Olympus 5050 vs 5060 vs 8080

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thanks for that, outlaw...

just a note, i got the c8080 yesterday.....was sold on it after reading a lot about it...thanks to all you guys as well...

but the big question, shall i stick with an oly pt23 housing or go with the ike????

i could really use some advice on the decision...

thanks!

-dan

outlawaggie:
I have the 8080 ($640) with an Ikelite housing ($540) I looked at all the options in the $500 to $1000 range. Although a DSLR camera is not that much more the housings seemed to be over double the price. (ie Ikelite housing for a D-70 or Digital Rebel is $1200) I got the housing and strobe for less than the housing alone for a DSLR. Something to consider.

Check out this review
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympusc8080wz/

Here's the final conclusion from the above review:

Overall conclusion
My first impression of the C-8080 Wide Zoom was, "at last a prosumer camera that feels as though it is worth its price tag". The C-8080 is built to a higher standard than any of the other eight megapixel digital cameras (save maybe the Sony DSC-F828), with a thick, high grade metal body simple rubber coating and innovative yet unfussy control layout. This is a camera which feels as well put together as a much more expensive digital SLR, you just know it's going to last. Olympus also broke the mold with the C-8080's design and although initially the camera controls may seem complex it all falls into place and changing settings (almost any setting, they're all there) become fast and logical.

The C-8080's has two major assets which set it up as an excellent 'photographic tool'. The first is the thing which dominates the camera's shape, the large lens. Olympus didn't rush to go down the 7x or 8x zoom route, instead they chose a 5x design but kept the lens diameter big and used high quality glass. This has paid off, image quality is excellent, resolution very high with almost no artifacts and no problems created by the lens itself. Of the five eight megapixel digital cameras currently on the market Sony, Canon and Olympus chose to design new lenses for the sensor, in my opinion the Olympus is the best of all. (The only improvement I could suggest would have been a mechanically linked zoom ring).

The second asset is the camera's performance, being in the right place at the right time to get that once in a lifetime shot is one thing, having the camera switched on and ready is another. Thanks to an amazingly short startup time and short auto focus and shutter release lag you're far more likely to capture the moment with the C-8080 than some of the competition, and we really shouldn't underestimate that.

Take other elements into account, good noise reduction keeping higher ISO's cleaner, a good range of image parameter adjustment, good flash performance, the unique 'direct histogram' feature, superb battery life and an excellent LCD monitor which works well even outdoors and there's little doubt the C-8080 deserves our highest rating.
 
Just a quick one, here, I'd go with Ikelite between the two choices...
I'm just not real happy with the Oly housings (PT015) for various reasons and if it's just a few? $300? more, I'd go with Ike... the cost of "ONE FLOODING" would cover that cost... and those, the OLY, housings are just built for quick photo fun, temporary use for a couple of years?? and not that easy to use... IMNSHO... but I"m cold water, so warm water might not be an issue...

As I've noted before, I'm looking at an Ike.. heheh.. but the $$ is figuring into the equation...
Good luck with the 8080 and will be curious how you like after a few dives... sounds great though...
 
fpoole:
Just a quick one, here, I'd go with Ikelite between the two choices...
I'm just not real happy with the Oly housings (PT015) for various reasons and if it's just a few? $300? more, I'd go with Ike... the cost of "ONE FLOODING" would cover that cost... and those, the OLY, housings are just built for quick photo fun, temporary use for a couple of years?? and not that easy to use... IMNSHO... but I"m cold water, so warm water might not be an issue...

As I've noted before, I'm looking at an Ike.. heheh.. but the $$ is figuring into the equation...
Good luck with the 8080 and will be curious how you like after a few dives... sounds great though...

I'm sure the Ikes are higher quality overall, but I've never had any problem with my PT-015. And I've heard as many stories of flooded Ikes as I have of flooded Olympus housings. I considered ditching my PT-015 for an Ike to get TTL but I've added a Matthias Heinreich adaptor, so I'll stick with what I have until I can upgrade.
 
lol!
thanks, gang! now i am more confused!! =)

maybe at the scuba show this year i will be sold on one or the other!

-dan
 
deputydan1:
thanks for that, outlaw...

just a note, i got the c8080 yesterday.....was sold on it after reading a lot about it...thanks to all you guys as well...

but the big question, shall i stick with an oly pt23 housing or go with the ike????

i could really use some advice on the decision...

thanks!

-dan


DON'T EVEN DREAM OF IT! ........ (using the Oly 023)

The Oly housing isn't so cheap as their smaller ones, and the Ike isn't *that* much more. (especially when viewed as a percentage of the entire package cost)

It would definately be False Economy to use the Oly. .... It will do little more than strangle all the great features and capabilities the camera posseses.

Look at how the ports are set up on both (atachment and seal), one slight whack and the Oly history. ... Not to mention the fact of being so flash choice limited.

Additionally, the Ike has true TTL ... and if you later add the wide angle adapter lense, (a very nice add on) with the Ike, you can still get the camera out of the housing without taking off the port and lense. Any time you have to remove a port and mess with a seal that's been fine, you open the door to problems.

