Help in choosing strobe system

[Fastmarc]

Hi all,
I'm in need of some help to choose which strobe option to get. Since I have very little experience with underwater photography, I find this all very confusing, so forgive me if these questions are many and silly.
I presently have a Sony DSC-S60 with an Ikelite housing and wanted to get a strobe for it. My camere does not support TTL.
Because I have an Ikelite housing, I was looking at the DS-125, but I was also looking at the Inon D-2000. The thing is I am unsure as to whether the Inon can be used with my housing.
I also noticed that these 2 strobes get triggered in different ways. The Inon uses a optic cable system while the Ikelite uses a sensor that is pointed to the camera's flash. Is there an advantage of one over another?
Then there is the questions of the types of arms. Are the arms with the ball joints easy to move? For instance, if it was set up for macro and I saw something swimming past, would it be able to reposition quick enough to take a shot? A friend suggested that what he was going to do is set it up where it can be quick-released and mostly hold the strobe in his hand which would greatly improve his flexibility. That just sounds like a lot of work to me.
I have every intention at upgrading to a dslr as soon as I can, so I wanted to make sure I get a good strobe for the long haul.
Any guidance you all could give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dbh]

Yes, the Inon D2000 can be used with your current housing. However, I don't think it can be fired with a sync cord, which you will need for a DSLR.

If you were to keep the system that you have now, I would pick the Inon over the Ikelite. I think that the Clear Film System works better than the EV sensor.

In the Inon line, I would look at the Z240. The Ikelite DS-125 is a very nice strobe too. I would also look at the new Sea & Sea Ys-110.

I use the ULCS arms. They are very manuverable underwater if you have the tension set properly. Most people overtighten them.

HTH,
Dave

 

[gert7to3]

Here's a strobe comparison link:


http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

 

[alcina]

I use locline arms and have for ages. I've used them with both my compact and slr rigs.

They are cheap, easy to move around and I love to pop them off so I can stick the strobe head somewhere I couldn't if it was on a different system.

I'd guess one day, eventually, I'll move to ULCS. But for now, the loclines work just dandy.

 

[Fastmarc]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.
I did come across the link for comparisons, but a lot of it flew over my head. Still learning what does what.
I'll do a search for ULCS.

 

[bobf]

..........but a lot of it flew over my head. Still learning what does what..........

The Strobe Finder lists specifications in up to 29 fields for each of the 55+ strobes now found in the database. The specs are compiled from manufacturers published literature. When visiting the Strobe Finder, you'll notice that some of the field headings found after choosing one or more strobes to compare are shown in blue fonts. Those particular fields are linked to definitions explaining the field name, available by clicking on that particular blue link. For instance, by clicking on the field named Pre-Flash compatibility, you will find this explanation:

Pre-flash compatibility refers to how, or if, a strobe is able to handle the 'pre-flash' generated by a digital camera. Most digital cameras fire one or more very brief flashes of the onboard flash, which aid the camera in determining exposure and white balance for a given scene. It is important to remember that these preflashes and the resulting calculations take place in just a fraction of a second, immediately prior to capturing the image.

Strobes built prior to the advent of digital cameras, whether they are triggered optically or electrically fire on the first trigger event that they detect. With digital cameras, that is the pre-flash. Once these older strobes have fired, many cannot recycle quickly enough to fire again for the main exposure (remember, we're talking about milliseconds), making them un-suitable for use with digital cameras.

The good news for owners of these 'legacy' strobes is that many digital cameras include the option of turning off the pre-flash, also known as 'slave mode'. Legacy strobes can, in most cases, function with digital cameras that have a 'hot shoe' or 'PC' connector which supply an electrical signal to external strobes. Another option for users of some legacy strobes is the digital adapter manufactured by Matthias Heinrichs (See the Specialized Compatibility section below).

Manufacturers of modern digital strobes have addressed the issue of preflash compatibility in one of two ways, either by mimicking the pre-flash, or ignoring it. Some models even offer the option to do either. Models that mimic the preflash are capable of ultra-quick recycle times needed to fire the pre-flash, and then fire again for the image capture.

If anyone has questions pertaining to any of the information fields, please feel free to ask. I'm sure we all at one time or another also wondered what what was meant by a Guide Number, Angle of Coverage, or Energy rating of a strobe.

regards,
b

 

[Fastmarc]

Thanks. I didn't notice the blue highlighting.

 

[Jamdiver]

Hi all,
I'm in need of some help to choose which strobe option to get. Since I have very little experience with underwater photography, I find this all very confusing, so forgive me if these questions are many and silly.
I presently have a Sony DSC-S60 with an Ikelite housing and wanted to get a strobe for it. My camere does not support TTL.
Because I have an Ikelite housing, I was looking at the DS-125, but I was also looking at the Inon D-2000. The thing is I am unsure as to whether the Inon can be used with my housing.
I also noticed that these 2 strobes get triggered in different ways. The Inon uses a optic cable system while the Ikelite uses a sensor that is pointed to the camera's flash. Is there an advantage of one over another?
Then there is the questions of the types of arms. Are the arms with the ball joints easy to move? For instance, if it was set up for macro and I saw something swimming past, would it be able to reposition quick enough to take a shot? A friend suggested that what he was going to do is set it up where it can be quick-released and mostly hold the strobe in his hand which would greatly improve his flexibility. That just sounds like a lot of work to me.
I have every intention at upgrading to a dslr as soon as I can, so I wanted to make sure I get a good strobe for the long haul.
Any guidance you all could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Ching, Ching...... there goes the wallet .

As to your question can't really answer it, since I have very little first hand experience with strobes.
But what I can say is that both would work well with your camera.
The Inon's and Ikelite are both well-recommended.
Ikelite has fantastic service also, so if your ever need maintenance or a part replaced you can count on them.

Your best bet is access the links that bobf noted, the digitaldiver strobe finder is a good starting point.
As well as taking a look through the specific strobe related subforums on Digitaldiver and wetpixel

 

[Fastmarc]

Ching, Ching...... there goes the wallet .

LOL.....
Thanks Jam.
Click here for Marc's strobe donation fund.
Coming soon: Marc's DSLR fund.

 

[Jamdiver]

LOL.....
Thanks Jam.
Click here for Marc's strobe donation fund.
Coming soon: Marc's DSLR fund.

Lol, hey that link carried me to NCB's website :14:..

But seriously, don't know where you plan to purchase your strobe.
But a good store with knowledgeable, trained staff is Reef photo
Only an hour and change away in Fort lauderdale on the Iron bird ...