Mounting UK Light Cannon to Housing??

[Taxgeek]

Hi, MikeT. Can I assume the silicone rubber doesn't materially reduce the flexibility of the loc-line in the water? (I was sort of assuming that outside the water the loc-line arms would just be crossed over the camera and the whole rig lifted by the base, so the loc-line wouldn't really need to lift the light cannons.) But is there an issue of the loc-line popping out of the fixed ends?

Thanks,
Taxgeek

 

[miket]

The silicone does limit flexability a little, but not much. Mostly just makes it stiffer. UK light cannons are heavy when filled with 8 C-cells. I would think that without the extra stiffness from the silicone it would be very easy for your lights to get bumped out of alignment underwater.

Even with the silicone you can still pull the lock lines apart, but it it really hard to do. I don't see it happening by accident.

- MikeT

 

[Taxgeek]

The silicone does limit flexability a little, but not much. Mostly just makes it stiffer. UK light cannons are heavy when filled with 8 C-cells. I would think that without the extra stiffness from the silicone it would be very easy for your lights to get bumped out of alignment underwater.

Even with the silicone you can still pull the lock lines apart, but it it really hard to do. I don't see it happening by accident.

- MikeT

Thanks for the info!
Taxgeek

 

[paulpost]

Im planning on somehow making something to mount two UK Light Cannons to my Light & Motion Top Dawg Mini Housing. Has anyone bought or made a rig to attach the lights to the housing???

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

This is not related to your question, I'd like to know how can one get the count down meter that you've posted, what is funny is that your meter maches my date of arrival in COZ also.
Paul

 

[diversteve]

This is not related to your question, I'd like to know how can one get the count down meter that you've posted, what is funny is that your meter maches my date of arrival in COZ also.
Paul

Click on User CP in the blue bar near the top of this screen. The last item on the menu down the left side is your personal countdown timer setup.

 

[Taxgeek]

Hi Mike.
Question: did you buy the ULCS connector dodads for the light cannons? With the plate that slides into the handle connector point and secures with compression screw? Or did you go with some other method?

Putting all the pieces together this weekend, and my Dad wants to machine dovetail pieces to slide in the handle slot on the LCs . . . there has to be an easier way! ;-)

Thanks!
Taxgeek

 

[miket]

Hi Mike.
Question: did you buy the ULCS connector dodads for the light cannons? With the plate that slides into the handle connector point and secures with compression screw? Or did you go with some other method?

Putting all the pieces together this weekend, and my Dad wants to machine dovetail pieces to slide in the handle slot on the LCs . . . there has to be an easier way! ;-)

Thanks!
Taxgeek

Yes, I used the UltraLight parts.

I already owned one ULCS UK-LC100 adaptor that I took the ball end off of of the dovetail part. I then bought a second dovetail at a store where they actually sold me the dovetail only (according to ULCS you cannot get just the dovetail).

These dovetails have 2 x 1/4" threaded holes. I bought a 1 ince x 1/4" allen bolt (no head) and drove it thru the dovetail into a loc-line end cap. The other hole I used a 1/4" wing bolt that secures the light to the dovetail.

Machining the dovetails yourself sounds like alot of work. But the ULCS UK-LC100 adaptors are $37 each here at my local store. That would be $74 for just two small metal dovetails.

It also seems a waste not to use the ball adaptors that come with them. I lucked out with the second dovetail as they sold it to me for $15 out of a parts box.

- MikeT

 

[Taxgeek]

Great info Mike, Thanks.

Edit: Oh, thought up another question. Are you planning to do anything to increase the buoyancy of the light cannons? I suspect they're going to throw off the rig's trip in the water.

I was thinking of using foam tape around them, but the foam bicycle handle tape doesn't look like it would be very secure in water - the adhesive is minimal. Other ideas included modifying "coozies" (those foam beer can holders), or making custom jackets out of neoprene, ensolite, or other closed cell foam.

We were making jokes about mini BCs for the lights

What are people doing about this? As it is, my camera's positively buoyant (which I can correct with lead shot in the handles of the rig itself), but those light cannons will easily drag the whole thing down to the bottom of the abyss if given half a chance!

Thanks,
Taxgeek

 

[miket]

Great info Mike, Thanks.

Edit: Oh, thought up another question. Are you planning to do anything to increase the buoyancy of the light cannons? I suspect they're going to throw off the rig's trip in the water.

I was thinking of using foam tape around them, but the foam bicycle handle tape doesn't look like it would be very secure in water - the adhesive is minimal. Other ideas included modifying "coozies" (those foam beer can holders), or making custom jackets out of neoprene, ensolite, or other closed cell foam.

We were making jokes about mini BCs for the lights

What are people doing about this? As it is, my camera's positively buoyant (which I can correct with lead shot in the handles of the rig itself), but those light cannons will easily drag the whole thing down to the bottom of the abyss if given half a chance!

Thanks,
Taxgeek

Don't use foam tape. There is foam tubes from the bike shop that can be pulled over the loc-lines, it makes them even more stiff and would add bouyancy too.

Haven't even tried it yet underwater. My housing is very buoyant and has a lead weight to almost nutralize it (just barely positive). The lead weight gets removed when you attach the light arms (making the lights the weight). I need to try it out in a pool or really calm seas to see how it works out. I am thinking of attaching some foam or neoprene around the arms or lights. Or some lead shot if it happens to float too much.

I mentioned earlier that they don't break apart easily. I was wrong they do, I picked up the housing with the UK attached and it swung down fast on the loc-lines and broke off where it was attached to the housing and hit the floor. This is unlikely to happen underwater, but since light cannons sink something like this happening as the camera is handed down to you from a boat could result in a loss of the light.

I am thinking of removing the silicone and threading a stainless steel cable thru the loc-line tubing, then adding more silicone. Then adding some foam bike-grips over the whole thing. This should keep it from breaking, and if it does it will be saved by the steel cable.

- Mike
http://www.socaldivevideos.com

 

[Taxgeek]

"Haven't even tried it yet underwater. My housing is very buoyant and has a lead weight to almost nutralize it (just barely positive). The lead weight gets removed when you attach the light arms (making the lights the weight). I need to try it out in a pool or really calm seas to see how it works out. I am thinking of attaching some foam or neoprene around the arms or lights. Or some lead shot if it happens to float too much."

Seems like it would be a good idea to have the rig neutrally buoyant (or as close as you like it) both with and without the lights, so you don't have to fiddle as much between dives. I guess this would equate to lead on the main rig somewhere and buoyancy added to the arms/lights. I have some of that handlebar foam, probably a good idea. Thanks.

My loc-line is extremely tight on those attachment cups - I was trying to pull it apart with my dad, in a vise, and couldn't! It probably loosens with time though, so that's a very interesting idea about the cable. A steel cable would work, a brass welding rod, a coupla tie wraps (zip ties), I agree, anything to give the loc-line links a little assist if they end up in tension. Apparently they weren't designed for tension.

My dad and I are working on it this week - let me see what ideas he has.

Taxgeek