nitrox analyser

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Wow, I got another one just a few weeks ago after the initial post on TDS about someone having problems contacting them. Is this confirmed?

in_cavediver:
True Pity. I built the RC kit simply because it was easier to order. Mine works great with not problem. (I am an electrical engineer though). Made a few mods with a BC LP inflator connection, flowmeter and sensor mount but I am still below $100 with a very accurate and convienent analzyer
 
Dan Gibson:
Wow, I got another one just a few weeks ago after the initial post on TDS about someone having problems contacting them. Is this confirmed?


Im not sure if its a permanent thing or not. There website says: "RC Dive Technology has suspended operations until further notice."
 
ultravinnie:
...To calibrate the unit you need a tank of air and a tank with 100% oxygen. ...

Is this true? Need Both a tank of air And a tank of 100% oxygen? If so seems pretty impractical as a field analyzer.
 
ArcticDiver:
Is this true? Need Both a tank of air And a tank of 100% oxygen? If so seems pretty impractical as a field analyzer.


He also says:

ultravinnie:
this needs to be done about once a year to compensate for sensor aging.
 
the calibration needs to be done only once a year.
hook up 100% oxy : start the cal routine , wait for it to finish ( takes about 30 seconds ) . then switch to 21% ( air ) . hit the button , wait for completion ( another 30 seconds ) and done.
The cpu calculates the baseline , and the gainstep ( cpu uses a window integration algorithm with offset/gain compensation ) and updates the cal parameters in its memory ( nonvolatile :it gets written to the internal flash memory of the CPU )

operation is simple.

the unit has two buttons. You need to press and HOLD both buttons to turn it on ( prevents accidental turn-on that would run down batteries ). CPU boots and shows you the battery gauge for 2 seconds. once the battery guage disapperars you can release the buttons. if you release buttons before the unit switches off again.

hook up op LPI and look at the display. it take s15 to 20 seconds to settle.
the O2 fraction is displayed in big digtits and the smaller digits show your MOD ( in feet or Meter depending on your settings ) for the given PPO ( adjustable from 1.2 to 1.6 in steps of 0.1 )

top button is backlight ( turns on and automatically turns off after 10 seconds )
bottom button is menu access (you need to hold it for 2 seconds before menu is entered. )

menu is simple
PPO setting - feet/meter setting - aut timeout setting - cal - exit
the second button cycles through the menu the first button select an item

here are some images.
the box is made by BOX corporation ( funnybut appropriate name for a company that makes boxes. its a half shell design held together with 2 screws. the rubber bootr snaps over the box making it pretty showck proff.
the front windo is made from 2 mm lexan an dmilled down , attached to the case using tec-3 compound ( black glue silicone )

you see the standard LPF connector in the third image with the two control buttons ( yellwo and blue )

the overmold rubber is available in 7 colors ( so you can easily tell them apart : mine , the wife's , my buddy's etc )

the unit NEEDs to be connected to your LPf to give a correct reading. if left in normal air it will read low. ( the overpressure created in the sampling cavity is also taken into accoutn during the calibration )

every device has this problem. the flow of gas creates a pressure diffrential between the sampling cavitry and the sourrounding athmosphere ( however small ). the calibration measures this as well and nulls it out.

the reason i designed it the way it is is that i was not satisfied with all the stuff out there.
some of the things out there look like Mcgyver contraptions ( a box , a sensorcable , a sensor , a smpling piece ( t piece , a flow divert , a pice of tubing.... and there is always a piece missing or broken.. or the swtch was left on and the batteyr has run down.

Other design you have to hold in front of the tank and open the valve.. try getting a good reading with that. open the tank a bit too much and you are off by 2 or 3 % plus you are wasting gas like crazy.

The voltmeter style designs ( like el-cheapo ) tend to drift and you need to 'null them using a potmeter ever so often. additionally a one point calibration is no good. the sensor has a baseline ( null ofsset : if you give it no oxygen there is a residual voltage ) with onyl one trimpoint you can not get rid of that , you nly compensate the gain at one spot. that tilt of the curve may still be wrong. that was also a frustration for me

Other frustration: those sensors are expensive : 60$ and after one year you can kiss them bye bye.
I do NOT use the teledyne sensors , but a Figaro sensor. The drawback is that they are a bit slower to respond AND the electronics to read them is more complex singe you are dealing with very small signals. You are not allowed to load the sensor in any way either. even most digital voltmeter have too big a load for the sensor. ( you are not allowed to draw more then 100 picoampere : thats 10 to the power -12 ). The advantage is : the cost is the same , the sensor is smaller and it is guaranteed to work for 5 years. check it out at the manufacturers website

http://www.figarosensor.com/gaslist.html and look at the ke-25. that is what i am using.
the ke-50 is usable too but the reading is -very- slow ( it takes 4 to 5 minutes to stabilise). the only difference between the ke25 and ke50 is the gas absorbtion rate of the membrane inside. The fuel composition and amount are identical.
even though they only need one minute to 90% response they need another minute to close half of the last 10% , and then another minute for half of that. so to get a reading withing 1% : you are looking at 5 minutes. ( half times : 5,2.5,1.25,0.75 : so 4 steps to reacc below 1% line

