New Sony Cybershot RX100

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

This is very Interesting news so you can shoot proper movies with this camera then
I will try and get to a shop to test it
Can you set a manual shutter speed?

Yep - you have all of M,A,S and P modes available. slowest shutter speed when set to S or M for movies is 1/4 sec.

Cheers,
Huw
 
Just read a long review
Why the hell Sony omitted a 1080p30 or 1080p24 mode on this camera?
This is really making no sense at all
Shooting at 60p just to have to drop frames later

UW use aside, 60P is smoother for panning and when slowed down for slo-mo its great. If you use the 1080 50i setting, that is like 30p anyway when u edit or play in some player.
.

---------- Post Merged at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 11:51 AM ----------

I guess someone is not a fan of Ikelite...

I have owned 3 with a total dive count of just over 2000 spread across the three, and (I'm touching wood right now) not had any problems - so I am perfectly happy with Ikelite.

The machined Al housings are ergonomically better, but over the years I've seen many housings have problems (Ike included) and the problems are not restricted to plastic housings only. In most cases it's probably fair to say the user plays the biggest part in the problem.

If you have the money to buy a top range DSLR with quality lenses for diving, I suspect the extra money for whatever housing you want is not too much of a problem.

All the pictures in the thread link below were taken with a Sony in Ikelite, and the port did not fall off even once.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/sony-snappers/424971-slt-a65-bigger-than-nex.html


It is not about being a fan of Ike or not. I decide on housings based on its mechanical quality. I also do not pamper my housings. I will jump into the water with my housings and have dropped my Nauticam D800 housings onto a boat floor when boat rocked and I placed on a seat 1.5 feet high and has its 105mm Port no 87 on it, backdoor was removed and camera was not inside. The only time I go for plastic housing is when the foot print is small, example my GoPro-s.

Two of my friends have lost 5D Mk1 and 5D Mk2, port came off their Ike. Some have used Ike for more than 10 years and no issue. However, since I understand mechanical things well and a rough SOB when it comes to handling UW gear, even photography ones, I do not like Ike way of securing a port. When I don't like something about it, I won't buy it or even use it.

If you like Ike go for it. I rather spend more money on something better & tougher and if my DLSR camera body cost US$3000 or more, the more I will stay away from a plastic housing. The fact is simple, plastic is not something you want to keep screwing a stainless steel bolt over and over again. Try doing port change for a 1000 times and see how it holds up.:D

There are so many things in an Ike which I do not like mechanically. Well this is a personal taste and no one has to agree.

I don't even like Sea & Sea D7000 alu housing because changing a port , one needs a screwdriver to unlock that lock tab. Camera must come out of housing too. I also do not like any housing which to cut cost, where many buttons on housing is a direct placement to the camera's buttons. I want ergonomics and I will pay for it. I want buttons to be relocated to the camera sides where it will be easier to use. I want a housing which its focus gear can retract when one slide in a camera into the housing. I want where a button on a camera can be made on the housing as trigger lever as much as possible because buttons are not as great to use as trigger lever. I do not even like the "toolbox kind of housing locks" found on Ike, Aquatica and Sea & Sea and the older Nauticams. To me that kind of lock is a lazy engineering, aside from cutting cost that is. There are so many small "finer attention to details kind of things" I want in a housing.

Aside from how good our photo is from an X housing, to me what also matters is I can pay for mechanical innovations and great control accuracy. Its the user experience being an important factor for me. I don't take much UW photos ( me total UW photo dummy for now ), but I love great engineering. After all , these are just hobbies and in that sense, $$ does not need to be regulated as much as if we make a living out of it.

If only Aquapazza sells magnetic focus & zoom port for other housings as options, I will willingly buy that port. All these small details meant a lot for me , not because I will be using it often, I just love brilliant engineering:coffee:

.
 
Last edited:
Nope 60p is not a standard format and other than computers very few devices can play it
Also at 60p you need to shoot at 1/125 shutter speed otherwise it is not smooth at all actually more jerky than regular footage
60p means that unless there is plenty of light you need video lights on all the time or it will jitter
 
Loads of tech data and opinions here! I can see its relativly a new camera. I'm tossing between a RX 100 and Canons S100. I really don't plan on printing out much and most of my stuff will be for the web, but I do want to take both macro and wide when i need to. I'm looking at the price and it seems quite a bit more. My question is: is it worth it over the S100?
 
