will either mean a visual and tactile check of the orings without removing them or complete removal and check. I used to religiously remove the orings each time, but am finding that in some of my uses it seems to be unnessary and is most likely doing more harm than good. I guess I would still say that until you are 100% confident you know what it is supposed to look like and feel like, remove 'em and check 'em and clean 'em and lightly grease them. Shiny not lumpy or sticky/gooey.

As for the neutral thing...I would guess the manufacturer makes the system more or less neutral already - they should be able to tell you. I find my Oly, with the weight, is still slightly positive in the ocean (negative in my wash box) but very suited to me.
 
I would strongly recommend that you test dive the housing to at least 33 ft without the camera. Work all the controls - rotate, push in & out, any way they can move. It is sometimes possible that a housing will pass a static pressure test like in a pool or pressure tank without movement of controls, but could fail a dynamic test where all the controls are actually moved. I had this happen once long time ago. Since than I always do a dynamic pressure test on a new housing, or after I change o-rings. This blows off a dive but its worth the confidence factor & could save a camera.
 
Thanks for the replies and tips. Advise well taken. I'm looking forward to my next dive, a couple of wrecks off of Daytona, next Sat. Hopfully have some images to share...
 
The fantasea housing uses a different type of gasket. DO NOT GREASE IT.

I'm about to order the housing. Did it come with a strobe diffuser or deflector?
 

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