Koh Lipe review

[h90]

First of all: that are my personal experiences, the next one can have total different ones.

I was there from 3.1.2007-17.1.2007
There are 5 dive centers
(Starfish)
Lotus Dive
Forra Dive
Sabye Dive
Dive Inn (former ChaoLee Dive)
Ocean Dive (or simillar)

The Dive Centers:

(Starfish): Wrote them an email and got answer, that they are close this year as they are busy somewhere else.

At Lotus: I came and they told me the Instructor is busy with a student, I told them no problem I have time, I take a beer and wait.
He just theached OW. I saw he told his student (a girl) that he need to speak with a new customer for a moment (me). He came and explained that they are the best, they have the biggest tanks (thats true), the best boat, the best dive sites best best everything best. After he saw that I am really a possible customer he told his student that theaching is finish. The girl asked that he wanted to explain the dive tables. He made a pretty arrogant face and told, that is so easy that everyone can understand it, she shall take the tables from the office and the small book and read it, than she does not need explanations because sooooo easy.
No question I didn't dive with them after I heared that. But I met another diver who was very happy with them.

The Ocean??? Center: Had just a thai girl in the office who did not know anything. I asked her if they also give tanks for rent and she replied: no safety first.
No dive with them

Forra: French owner Nice talk with them (beside the owner), they have a nice boat. Good dive.
Minus: the Owner complains all the time that he works so hard and he is only doing that for the money. Actually I didn't see him doing much. I wrote them an email and never got an answer. I asked him if he got my email and he told: he don't answer emails at all, no time for such crap. His Instructor must thouch everything he can find (lionfish, stonefish, seahorse). Not very good but he didn't harm any.

Sabye: Canadian owner, seems to be nice. Oldest center there, he knows a lot. One of us had a broken hose to the octopus so maybe not only he is the oldest dc maybe also the oldest hoses.
Absolut outstanding good food between the two dives. One of the best Thai food I ever got in Thailand+ cake and after the dive cake again.
Someone told me he is an absolut mad guy, but I only saw something nice. But there every dive center is bashing the other dive centers.
Small Minus: he told all the time how useless and bad thai people are. What is he doing in thailand when he hates thais.

Dive Inn: Very nice people. I had the luck that I was the only one who booked so they told me to dive where I want. So it was the wrack and it was wounderfull nice.
I liked that center most.

In generell the shops want to go every second day to the same places, which are close and for every diver suitable.

The dives itself were outstanding. I guess there every beach is a perfect dive site. Sometimes vis is not good due to plankton and I wouldn't recommend a shorty as the plankton can nettle (like jellyfish). I don't have much to compare but it should be somewhere under the world best places.

 

[Bowmouth]

Could you write a little bit more about the dive sites (names, depths, marinelife etc) and the environmental conditions?
Thanks.

 

[h90]

OK, I take my logbook, now.....
Ahead sorry if that posting sounds a bit silly, but I am not good at marinelife, and what I know I can't translate to english.....

I dive:
(Koh??)Lancha
Koh Bizi
Chabang
Koh Yang
Wrack Yong Hua
Hin Kauw

According to many divers I met there and my own opinion (which does not count very much as I haven't been to the most famouse places yet) it should be one of the most beautifull dive places in Thailand.

When I was there Jan 4-17 the sea was in a beautifull green look, but that caused poor visibility of 5-10 meter. One dive shop told me that it is usually much better but it is a good sign, as when the plankton comes the Walshark/Mantas follow soon.
They should be at 8 miles rock, which I did not dove.
I got also told that sometimes there are real whales, even the very big species which I always thought that they are only in very cold areas. I still have some doubts but the whales (incl Potwhale are on a poster of thailands protected animals). And they found a dead whale somewhere (which they put under wather to feed fishes and than take the skeleton to the mountain to do something religious with it. Couldn't figure out if that is a buddhist thing or not).
On the way to the first two dive sites I could see big fishes jumping (1-1.5 (real size, normaly they grow everytime someone is telling about them) which were identified as macrele and tuna. tuna and baracuda I saw also under water but much smaller. There should be also a fish looking simillar, but with a very long fin on its back (I only ate a local catched one). I also saw a turtle but it was catched by a local. He told he let it stay at home (which either means stay at home somewhere in BKK after he sell it or it stay at home in his stomach)
On the first 4 sites there were a hugh amount of soft and hard corals including every fish I know. Enviroment looked total unthouched. Just on forra dive the divemaster had to thouch everything what disappointed me a bit.
The second dive had a cold stream with 25 degree (measured on the DM computer)

Everyone told me the Wrack is not diveable. But at Dive Inn they didn't had any customer that day, so I told them if the dive the wrack they have at last me.
I guess most don't want to dive it because it is deep (I had on the computer 32 meter, a swedish a few days later had 37.5 meter).

That was the best dive: from top you could only see black water, when we went down we had bad vis. But down on the wrack it was maybe 8 meter. So you go down without seeing anything and than the beauty is here.....
Hugh lion fishes (double size than normal), passing other big fishes. The boat is on its side, the former upper side is full of cables, so diving there at the cables is extrem dangerous. Penetration is not possible (or at least I got told so).
One amazing story was: when the swede dove it, the water was higher and the marker on the surface was under water and not visible. The local boatmen (chao lee) just put his anchor in the middle of the boat on the side without cables (so he can get it back in later). Without seeing anything, without GPS or Sonar. He just looked the islands and told it must be here.

Hin Kauw: that was just an idea of the DM, noone is diving there and we just had a look how it looks there. A lot plankton which can make skin problems (like jellyfish) so I was full of red spots after it. Dive site was not that great, some currency.

Over all absolut great, but most DC only go always to the same places (which are the same as the other DC do). Most don't like the 8 miles rock because far away (I guess 8 miles) and the wrack as they can't take OW beginners to it). The local Chao Lee know all the places and like freediving themself or some do diving with compressor on the boat (for catching reef fish in traps, which they got recommended as more enviroment friendly than with net)

Could you write a little bit more about the dive sites (names, depths, marinelife etc) and the environmental conditions?
Thanks.

 

[Bowmouth]

Thanks for your update. I'm glad you enjoyed your trip and it sounds like there's some interesting diving to be done at Koh Lipe. Sad to hear some of the local operators are not all that safety and environmentally concious.
The locals finding the wreck without a visible marker on the surface are traditional fishermen that use (far away) landmarks as their bearing for finding submerged rocks and wrecks. It's a technique that's unfortunately slowly disappearing from the villages because of introduction of cheap and easy GPS and depth/fish finder equipment.
I used to work for years with a few old Thais who never used any equipment but their eyes to find reefs, pinnacles and wrecks. Truly amazing and a time I'll never forget.

 

[h90]

Bowmouth: also not safe for the divers:
One diver was out of air at 19 meter, so he continued the dive (not ascent) on the octopus of the DM. Of course a beginner, else he wouldn't be the first without air. If there is any small problem (example jellyfish), he get sepperate from the Octopus and panick he may surface as quick as possible and you have a real problem. Continue without air on 19 meter is not a good idea.

On another dive I was longer than the others under water because another divers hose ot the octopus broke (thats also a topic why a hose just breaks, also there was rust inside (where comes rust from????)). So I was the first out of air and at 16 bar the Instructor still didn't want to surface (also 19 meter deep). As I had no feeling for a out of air experience I signaled no air and went up with him on the octopus.
thats in my opinion an unnecessary risk.

 

[Bowmouth]

Brrrr, it all sounds pretty scary to me. Rust in hoses may come from either poorly maintained compressors or a steel tank with water inside. Not good at all! Also having a DM who lets his divers run out of air isn't all that assuring for beginners who put blind faith in their "guide". Make sure you NEVER listen to a DM/Instructor who does risky things under water. You must be brave enough to stand up to unprofessional and outright stupid DM's and make sure YOU come up in one piece after your dive.

I'm leaving now for a 6 week trip so will not be able to respond for a while. I'm going to the land of the swimming elephants; the Andaman Islands. Lucky me!

Thanks for your input on Lipe and dive safely!

 

[h90]

wish you much fun the next weeks.
As he has aluminium cylinder I guess it comes from the compressor, I also had on one dive some oil in the air, but not much. Couldn't feel it on the beginning, but taste built up. I always had a cloudy mask and washed it with water and could smell the oil when I breath the air out thru the nose. But must be a very very small concentration. Maybe he had a previous problem and that remaind in the tank after cleaning.

I did extrem sport before and I definitly does not let someone risk my life. If a DM is crazy I signal out of air before I am out of air.

Give you another story from Lipe:
Came back from diving, that DC has a Chao Lee staff, who actually speaks good english and knows about diving.
Another DC trained a DM. One part of the training seems to be handling of an accident. So she (American) went to that DC and told something about bends. But didn't mention that it was only training (or at least write that on a piece of paper in Thai language). So he quickly bought a 200 baht refill for his private mobile phone and called arround everywhere to find the fastest way to the deco chamber.
He wasn't really happy when he heared that he spent money for just nothing or the training of another dive shops customer.
A few days ago the navy brought a doctor because someone was sick. Would like to know what would have happen if the Navy comes with a big boat to help and there is no accident?

 

[Blox]

Thanks for the review, but I wish you had clarified somewhat more, which of the "stories" happened with which of the dive centers. The way it is done, it's a bit blurry and does not help a lot to keep away from "the bad ones", because it's quite impossible to identify which DC each of the stories has happened with.

I dove around Koh Lipe for 2 days (6 dives) in early December 2006 and am definitely planning to go back. The entire Marine National park is really beautiful (think: Postcard from beach paradise) and the diving is very good (and I am saying that although I did not exactly pick the best time to go there, with viz being, from what I've heard, a bit below par for the area). From what I can recall, I've only been to one of the same dive sites that you've been to (the Yong Hua Wreck - never seen as many lion fish in one place as on that wreck).

