MV’s 5060z / Housing Question Thread

[MVillanueva]

My new gadgets arrived; naturally I have questions (even after reading and searching many posts for many hours). I am starting this thread to get answers to questions that I could not find answers.

Here is my first set of questions relating to the case.

1. PT-20 / Case.
The manual states not to fly with the case closed and latched as air pressure will prevent opening the case later.
a. Is this warning really true?
b. Do you leave it closed but unlatched?

2. PT-20 / Case / Silica gel.
Manual talks about using the gel, and then not to use it if it is “damp” or “moist.”
a. Is there an alternative source for this stuff (which I have only encountered in microscope cases and telescope boxes). To order from Oly would take quite a while.
b. How can one tell if the stuff is damp? That stuff always seems crispy to me.

3. PT-20 / Case / Weight
The weight attaches to the bottom via a large knurled stainless steel screw. I assume the washer and attached red thread strap is to loop around the screw so that the washer is always available to remove the weight.
a. Is it really necessary to keep the washer attached attached to the bottom of the weight? It looks goofy to me, and I cannot imagine why I would need to remove the weight once installed. Still... better to ask than make assumptions.

4. 5060/ PT-20. Unit.
Seems it is best to find a case that can house both the camera and the housing together. However, as much as I have used Pelican cases for off road travel and for field work, they are heavy and bulky and a pain in the ass. However, a Pelican-type case may be the best tried and true solution.
a. Do you traveling photographers use a hard case such as Pelican for both your housing and your camera?
b. If not, what type of traveling case do you use to transport UW cameras and housing?

Thanks

michael

 

[ReyeR]

1. PT-20 / Case

This depends on the difference between the ambient pressure that you shut the housing in and the aircraft cabin pressure. There's been pages of technical arguments written about this. Some member have travelled with the housing closed with o-rings installed and have had no problems. My argument is simple: Do you really want to take the chance and spend hundreds of dollars and fly hundreds of miles on a diving holiday and get there and find you can't open the housing door? Or would you rather employ an easy solution and take the o-rings out, put them in a ziploc bag, put the ziploc bag in the housing, latch the door and fly with it?

2. PT-20 / Case / Silica gel

I use the self-indicating ones from here: http://www.preservesmart.com/products.htm#SilicaGelDesiccants. Not only do they tell you when it's saturated (and not effective anymore) but you can also pop them into an oven at about 80°C (no more or the packets will melt) and re-juvenate them again.

3. PT-20 / Case / Weight

I think the thread is just there so you don't lose the washer. You don't need to hang it off the housing. Just store it with your other housing preparation stuff (grease, o-ring pick, foam applicators etc).

4. 5060/ PT-20. Unit

I always carry my camera, housing and strobes in carry-on luggage ( check for allowable items with the airline ). For that I use a soft back-pack like the Lowepro ones ( http://www.lowepro.com/pages/series/trekking/naturtr.htm ).

 

[Dee]

In addition to everything ReyeR said.....I also use a backpack as carry on.

 

[MVillanueva]

Thanks for the solid working answers. That Lowepro one sweet case! What a beauty! I never would have thought of simply taking out the O rings for transport -- what an elegant solution.

I am very grateful for the resources on this board!

ok.... now it is onto actually learning how the camera works underwater!

 

[Wildcard]

Same set up I got. Loving it so far! I ordered a pelican for JUST the camera and am using an igloo lunch cooler for the camera with the case. Didn't want to fork over the bucks for a second Pelican then have to go bigger to fit the strobe. Also looking for desicant source. You can dry them in the oven on a very low setting. Thats how the big ones work anyway.

 

[orangeBloke]

I've accidentally packed the casing closed for flying. Normally I take it as carry on but this time I screwed up my packing and it ended up in the hold. I was able to open it afterward but it took some effort to do it. Since then, as ReyeR advised, I always take the o-rings out and take it into the cabin with me.

Also as regards the weight, the only time you might want to take it off is to attach a base plate for a strobe. Ive also had to strip my stuff out the bag before because the weight showed up in the airport scanner as a dark object and they wanted to know what it was. So if you're bringing it with you, pack it somewhere where it's easy to remove just in case

 

[AndyT]

Hi Michael

Welcome to the 5060 family !!!

Here is an important thread to have a look at , if you haven't seen it already :

http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=7388

Safe Diving

Andrew

 

[MAGELLAN]

I just got the 5060 yesterday and I'm waiting on my housing. Don't feel bad about asking questions, you couldn't possibly be more ignorant than me. I've only had a few minutes with the camera, but I still can't take a clear picture, yet.

 

[MVillanueva]

5. PT-20 / Case / Pressure Testing
Manual talks about an “Advance Test” to intended depth., that is, to submerge the case sans camera to the intended depth first. Manual then goes on to describe a “Final Test” procedure done just before diving that takes about 5 minutes.

a. Is it really necessary to take the case to 30, 40, 50, or 60+ feet before use? Could not an initial pool tryout work as well?
b. Do you PT users adhere to the stated pre-dive 5minute dunk test each time you use your camera underwater?
c. Is it not hard to "see" moisture inside the case?
d. What are your personal pre-dive camera routines?

I am asking these questions so to learn which habits to instill early on – cause whatever I tend to do now, will be what I tend to do later.

Thanks

Michael

 

[Dee]

a. Is it really necessary to take the case to 30, 40, 50, or 60+ feet before use? Could not an initial pool tryout work as well?

I think you need to get it below 20-30 ft for a true pressure test. At least I feel more comfortable knowing mine passed the test at that depth.

b. Do you PT users adhere to the stated pre-dive 5minute dunk test each time you use your camera underwater?

If a camera rinse tank is available, I sit the rig in it and watch it closely, making sure the bubbles I see are normal and no water is trickling in. If not tank is available, I watch my housing as I slowly descend. if there's a problem i can get it to the surface in a hurry. There's always a few bubble as water fills the spaces around the hinges and such.

c. Is it not hard to "see" moisture inside the case?

Not if you have a clear housing.

d. What are your personal pre-dive camera routines?

I prepare my housing the night before when I am not rushed. Other than that, check for leaks as described above. I never put my camera in the camera tank after that initial test, that's where alot of damage can occur as your rig rubs and vibrates against any other rig in there. I prefer to keep my rig submerged in water in a soft-sided drink cooler or wrapped in a wet towel to keep it cool and safe.