How much strobe is really necessary?

[Charlie99]

I should have read things more carefully, sorry!

A week ago I didn't have a clue as to what an "auto flash" is. Now I'm an expert.

I did probably 200 test shots if not 500 the first two days I had the strobe. Towards the end my wife was threatening me with bodily harm if the strobe went off in her face one more time while she's settled in watching TV.

Anywho...go to Yuzo info@naturephoto.co.jp and order an Inon 240 or similar

Yep. It all boils down to "get a real strobe" as the right answer.

 

[alcina]

I did probably 200 test shots if not 500 the first two days I had the strobe. Towards the end my wife was threatening me with bodily harm if the strobe went off in her face one more time while she's settled in watching TV.

LOL - I don't attempt to do that to DH. I use the kitties and puppies...the cats now run and hide whenever they see the toys come out

 

[jeepfifty]

Thanks! Looks like a full-on manual strobe (that ignores the first pre-flash) has a good area of coverage and enough power to really light the place up is the way to go. The plan isn't to stay cheap...just to not go crazy ...as usually happens when I start shopping around for new toys.

 

[alcina]

I have been remiss in not adding:

Always remember to check out the seller and the condition of the goods. For those ordering in the US, when you order some items from outside of the US they may be considered "gray market" items and this will impact warranty coverage and manufacturer support. It's up to you to check the warranty, repair and after purchase support and then decide if this is viable for your needs - it's no good complaining to the manufacturer afterwards that your warranty isn't valid!

I just assume that shoppers check things, but I have been gently reminded that this might not be the case I have also added the above to the Pink Link!

 

[pakman]

Thanks! Looks like a full-on manual strobe (that ignores the first pre-flash) has a good area of coverage and enough power to really light the place up is the way to go. The plan isn't to stay cheap...just to not go crazy ...as usually happens when I start shopping around for new toys.

jeep, as you are even considering an external strobe, it sounds like you take you uw photography a bit more serious than the casual p&s crowd, I would second dbh on getting something more on the advance side to further "future"proof yourself. I could see you upgrading your coolpix in a year or two to something that has more manual controls... Another thought is if you get a feel for how your camera handles custom settings (i.e., "sports", "portrait", "night time",etc) you could use those to "adjust" you camera. For instance, if you're finding that the shutter speed your camera is selecting is too slow, try switching to sports which tends to use a faster shutter speed...

I second the use of Uzo Kanda www.uwdigitalcamera.com (I bought most of my DSLR gear from him including 2 Z-240's) but then, I'm in HK so it's not that far from Japan if I need to ship them back for repairs. But given the HUGE mark up Inon America charges in the states, I think I would still buy from him if I was still in the States!!

 

[jeepfifty]

jeep, as you are even considering an external strobe, it sounds like you take you uw photography a bit more serious than the casual p&s crowd, I would second dbh on getting something more on the advance side to further "future"proof yourself. I could see you upgrading your coolpix in a year or two to something that has more manual controls... Another thought is if you get a feel for how your camera handles custom settings (i.e., "sports", "portrait", "night time",etc) you could use those to "adjust" you camera. For instance, if you're finding that the shutter speed your camera is selecting is too slow, try switching to sports which tends to use a faster shutter speed...

I second the use of Uzo Kanda www.uwdigitalcamera.com (I bought most of my DSLR gear from him including 2 Z-240's) but then, I'm in HK so it's not that far from Japan if I need to ship them back for repairs. But given the HUGE mark up Inon America charges in the states, I think I would still buy from him if I was still in the States!!

I think you have a good grip on what I'm looking for. Definitely a need for some future-proofing. The plan is to upgrade to a housed DSLR here at some point in the future...it's just more important for me to get in a position where I get to dive more first ...until then, good point on looking at the different modes to see what they do. A quick look at the EXIF numbers helps make everything make more sense.

Good info all around everyone!

 

[lifeisfullofgooddives]

I would definatly get the better strobe....

I currently am not going out as much while I save up for my Ike ds-125 for my sp350....this is alot of strobe for this camera but in the future when I get a housing for my Nikon D50 I won't be running out to get a new strobe!

 

[bobf]

I would definatly get the better strobe....

I currently am not going out as much while I save up for my Ike ds-125 for my sp350....this is alot of strobe for this camera but in the future when I get a housing for my Nikon D50 I won't be running out to get a new strobe!

You'll be happy to have a strobe for the sp 350 as powerful as a DS 125 when attempting to shoot into the sun if and when the sun becomes part of a background composition. The bright sun will require the need for a relatively small aperture along with a relatively fast shutter speed (sync may be an added issue) to insure the background is not blown out. Subsequently, in order to balance the foreground exposure, a great amount of artificial light will be necessary, especially considering the strobe light will have to pass through that same tiny aperture.

btw, my recommendation for the OP is to wait on a new strobe. I would first upgrade from the Coolpix S1 to a camera that allows the user manual control of the three most important components of exposure: aperture, shutter, and ISO. The S1 only offers the user control of ISO.