Inon UWL - H100 or nauticam WWL - 1

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what good does a red filter do that could not be done in LR post correction with the RAW file?

I'm curious about the answer to this as well.

I have been told in the past (by people who seemed credible) that a GoPro shot with a red filter would give better results than shooting without and correcting in post. Of course, that is a bit different. But, it leaves me curious about the whole subject.

My own thought is the basic principle that seems to apply universally: It's always best to get the captured image to be the best you can in-camera, rather than relying on post-processing. Or, another way of saying the same thing, the better your initial input is, the better your final product will be.

But, maybe that does not apply to this particular question. A red filter obviously reduces the total amount of light reaching the camera sensor. Does it also reduce the sharpness of the captured image? I mean, you're putting a cheap piece of glass/plastic/gel between your subject and the sensor. You would pretty much never do that in terrestrial photography. So, maybe it is actually better to NOT use a red filter, if you're shooting in RAW?
 
I'm curious about the answer to this as well.

I have been told in the past (by people who seemed credible) that a GoPro shot with a red filter would give better results than shooting without and correcting in post. Of course, that is a bit different. But, it leaves me curious about the whole subject.

My own thought is the basic principle that seems to apply universally: It's always best to get the captured image to be the best you can in-camera, rather than relying on post-processing. Or, another way of saying the same thing, the better your initial input is, the better your final product will be.

But, maybe that does not apply to this particular question. A red filter obviously reduces the total amount of light reaching the camera sensor. Does it also reduce the sharpness of the captured image? I mean, you're putting a cheap piece of glass/plastic/gel between your subject and the sensor. You would pretty much never do that in terrestrial photography. So, maybe it is actually better to NOT use a red filter, if you're shooting in RAW?
Unless you are incredibly lucky, the red filter you use will not be exactly right for the water and depth....so you'll still probably want to do post-processing. In RAW for a still, easy, and give excellent results. For video not in RAW, not so easy, not so good. My rule of thumb is red filter -- of some color of red -- if shooting video, no filter if shooting stills and RAW. Caveat is a scene that you are lighting in the near-ground with your light, and the background is still ambient. Then nothing works....
 
I'm curious about the answer to this as well.

I have been told in the past (by people who seemed credible) that a GoPro shot with a red filter would give better results than shooting without and correcting in post. Of course, that is a bit different. But, it leaves me curious about the whole subject.

My own thought is the basic principle that seems to apply universally: It's always best to get the captured image to be the best you can in-camera, rather than relying on post-processing. Or, another way of saying the same thing, the better your initial input is, the better your final product will be.

But, maybe that does not apply to this particular question. A red filter obviously reduces the total amount of light reaching the camera sensor. Does it also reduce the sharpness of the captured image? I mean, you're putting a cheap piece of glass/plastic/gel between your subject and the sensor. You would pretty much never do that in terrestrial photography. So, maybe it is actually better to NOT use a red filter, if you're shooting in RAW?

I have a (GoPro branded) red UW color correction filter for my GoPro and yes, it does work, for shooting without video lights. There is one for green water (kind of orange) and one for blue water (kind of reddish pink). But, I was asking in regards stills, not video and shooting RAW with strobes or lighting if video. If he is doing strictly JPeg files, no RAW, then a UW color correction filter may help restore some color balance in that 20 to 40 foot depth range in clear water if using ambient light only. Otherwise, I see no point to it, especially with artificial light sources, video lights or strobes, as applicable. But I in no way claim expertise. N
 
Why I would not go with the WWL-C over the WWL-1 for an APS-C sensor camera, because it will not work with the excellent Sigma 19mm f2.8 on APS-C and it will not go forward if upgrading to the FF Sony and 28mm f.2.0. N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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