How to remove a stuck DIN to Yoke Adapter?

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Any suggestions of how i can remove this without damaging my regs? I dont mind damaging the adapter.
I agree with the multiple suggestions about soaking, and judicious use of heat
edward3c:
Can you not remove the DIN from the 1st stage then you only need to soak etc the two parts you want to separate.
I agree with this approach, if it is possible.

If it was my gear, I would, in order: a) put the regulator / D-T-Y adaptor unit on a yoke tank, take a set of channel lock pliers, and try to turn (loosen) the handwheel. I know, several posters have said nix the pipewrench, but this would be my first approach. I have used this technique before, several times, without damage to the plastic handwheel (other than minor, cosmetic, scratches), the D-T-Y adaptor, or the DIN bolt on the reg, etc. - obviously, use good judgement about the application of force. I have also successfully used a small pipewrench, on the handwheel, and tapped it with a rubber mallet to break the seal caused by the corrosion; then b) remove (if possible) the DIN bolt, with adaptor attached and soak it in warm solution - personally, I prefer to use the GMC cleaner - it is the best solution for cleaning I have ever used. You could also try the variously suggested solutions of vinegar, Simple Green, or even water. The key is warmth and liquid; then c) take the unit to a local shop and pay them to remove it. :)

You mention that you don't worry about damaging the adaptor. FWIW, the DIN bolt itself (on the regulator) is probably less expensive than the adaptor, and is easily replaceable.

Good luck.
 
Regarding soaking... It would actually be better to soak this in saltwater, not fresh. Chemistry 101... "like dissolves like". Soaking in saltwater, while pressurized will probably eventually eat through the existing corrosion. Fresh water is great for rinsing, but it won't do much to break down existing corrosion.

Years ago, I had a stuck viewfinder on an old camera. I eventually soaked it in my salt-water aquarium for a couple of days and it came off easily.

Failing that, a six-foot pipe wrench should do it!
 
if you can, maybe remove the yoke tank knob, and with a long shafted hex key remove the DIN assembly from the 1st stage. Now you have a piece you can soak without risking the first stage.... maybe see if someone can put it in an ultrasonic?

As to the pipe wrench idea - NO! At best, a rubber/plastic strap wrench may work without risking damage. But, only after a bunch of soaks.
 
if you can, maybe remove the yoke tank knob, and with a long shafted hex key remove the DIN assembly from the 1st stage. Now you have a piece you can soak without risking the first stage
Exactly, remove the DIN bolt from the first stage, with the D-T-Y adaptor in place, and soak it. The only problem may be how tightly the DIN bolt is seated in the first stage. A hex key can damage the DIN bolt (crack the hex opening).
maybe see if someone can put it in an ultrasonic?
Great idea. That's what I would do, with the GMC solution, if necessary
As to the pipe wrench idea - NO! At best, a rubber/plastic strap wrench may work without risking damage. But, only after a bunch of soaks.
I don't think you like this idea! :) But, opinions do vary, so:

As for the pipewrench idea, YES! It works, causes little / no damage. What are you going to damage - the handwheel? Probably not, particularly if you wrap the handwheel in a piece of cloth first, and are judicious in the use of force. You are not going to damage the first stage - it will rotate with the handwheel, while the D-T-Y adaptor is kept from rotating (after a short turn) by the tank valve. A rubber strap wrench in this case may be worth a try, but will probably do nothing - will not grip the handwheel well enough. The pipewrench / channel lock pliers approach does work, without damaging the equipment. As a quick, easy, first step, it is a logical starting point. (Frankly, it is the first thing many dive shops do, and there is no damage as a consequence). Yes, if it doesn't work, move on to more cumbersome approaches (disassembly, soaking, etc).
 
xx:
WD40 will do the trick

and then take for a full service...

between the varnish and other petro-chemicals in it, I sure as heck wouldn't allow it near my breathing equipment...
 
and then take for a full service...

between the varnish and other petro-chemicals in it, I sure as heck wouldn't allow it near my breathing equipment...

A full service needs to be done anyway. As these 2 part do not come apart you can imagine how it looks inside. With most other methods you will destroy the reg, WD40 will help and after the service it will be clean again.
 
then just take the whole thing in for service (as it sits now), and don't waste your time monkeying with it.....
 
Thanks for the advice everyone, ive tried soaking already but will give it a go but may just take it for a service and see what they can do. Will let you know how i get on!
 

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