The other sensor is much faster ( 12 seconds : same step count : 60 seconds for full readout resolution )

the KE sensors are medical grade and typically used for narcose equipment to measure oxygen absorbton of a patient under surgery.

anyway. i'll take some pictures of the guts and post them tomorrow
 
I think your onto to a good thing ...I was on a liveaboard this year with 20 divers and only two analyzers on board ,niether of which could agree on calibration. Being my first EAN dive .It made me feel I was diving by the seat of my Neoprene pants.
Keep us posted..
 
I will make plans available.

Keep in mind that this is NOT a run of the mill design. everything is surface mount technology and requires soldering skills. Flashiong the CPu requires a JTAg probe ( download cable ) but only needs to be done one during initual assembly.

if the demand is large enough i can make the assembled pcb avaialble : then it becomes easy to assemble
I dont really use 'exotic' parts although they mioght not be available at the shop around the corner . but Digikey ( an online electronics retailer ) carries everything you need ( except the sensor, display and box. the display and box come from Newark electronics : also an online electronics distri)

the flow diverter is very easy to make. All you need is a LPI connector which matches your hose ( they are like 2 or 3$ , get the one with an oring around the threads )
a piece of round delrin rod. delrin is important since it is inert material : it does not gabsorb or give out gas that can influence the sensor. Any decent plastics store has this. 4 drill bits ( one for the LPF connector hole , one for the sensor hole : 13 mm bit actually use a milling bit here since those have a flat end ( not tapered )

a fine drill: 0.7mm for the flow hole and a 2.5mm bit for the setcrew hole.

the last thing needed is a a stainles steel allen wrench setscrew to set the flowrate

here is a ascii drawing of a cross section of the delrin material :



____________________________________________________
| |
| -----------------------/\/\/\/\/
-/\/\/\/\/--- |
| |
-/\/\/\/-| |
========
-/\/\/\/-| |
| |
-/\/\/\/\/--- |
| -----------------------/\/\/\/\/
|____________________________________________________|

-drat- the site does not uses fixed size font to display.
copy and paste the above into notepad.

Hole | hole for | flow hole |
for LPI | set screw | | sensor cavity and thread for sensor
conecotr | | |

There are 'dump holes on the circumference of the sensor cavity that allow the gas to escape.
the set screw goes in from the LPI side ( before you put the LPI connecotr in. )
Once set ( you need pretty good force to get it in place. only a very minute amount of gas can pass along it ( it 'seeps' between the set screw and the delrin material , throught he flow hole and into the sensing cavity

i will try to make 3d plans as well

anyway. i have a little harbor freight milling machine at home : it takes me 15 minutes to make this including tapping the threads.
if interest is large enough i can make a kit with the necessary parts. or ready made units. They are NOT el cheapo but not super expensive etiher. raw material is around 150 to 170 dollar ( price goes down trmendously if parts can be bought in bulk. now i'm payin the 2 of this one of that price. if i can buy using the hundred of this 200 of that the price drop fast ). add some work to assemble and machine the parts.
id say you are looking at 250 to 260 $
 
Thank you very much for sharing.
I for one am interested. Could I have a yellow one please?
I was about to order and build the El Cheapo II. I like that you have corrected the gain compensation issue that exists in the voltmeter design. The reading delay is not a problem as you have solved the gas loss issue.
One thought as you use two lines on the display you could display both MOD and TOD, allowing TOD to be set and MOD to be fixed at 1.6. Display would show:
XXX m @ Y.Y
ZZZ m @ 1.6

This allow you to write down the MOD @1.6 on the dive shop log and still keep a TOD for your dive plan.

You could also have the O2 fraction blink for 20 sec or so to indicate reading in progress (or whatever else indicator is easy to program).

I would be willing to write an instruction manual to go with it as a PDF.

JL
 
RC's web site appears to be alive & well:

http://www.oxygenanalyzer.com/YOUDOIT.htm

It looks like you can place an order if you want, the order page seems to be working as well.
 
Mat4020:
He also says:

For those of you with convenient access to 100% oxygen that may be no big deal. But thinking back over the past year only one operator blended his own. Everyone else bought pre-mix from a central vendor.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom