Help with UW photo accessories

[jwnca]

Hi all,

I've read various posts pertaining to cameras, housing, lens, and strobes. I have an Olympus D-550 zoom with the PT-009 housing and looking to expand.

In my research, it appears that an underwater photographer's first lens should be a wide angle. I've been looking at the UN PWC-01 Wide conversion lens.

For a tray and arm, I'm looking at FISHEYE New support tray and flexible arm set.

For the strobe, I’m seriously considering the Sea & Sea 90DX, but have seen recent posts that INON D-180 has better features. I understand that the INON D-2000 is the current model.

I'm especifically curious about peoples' thoughts on strobes, but also lens and tray/arms.


Thanks

 

[Dee]

Hi all,

I've read various posts pertaining to cameras, housing, lens, and strobes. I have an Olympus D-550 zoom with the PT-009 housing and looking to expand.

In my research, it appears that an underwater photographer's first lens should be a wide angle. I've been looking at the UN PWC-01 Wide conversion lens.

For a tray and arm, I'm looking at FISHEYE New support tray and flexible arm set.

For the strobe, I’m seriously considering the Sea & Sea 90DX, but have seen recent posts that INON D-180 has better features. I understand that the INON D-2000 is the current model.

I'm especifically curious about peoples' thoughts on strobes, but also lens and tray/arms.


Thanks

The order in which to add lenses is a personal choice. If you think you'll have more need of a wide angle than a macro, then by all means get that first. Just don't think there's some 'rule' to follow! I have a S&S WA 'L' lens. I chose it because there's no distortion around the edges like you'll see with some of the others.

I love my Fisheye tray and flexi arms. The arm is very easy to position yet stiff enough to stay where you put it. Another feature I like is I can snap the arm off and use the strobe as a handheld to get into some of those tight spots some critters seem to love. I've tried the other arms that are in jointed sections and I just didn't like them. They were heavier, harder to position and a pain to put together. My opinion only~

YS90DX or D-180 are both great strobes, I have one of each. I prefer the D-180 for it's size and they are both equally easier to use. They both use fiber optic connections. The YS90DX has a velcro mask that fits on the outside of the housing to hold the FO cable. One advantage to this is if for some reason your strobe doesn't work, you can remove the mask and use the internal flash. However with the D-180 there is a film mask that fits over the flash on the CAMERA inside the housing so if the strobe isn't working the internal flash can't be used. That said, I haven't had any problems with either strobe. If I was buying a strobe today, I would seriously consider the D-2000.

 

[jwnca]

However with the D-180 there is a film mask that fits over the flash on the CAMERA inside the housing so if the strobe isn't working the internal flash can't be used.

Dee, can you give a bit more detail on the mask for the D-180? The velcro on the 90DX, I understand. However, if the mask for the D-180 is inside the housing, how is the FO cable attached?

Thanks

 

[Warren_L]

With the D-180 or D-2000, it uses what they call the "clear photo" system. Basically, the black mask fits directly on top of the camera's internal flash with some tape and allows only non-visible light to get through. This light is sufficient to trigger the strobe through the fibre optic cable, which is attached to the diffiser via a small plastic clam that holds up to 2 fibre optic cable (for 2 strobes) that clamps onto the plastic diffuser on the outside of the PT housing.

I recently picked up a D-2000 as a 2nd strobe to my original D-180 and the combination worked great. Got some excellent results on my trip last week to Cozumel.

 

[herman]

In addition to Warrens post, it is not mandatory to use the flash mask. It's purpose is to reduce backscatter. As a novice with the D180 (first time UW will be tomorrow night) I am wondering if just turning down the flash level will accomplish almost the same results with and leave you the ability to turn it back up if you need it. As the Inon fiber connector just clamps to the outside of the housing on the PT-15 housing's built in flash defuser, it should be very easy to build a similar velcor flash blocker as the one the YS uses. While I am on the subject, Dee/Warren for macro shots would it not be better to use both internal and external strobes for better coverage?

 

[MsParamedic]

Can someone help with a source for lenses and lense docks please?

 

[Dee]

Warren gave an excellent description of the Inon mask. Visuaize a small cloth-like frame about 1/2" x 1" in size stuck to a slightly smaller piece of very dark red, almost black, plastic film. As the cameras internal flash goes through this film it's transferred into 'infre-red' light to trigger the strobe.

In addition to Warrens post, it is not mandatory to use the flash mask. It's purpose is to reduce backscatter. As a novice with the D180 (first time UW will be tomorrow night) I am wondering if just turning down the flash level will accomplish almost the same results with and leave you the ability to turn it back up if you need it. As the Inon fiber connector just clamps to the outside of the housing on the PT-15 housing's built in flash defuser, it should be very easy to build a similar velcor flash blocker as the one the YS uses.

I think any light coming from the internal flash will highlight backscatter, even on the lowest power. I know someone who combined the two systems and adpated a velcro patch to fit over the Inon cable clamp. I may try this on the next trip as there are some times I prefer the internal flash.

While I am on the subject, Dee/Warren for macro shots would it not be better to use both internal and external strobes for better coverage?

I don't think both are needed, not for macro shots. There are some instances, say within 12-14 away, where I prefer the internal flash for macro shots and some I prefer the strobe. In the cases where you think the strobe isn't enough, you'd do better to get a second strobe.

 

[alcina]

Excellent discussion so far! I love my Inon 220 - I went for this strobe instead of the 180 as it offered more manual settings and I like to manually set my strobe. That said, the choice today would probably be the new D2000 - it has even more manual settings and a good psuedo ttl from the reports.

As for lenses...get whichever you think you like better. This seems like obvious advice but until you really stop to think what you like to shoot it may be easier to just go with the majority. I prefer to shoot tiny things. I actually did get the WAL first due to some weird circumstances, but I have to say that my macro lenses get a lot more use. I have to force myself to shoot with the WAL...it just isn't my thing on a dive to dive basis.

I have the digital tray & handle from ULCS and really like them. The straight handle suits me perfectly. I use the locline system and at this stage wouldn't trade them. Do a search on the web for locline - buy them from the web site, not a camera shop and you'll save considerably. Like Dee said, you can twist and turn them any ol' way and even pop them off to get in those hard to reach places or for more lighting choices - I do this a lot!

I use my Inon with the Canon A series cameras I have, too. I do not use the little film cover over the internal flash - mostly because I forget to put it on! It lives on my Oly, I almost never remove it as I tend to use a different camera for my land needs.

I don't think reducing the power of the internal will completely eliminate backscatter caused by the internal, but it may reduce it a little because there is simply less light intensity. I don't use the internal flash...the manual settings on my strobe let me fire it from only cms away and not blow things out.

 

[herman]

"I think any light coming from the internal flash will highlight backscatter, even on the lowest power. I know someone who combined the two systems and adpated a velcro patch to fit over the Inon cable clamp. I may try this on the next trip as there are some times I prefer the internal flash."

I have made the a mount like the W5 for my strobe and I have room to simply slip a plastic cover under the mount and use the thumb screw to hold it on. If there is enough space on the W5 you should be able to side a piece of plastic under it.



"I don't think both are needed, not for macro shots. There are some instances, say within 12-14 away, where I prefer the internal flash for macro shots and some I prefer the strobe. In the cases where you think the strobe isn't enough, you'd do better to get a second strobe"


I was not thinking of not enough light but rather lighting angles. The ext strobe will be coming down from above-at least with the present mount I have, an Inon DIII and I was thinking the head on lighting from the internal strobe may improve/reduce the shadows when used in combination with the external strobe.

 

[Warren_L]

While I am on the subject, Dee/Warren for macro shots would it not be better to use both internal and external strobes for better coverage?

As Dee mentions, it depends on the shot and how you set it up, and what sort of effect you are going for. I haven't done much macro work extensively, so perhaps Alcina or Dee would be more versed in this area, but what I've been doing is using primarily the strobe for macro work when I want to achieve some interesting shadowing effects, and using the strobe in combination with the internal flash when I want more uniform lighting on the subject, as you suggested.