Integrated weights, hard weights on BC or weight belt?

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The same is to be said for putting a crotch strap over the belt; it can hang up on the crotch strap

I only want weight to drop if I intend for it to drop, not accidentally, and so putting it under the crotch strap helps to ensure that. It is very easy to remove the belt underwater if you practice a bit. None of these are solutions that you just attach and forget. If you want to wear ditchable weight you should practice, in the shallows, ditching it so you get the muscle memory and visualization of the procedure.

Don't worry, you're not gonna die!
 
I only want weight to drop if I intend for it to drop, not accidentally, and so putting it under the crotch strap helps to ensure that. It is very easy to remove the belt underwater if you practice a bit. None of these are solutions that you just attach and forget. If you want to wear ditchable weight you should practice, in the shallows, ditching it so you get the muscle memory and visualization of the procedure.

Don't worry, you're not gonna die!
Can you ditch it one-handed, and in one motion? That is the very old criterion. You won't believe the derision that the U.S. Naval School for Underwater Swimmers Instructors gave to "Mike Nelson," who wore his weights under his scuba harness (waist and crotch strap).

Concerning the dropping accidentally, that's where the rubber strap comes in. It will stay tight when the wet suit compresses. I have a very nice older-style latching buckle on my rubber weight belt. I have made parascuba jumps with my weight belt on the outside when I was in the USAF. The old rule is that the weight belt is the last piece of gear to put on, so it can be the first off in an emergency.

SeaRat
 
Can you ditch it one-handed, and in one motion? That is the very old criterion. You won't believe the derision that the U.S. Naval School for Underwater Swimmers Instructors gave to "Mike Nelson," who wore his weights under his scuba harness (waist and crotch strap).

Concerning the dropping accidentally, that's where the rubber strap comes in. It will stay tight when the wet suit compresses. I have a very nice older-style latching buckle on my rubber weight belt. I have made parascuba jumps with my weight belt on the outside when I was in the USAF. The old rule is that the weight belt is the last piece of gear to put on, so it can be the first off in an emergency.

SeaRat

You are correct to be concerned about the "dangerous" type of buckle as depicted in the 1957 manual. However sometime in the last 60 years or so, they figured out how to address the issue. The answer and the solution is very subtle and you can not really see it by just looking at a freedivers belt buckle.

The detail is that the pin in the buckle is "spring loaded" actually it is mounted in a position where it is under constant tension from the rubber belt. The tighter the belt is worn, the more of a spring loaded effect you get.

When the free end of the belt is pulled, the pin POPS up releasing the belt and it stays released. Freedivers would not use it if it required two hands or was not extremely reliable to ditch.

This video shows it. I had the exact same reservations when i first saw my buddies wearing these belts and immediately proclaimed them "unsafe"; until I got to use one. These belts are safer because they don't slide around, they don't have to be over tightened to compensate for suit compression and their elasticity allows them to be worn low, so your breathing is unrestricted.

[video=youtube_share;XwA8DL6-Ya0]http://youtu.be/XwA8DL6-Ya0[/video]
 
dumpsterDiver,

I went to the Mako website, and watched that video just as you were posting it. But they also had this warning:
Warning: There are some freedive weight belts on the market that DO NOT have the offset quick release feature.This means that in an emergency, when you pull (with one hand) on the hanging belt strap, the pin does not automatically release. This is very dangerous.
http://www.makospearguns.com/Freedive-Weight-Belt-p/mfdwb.htm

This to me means that this only applies to the Mako free diving weight belts. Be cautious and look out for imitations. They also are adhering to the half-century old adage that the pull be one-handed, and in a single motion. I just took a few photos of my weight belts, and when I get them loaded, I'll post them. I like mine because I don't need to "grab" anything, just flip the buckle's lever.

SeaRat
 
dumpsterDiver,

I went to the Mako website, and watched that video just as you were posting it. But they also had this warning:

This to me means that this only applies to the Mako free diving weight belts. Be cautious and look out for imitations. They also are adhering to the half-century old adage that the pull be one-handed, and in a single motion. I just took a few photos of my weight belts, and when I get them loaded, I'll post them. I like mine because I don't need to "grab" anything, just flip the buckle's lever.

SeaRat

Well.. I know that several other brands of similar belts also are made correctly.

I suppose some belts could be made so that they are not ditchable with one hand, but it would surprise me if any of the well recognized brands would have this flaw.
 
Okay dumpsterDiver, I have another question, as I have done some free diving in my time. When I was doing it, we would spearfish in fairly deep water of BC Canada or in Puget Sound. At times, when I had stayed down quite a long time, I would take my weight belt off and hold it in one hand. I did this while holding a speargun, spear and sometimes (when lucky) a fish in the other hand. I used a regular buckle at that time, and was able to release the buckle and hold the belt with one hand. The theory was that if SWB occurred, I would automatically drop the weight belt, and proceed to the surface. Can this be done with the Mako buckle?

SeaRat
 
Okay dumpsterDiver, I have another question, as I have done some free diving in my time. When I was doing it, we would spearfish in fairly deep water of BC Canada or in Puget Sound. At times, when I had stayed down quite a long time, I would take my weight belt off and hold it in one hand. I did this while holding a speargun, spear and sometimes (when lucky) a fish in the other hand. I used a regular buckle at that time, and was able to release the buckle and hold the belt with one hand. The theory was that if SWB occurred, I would automatically drop the weight belt, and proceed to the surface. Can this be done with the Mako buckle?

SeaRat

Some people recommend that if a freediver suspects that he may have pushed things too close, it is wise to unfasten the belt. The theory is that if they should black out on ascent, the belt will be "automatically" released as they lose consciousness - and then they should float to the surface (if they were close enough) and then have a better chance for survival.

Other people (probably the mainstream) recommend that if you think you MAY have pushed things too far, just ditch the belt and don't worry about it. I have heard some anecdotal evidence that people have blacked out, or at least had a loss of motor control, but for some reason their hand stayed closed and the belt was not immediately released.

If a freediver wants to play the game of preparing to release the belt, you can do it with these belts. You just pull on the end, releasing the pin, but just keep the loose end in your hand. If you black out, your hand MAY release the grip on the belt and then it will slide through and release.
 
Well in a pool at 10 feet it took me 21lbs weight and 5.5 lbs on my DR BC plate to be slightly negative. I will have to jump in the pool with a nearly empty and figure in how much more I will need. This is an insane amount if weight for me when with my 3mm farmer john and 5/3mm hood all I needed was my plate and 4 lbs. At this point I might even consider a steel instead of an AL but then I don't want to become a turtle on my back either. Also my feet are light any hints not really one to add weights around my ankle.
 
I will have to jump in the pool with a nearly empty and figure in how much more I will need.
Are you thinking of the buoyancy swing from full to empty tank? For an Al80, that'd be about 2.5-3kg (5.5-6.5#)

At this point I might even consider a steel instead of an AL but then I don't want to become a turtle on my back either.
I wouldn't worry too much. On my last dive, my rig was some 11kg/24lb negative, which is standard when I'm dressed for cold water. I had absolutely no problems or tendencies to turn turtle. Admittedly, about half of that weight was in weight pockets on my sides, though, and I carried about as much again (5.5kg/12lb) on a belt, with the weights located just above my hip bones.

Also my feet are light any hints not really one to add weights around my ankle.
Heavier fins, like Jets.
Steel tank mounted lower on the BP
Add trim weights or move some of your non-ditchable weight to the bottom of your BP.
Dive dry and adjust trim to move some of the suit air North.
 
If you extend at the knees, sticking your legs out further, this might also help. It's akin to putting your arms out further in front of you if you're leg heavy.
 

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