I did my diving with Sabye Divers (I can't comment on the quality of the other LDS) and have been very happy with the choice. The shop and the activities were well organized, the boat was good (a large longtail boat crewed with Chao Lay who, as was to be expected from those "Sea Gypsies", knew their stuff), and so was the food, consumed on different beautiful beaches/islands that was picked at random for a lunch stop. I found Barry, the Canadian owner, a very skilled diver, who was very helpful (among others in getting me hooked up with accommodation beforehand, answering questions I had by email, and fixing a small air leak on my inflator hose), and full of interesting and detailed knowledge of the local marine life and eco system. The rental gear (which I have not used, because I have a full set of equipment), did not look exactly new, but I have seen for myself, that it's taken good care of, it's very well cleaned after the end of every dive day, and I wouldn't hesitate to dive it (regardless of maintenance, stuff does break every now and then). I'll definitely be happy to dive with Sabye again, when (not if) I return.

 

[h90]

Thanks for the review, but I wish you had clarified somewhat more, which of the "stories" happened with which of the dive centers. The way it is done, it's a bit blurry and does not help a lot to keep away from "the bad ones", because it's quite impossible to identify which DC each of the stories has happened with.

I dove around Koh Lipe for 2 days (6 dives) in early December 2006 and am definitely planning to go back. The entire Marine National park is really beautiful (think: Postcard from beach paradise) and the diving is very good (and I am saying that although I did not exactly pick the best time to go there, with viz being, from what I've heard, a bit below par for the area). From what I can recall, I've only been to one of the same dive sites that you've been to (the Yong Hua Wreck - never seen as many lion fish in one place as on that wreck).

I did my diving with Sabye Divers (I can't comment on the quality of the other LDS) and have been very happy with the choice. The shop and the activities were well organized, the boat was good (a large longtail boat crewed with Chao Lay who, as was to be expected from those "Sea Gypsies", knew their stuff), and so was the food, consumed on different beautiful beaches/islands that was picked at random for a lunch stop. I found Barry, the Canadian owner, a very skilled diver, who was very helpful (among others in getting me hooked up with accommodation beforehand, answering questions I had by email, and fixing a small air leak on my inflator hose), and full of interesting and detailed knowledge of the local marine life and eco system. The rental gear (which I have not used, because I have a full set of equipment), did not look exactly new, but I have seen for myself, that it's taken good care of, it's very well cleaned after the end of every dive day, and I wouldn't hesitate to dive it (regardless of maintenance, stuff does break every now and then). I'll definitely be happy to dive with Sabye again, when (not if) I return.

I don't want to start a dive center bashing. Somehow unfair if the hose brakes, just because unlucky and I start a bashing which lets everyone belive that the equipment is crap, even it might be not true.

But will write about thouching everything (thats not about bad luck, and that bad emergency training, that was both Forra dive).
Even I did not see any harm to the animals, it is a bit crazy to tease stonefish (didn't see it well but I think it was a stonefish), lionfishes (several times and I am sure about them) without gloves. teasing with the knife (but no harm done) these flat fishes with one eye on each side (don't know the name) and holding himself on a coral (nothing broke).

Barry has for sure outstanding good food. In my case it was definitly better than almost all restaurants I ever ate in thailand, specialy with the cake. Maybe thats a bit biased and I was just outstanding hungry hahahahaha.....

Dive Inn were very very enviromentfriendly, actually that couple spoke many times about enviroment and how to protect it and about bad things they saw somewhere else. But of course also after 2 dives I can't tell something 100 % sure.

I had own equipment so I didn't pay much attention to their rental gears. Lotus makes a lot promotion that they have 15 liter steel tanks, but it doesn't bring much advantage for me, as with the normal 12 Liter Alu (they are 12 or??) I can stay at shallow arround 60-70 min and than I am already tired or at the deep dive (wrack) I have my limit on the computer far before the tank gets empty.

One Chao Lee (must be head of village or something like that) told me that the Dive Inn has a Chao Lee owner. So of course I would like to support that if there is no other difference, because I like to see local people also get their benefit. On the other hand the two DM (a couple Dutch+British) there told me that the owner is NOT Chao Lee but a Thai who is living in Bangkok. So a pretty different story.

 

[mslise]

We were there over Christmas this year and dives with ocean pro divers (at Varin beach resort) and found them fine. Za, our DM was great and a very professional & safety conscious diver. They have a nice, large boat and serve a nice lunch- unfortunately on one of our days (christmas day of all days) it broke down.

We did have a bit of a battle getting them to just hire us tanks so we could dive the house reef (when their boat broke down) but they agreed in the end. The house reef was a nice, easy dive.

They don't have a large amount of hire gear, however they are very obliging and friendly people and always managed to find the bits we needed- cost wise they were comparable to the other places on the island.

They had a young girl doing her open water at the time and watching the attention and help she got (1 on 1 instruction) was really sweet.