If you buy the Oly now, just to save a few bucks, you'll end up hating yourself in the morning. (or at least kicking yourself after you used it a while and know what you're missing)


post some pics,

Darlene
 
thanks for that, darlene

i will seriously look into the ike housing.....you made some valid points...

but gosh, $600 for a housing is not cheap for me!! aiyaya!! =(

-dan

Scuba_Vixen:
DON'T EVEN DREAM OF IT! ........ (using the Oly 023)

The Oly housing isn't so cheap as their smaller ones, and the Ike isn't *that* much more. (especially when viewed as a percentage of the entire package cost)

It would definately be False Economy to use the Oly. .... It will do little more than strangle all the great features and capabilities the camera posseses.

Look at how the ports are set up on both (atachment and seal), one slight whack and the Oly history. ... Not to mention the fact of being so flash choice limited.

Additionally, the Ike has true TTL ... and if you later add the wide angle adapter lense, (a very nice add on) with the Ike, you can still get the camera out of the housing without taking off the port and lense. Any time you have to remove a port and mess with a seal that's been fine, you open the door to problems.

If you buy the Oly now, just to save a few bucks, you'll end up hating yourself in the morning. (or at least kicking yourself after you used it a while and know what you're missing)


post some pics,

Darlene
 
deputydan1:
thanks for that, darlene

i will seriously look into the ike housing.....you made some valid points...

but gosh, $600 for a housing is not cheap for me!! aiyaya!! =(

-dan


If memory serves me, the Ike from B&H was $509 and from Helix was $549, back when I bought mine last spring. They *may* have come down by now.

The Oly was close to $500 from my LDS, so it's probably at least $300 and change online. That would put the Ike within about $200. Comparatively small change in the overall scheme of things. - Especially- if you're contemplating a strobe some where down the road.

Much like any gear purchase, better to have it right the first time around,


Darlene
 
All my SLR housings,strobes and arms are Ikelite... I just happen to get an Olympus PT-23 for $250 new. As far as the 23's limited strobe bulkhead feedthru design, I just installed a TTL feedthru from my Ikelite SLR housings , so now I can use all my TTL strobes ( But I still set to shoot in manual mode).

And while you are saving up for a $$$ strobe. ( Hint: $100 Ikelites on ebay)

The 23 is ready to go right out of the box because you can use the pop up internal flash, with the Ikelite, the internal flash does not work (housing is not tall enough). The 23 also has the the best UW "lightbox" (included) that I have seen. Since the internal flash is sitting so high, the light can shoot over the top of the port via the lightbox to give a soft fill light in manual or TTL mode.

The port locking pins maybe of a concern, I did bang the port around during a pressure test, no problems with the double oring seal. Heck, for the price of the housing at $250 I could just super glue the port to the housing! And end all fears! The Ikelike dome port alone is $275 thats more than the 23! I am also making a tray frame around the entire housing to hold the strobe and protect the port.

Again this is not for everyone, the 8080 for my use, will be for fish portraits and macro only. The wide-angles will still be covered by the film SLRs until I save up enough for a D2x! And no, I still do not believe in a wide-angle add on lens for the PandS.

If I had the extra money, I would most likely get the Ikelite, but I don't.

Dive Safe
 
f3nikon:
All my SLR housings,strobes and arms are Ikelite... I just happen to get an Olympus PT-23 for $250 new. As far as the 23's limited strobe bulkhead feedthru design, I just installed a TTL feedthru from my Ikelite SLR housings , so now I can use all my TTL strobes ( But I still set to shoot in manual mode).

And while you are saving up for a $$$ strobe. ( Hint: $100 Ikelites on ebay)

The 23 is ready to go right out of the box because you can use the pop up internal flash with the Ikelite the internal flash does not work (housing is not tall enough). The 23 also has the the best UW "lightbox" (included) that I have seen. Since the internal flash is sitting so high, the light can shoot over the top of the port via the lightbox give a soft fill light in manual or TTL mode.

The port locking pins maybe of a concern, I did bang the port around during a pressure test, no problems with the double oring seal. Heck, for the price of the housing at $250 I could just super glue the port to the housing! And end all fears! The Ikelike dome port alone is $275 thats more than the 23! I am also making a tray frame around the entire housing to hold the strobe and protect the port.

Again this is not for everyone, the 8080 for my use, will be for fish portraits and macro only. The wide-angles will still be covered by the film SLRs until I save up enough for a D2x! And no, I still do not believe in a wide-angle add on lens for the PandS.

If I had the extra money, I would most likely get the Ikelite, but I don't.

Dive Safe


I can see where intended use *may* make the 023 a reasonable choice.

Almost all my photography is of wrecks, and mostly inside, where most divers will never get to see. There's lots of very tight spaces and odd things to bump into. Handing up a camera rig onto a heaving boat in rough seas sometimes goes along with the trip. Anything *even close* to fragile or at risk, doesn't cut it.

Why limit what you can reasonably do from the get-go .....

The pic below was shot from inside a tiny wheelhouse, the wide angle adapter makes it seem much larger, the companionway leading up to it is certainly no piece of cake with the camera set-up and doubles.

Darlene


edit: Resizing it down lost a great deal of clarity, the original in jpg is close to 4 megs.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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