Loads of tech data and opinions here! I can see its relativly a new camera. I'm tossing between a RX 100 and Canons S100. I really don't plan on printing out much and most of my stuff will be for the web, but I do want to take both macro and wide when i need to. I'm looking at the price and it seems quite a bit more. My question is: is it worth it over the S100?
I hope so because I just ordered mine yesterday! Just waiting for the Nauticam housing to come out and I should be posting pics by the end of next week.
 
Nope 60p is not a standard format and other than computers very few devices can play it
Also at 60p you need to shoot at 1/125 shutter speed otherwise it is not smooth at all actually more jerky than regular footage
60p means that unless there is plenty of light you need video lights on all the time or it will jitter

Yes 60p is not so common yet, very true. However digital video is now more advance due to not limited for TV viewing but we can play them on high end monitors or newer TV with HDMI input.
I can't get shutter speed data from my video, but that RX100 with F1.8 lens is very bright and can produce smooth panning even in rather dim light. Also true 60p need more light. Even a GoPro at 25fps and 30fps, the 25fps is more sensitive to light. I tried the RX100 50i setting against 50p setting ( me in a 50hz world ), surprisingly its low light is the same.

I have a cheapo USD500ish Toshiba TV, 40" Regza series. It HDMI can handle 50 fps from a PC. Its direct USB video player section from memory card, can't play 50fps Sony file. I use my PC for playing most videos anyway and hooked it to the 40" Toshiba via HDMI.

You need to download free player called Splash Lite, it can handle all Sony file and in fact it can also handle a Panasonic GH2 H264 file up to 176 mbps, the Driftwood hack. This is a very light program for a CPU. Better than VLC or Windows player. I am a PC guy, not Mac.

On my Dell 27" or 24", I use Nvidia GTX580 card. My CPU is a fast i7 3930K but not overclocked.
An RX100 file at 50p 28mbps setting when panning is smooth. If i output that to the Toshiba, the panning is rather jerky. So panning being jerky is not always because of the 50p but how fast your monitor is too. The scene is a recent indoor in Taiwan airport, so it is quite low light.

The same panning scene on VLC to my monitors, is rather jerky.
The same panning scene on WP 12 ( I am on W7 Ultimate ) is also jerky but not as bad as in VLC.
The smoothest is from Splash Lite. Here again video player makes a difference on how they process the image data.

Try it and tell me about it.

The problem we have is, the highest end Blue Ray spec for home use is still low end compared to computers. More so if we compare to the high end PC gaming kind of graphics. However, all video camera being digital today and each and every manufacturer can do better and better video spec, you will see faster and faster frame rate coming. It is easier and more acceptable to have faster frame speed ( which can yield better video too ) than going beyond 1080p resolution. 1080p is a crap resolution when our TV is bigger than 40" and one watch from a close distance.

I am not video expert by any means, I just like seeing all the progress made today.
 
Last edited:
I hope so because I just ordered mine yesterday! Just waiting for the Nauticam housing to come out and I should be posting pics by the end of next week.

Im sure both are greats I'm just still torn between the two. My familiarity with Canon products had me looking at the G12 vs S100, S11 won that battle. Now its just between the Sony RX100 and the Canon S100. I'm just trying to justify price vs gain of the sony product.
 
Video follows the 180 degrees shutter speed rule that basically says that shutter speed should be double the frame otherwise the footage is jerky
At 24p this means 1/50 at 30p 1/60 and at 60p 1/125
Underwater 24p and 30p are preferred if you don't want high ISO noisy videos
The difference of 1 fstop in shutter speed would be compensated by the camera with ISO so if at 30p you can shoot a scene at ISO 200 at 60p you need ISO 400, this of course at the same depth of field
If you shoot 60p at 1/60 you get sluggish jitter and need to drop half of the frames and convert back to 30p to have it looking like a proper movie
 
Last edited:

Back
Top Bottom