New diver & yet another tank question!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

jrgoffin

Registered
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
# of dives
25 - 49
Hi all,

I'm a relatively new diver, just banged out the OW, AOW, and got the Nitrox card in a relatively short period. Having a blast, wish I hadn't waited so long before I started and looking forward to many more dives over the years.

I own all my gear including an Aluminum 80 tank. I really haven't liked the tank - not enough air, too much buoyancy, etc.. Seems there are lots of threads with opinions on tanks, so sorry to start another thread...!

Anyway, I am going to trade up for a steel tank, but not sure if I should go 100 or 120ish? I've heard that doubles are also the way to go for NJ dives, but I'm using a ScubaPro Glide Plus BC, so I think I'll be sticking with a single tank for ahwile. Also heard that HP is going to be more useful than LP, but any opinions would be great. Lots of good stuff up here that I have enjoyed browsing!

Cheers,

Joe
 
HP is a beautifully efficient package in terms of weight and buoyancy but is a little more difficult to get spot-on perfect fills so I'd be had pressed to call them especially useful.

For single tank diving why do you feel the need for greater than ~80 cubic feet of air? Odds are your consumption rate is ripe for improvement. a HP100 is a very significant supply and size wise is on par with your AL80.

If overall heft is not a concern and you are not a stout person then LP will provide easy fills, nice buoyancy properties and leave change in your pocket.

Pete
 
Hopefully getting HP fills at Dutch or my dive shop shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Haven't liked the relatively short dive times with the AL-80, have only been able to get about 30 minutes in the water on several of the 80' dives and my buddy with the HP100 has to cut short due to this, kind of a bummer. Since I'm coming up with <1000 psi, the excess buoyancy has been a real pain too. If I'm spending the money, I'd rather ger more volume and better weight control (I hope).
 
I can't add much to the above. For dives to eighty fsw the HP 100 is a nice little package. It is very light in weight and has about neutral buoyancy. I like them best for tropical dives. Diving with a wet suit, I use an old fashioned PST tank rated 3000 + and 94.6 cf. It is the same size as a steel 72 but about six pounds heavier, and six pounds negative buoyancy. As far as buying solid fills for the HP tanks, I can't speak to that. I own a compressor, also old, and fill to about 3500 which cools down to 3300. Sometimes, I top off, then again, maybe not. Either way, those things hold so much more air than a comparable LP tank or aluminum tank, who would care? If you filled your own tanks it would be possible to overfill an LP to 3000 or thereabouts which would change the equation. Aluminum tanks are bulky and heavy. A friend of mine has an aluminum 100 and it is a bear to lift. It is 8 inches dia and slippery which makes it hard to get a grip. That is important if the tank is slung on, Mike Nelson style. However, the flat bottom of the aluminum might make it more convenient for donning while seated. My buddy places the tank on the engine cover and sits down in front of the tank. From there, he wiggles, twists and weaves the harness and instrument tangles into position.
 
One solution would be to dive a steel 120. Next time you're a DS, stop by the Lehigh Valley Dive shop and rent one. The bouyancy difference lets you drop least 8 lbs from your belt, while the tank weighs about 6 lbs more. It's a few pounds less going down the hill, but a few more carrying it to the car.

That said, If you're consistently feeling too floaty near the end of the dives, add some more lead. Remember, If you check your weighting with a full tank, you need to add lead to account for the air you will use (5lbs or so for an 80, 8 for a 120).

Also keep in mind that a steel 120 costs at least twice what an Al 80 does. As far as filling goes, Both DS and LVDS can give you HP fills, as can most shops, but few boats. At DS, expect to get an underfill, HP or LP.

I recently got a 120, and prefer it to an 80, but for a slightly different reason. When I'm teaching, I can get all the dives done on one tank (with reserve in case a student wanders off on dive 4). With an 80, I need to refill at least once.
 
I love my HP120 and am looking for another one.
 
Finally pulled the trigger and went with a Faber Steel HP120. Should work out just fine (except if I ever go to doubles - unless I use it as a fill tank!).
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom