How to dive without a BC, what is a technique for good buoyancy during the dive?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Now to the part of actual diving. Without BC, I believe, it would be harder to maintain buoyancy. Are there any tips and tricks?

It can be done but how elegant you are depends on staying within the bounds of physics.

Start with the reason for a BC, it's to compensate for changes in buoyancy... clever name, huh? And what are those changes? First you will deplete your 80 CF air cylinder's weight by about 5 pounds on a dive. Then any neoprene will be subject to compression and buoyancy loss. Lastly any other junk that can trap air will become heavier during the dive as air escapes. These are the drivers behind a BC.

Now consider that most divers can vary their lung volume by breathing shallow or deep enough to effect a 5-6 pound buoyancy change. That number is pretty close to the change in cylinder weight over the dive. This means that neoprene needs to be minimal and stuff like BC padding and fuzzy dice want to stay on the beach.

With correct weighting and that other stuff limited you can begin your dive keeping your lungs a little full on average. This just means messing with your breathing patterns so you breathe deep and full then refill right away after exhaling. Your lungs must expand and contract but you want to have the AVERAGE volume be bigger. As you approach the middle of the dive you will be truly neutral and with a little propulsion or volume change your depth will drift wherever you want. it's an amazingly liberating feeling. Later in the dive as your cylinder gets light you will breath lightly for a lower AVERAGE lung volume and remain neutral this way.

The more neoprene you add the less elegant This becomes. First you need to start to "swim the dive". You will sometimes see in movies that divers would swim at a good clip to get some "lift" to stay off the bottom. If you stop you may be touching off with a fingertip.

In any case you need to weight your self for that perfect middle of the dive effect. As neoprene and depth increases this gets more complex. Finally you need to make sure you can make a safe ascent with a near empty cylinder. Sometimes an anchor line or stone enter into the equation. This is not the same diving we espouse to where you can hang in a prone position anywhere anytime but in that limited bandwidth you can come darned close..

Most steel cylinders are too negative for this to work. When I did it with an HP 80 I needed a buoyancy belt made with foam blocks in a pocketed soft weight belt. With an AL80 it's easier to just Add a few pounds to find that tipping point. The venerable LP72 is usually a very good choice.

This is not the sort of dive that will be appropriate often for most diver's needs but it is a fantastic way to experience buoyancy control in it's purest form. Keep in mind that unless you add some sort of vintage horse collar you will be without surface flotation so acess your skills and support system accordingly.

Here is an old thread where I asked the same sort of question years ago.

Pete
 
A couple of things to add to Petes post.
The type of wetsuit also makes a difference. Different materials (types/brands/varities) of wetsuit material compress differently as does old suits vs new suits. Rubatex material suits tend to have a lot less compression than many other suits and are the choice for this kind of diving but they are hard to find new. Older suits that have lost some of their loft and have hardened a little are actually better, not as warm but don't compress as much.
Wheather a particular tank will work depends on the diver and fresh vs salt water. I can't (well more correctly don't like to- I can but they overweight me) dive any steel tanks including 72s in fresh water because they overweight me. AL 80s luckily are almost perfect for me in warm fresh water with no wetsuit and no weights. In saltwater I use 4 to 5 lbs extra with AL-80s to offset the extra bouyancy. If your entry and exit points are the same, taking an extra few pounds that are easily ditchable is another old trick. Carry it with you until you get to the bottom, set it on the wreck, dive around and pick it up on the way back. You should have no problems swimming up 3 or 4 lbs, esp since your tank is lighter.

With proper equipment selection and some experience it is no where near as difficult as some will have you believe.
 
I am thinking diving in a t-shirt, no more than 20 feet.
 
I recently snagged a cheap old SCBA "backplate" (looks almost identical to a gen I Freedom plate, interestingly) to build a no-wing rig for single LP72s. I've found a lavacore top/dive shorts combo works well in warm salt water for providing some exposure protection without any detectable buoyancy swing.
 
I dive in 46 to 53 degree water all the time with no BC.
Here's how I do it.
First, I have a 7mm custom suit made out of very dense material (not Rubatex but some other stuff that's even denser) so the weight swing from suit compression is fairly minimal.
Then I weight myself really light. The tank makes no difference, it's all about the OVERALL weighting combo.
I weight myself so that I can float on the surface with a full tank. When I decend I have to do a freediving pike and kick down head first like a freediver. When I get down to about 20 feet I am about neutral.
I can remain neutral down to about 40 feet using my lungs. Going deeper I tend to hold more air in my lungs and if I go up over a rock or ridge or something I keep less air in my lungs, but I always keep the air moving.
At the end of my dive when I am close to being back to shore and I am in about 20 feet with a low tank, I will usually have a hard time trying to stay down (this is how light I weight myself) so I will look for a nice rock to pick up and carry around. I'm getting pretty good at selecting the proper size rock to stay right at 15 feet for a quick stop. The other thing I may do if there are no rocks to pick up is hold onto a kelp stalk to complete a stop (that is if I choose to do a stop).
The way I look at it, diving with no BC is a lot like freediving, the only difference is you can breathe underwater. Many or most of the diving techniques are that of freediving or skindiving as they used to call it.

I also don't go around crashing reefs. I have my weighting down and know my depth limitations well enough that uncontrolled sinking and crashing doesn't happen.
 
Last week I was down in Ft Lauderdale and wore my shorty wetsuit with my dss steel backplate and 26lb wing, no additional weight. The 8 pound backplate offset the shorty and aluminum tank exactly, and I'm pretty sure I didn't use the wing at all during the dive, except to float on the surface while waiting for the boat to pick us up. Then again, a 26lb wing is so small and unnoticeable I don't see a reason I'd ever want to dive without it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom