Oxygen cleaning questions

[scubaalblake]

I am a trained technician and have serviced a lot of regs however I am just starting O2 cleaning for 100% usage.
I've read 10,000 posts(!) and the oxyhacker book and I know all about contamination and explosions(!).
Did my first, first-stage today with simple-green/vinegar in sonic/simple-green/rinse x 3.

But I'm left with a few questions:

1. Today I cleaned with simple-green, then vinegar, then simple green again. The rinsed multiple times. Then did the 'shake test' on the wash water. Now the shake test is testing for residual simple green. I get it that you dont want loads of SG on your cleaned parts - but what is the risk here? My understanding is that oxygen and hydrocarbons is where the big risk is (ie of combustion). So what is the risk if a trace of SG is left behind?

2. Some folks are using distilled water to rinse. Why? As above the risk we are addressing is hydrocarbons and combustion, so why would distilled water make any difference? Maybe I am lucky (in Australia) but their ain't no hydrocarbons in our tap- water

3. I understand about not getting skin oils onto the parts and using gloves. But why do people specify 'latex' gloves. Is there any reason why the 'non-latex' food preparation gloves from the supermarket wont do the trick? Some people are allergic to latex and once again its about preventing oils and grease getting into the HP O2 stream so cant see the speification of 'latex' being important.

Thoughts? what have I missed?

BTW one tip that was brilliant was to wipe the 'clean' parts with makeup pads. Showed me that the reg body wasnt as clean as I thought it was (in the threads) so back in the SG for the third time. Those pads really show up dirt clearly.

 

[Julius SCHMIDT]

And then you're going to install it in someones chest right.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

The shake or water break test is not to test for simple green residue. It's to test for oils. Oil is lighter than water and will leave a sheen on the surface similar to what you see in a puddle at a gas station after a rain.
Crystal simple green (the clear stuff) doesn't leave a residue. Even better if you rinse with hot water.

Or just get a UV light and look for traces of organics on the parts. The room needs to be fairly dark and get a good jeweler's UV light. Not one of the cheapos.
Then for fun, go check your bathroom or bedroom with it.

Depending on where you are, tap water may be ok. Well water may have traces of hydrocarbons or more likely the water is hard with dissolved salts and minerals in it. If this is the case those salts and minerals are similar to saltwater if you don't get them rinsed,

Nitrile gloves are fine. Plastic gloves are fine. Latex is not absolutely required. With new gloves if there is any question, just put the gloves on and wash your hands with Dawn or similar dishwashing liquid and air dry them. Wiping the outside of the reg body with makeup pads is overkill. Once the reg is sealed up nothing it going to get inside that you don't put in there via the cylinder accidental dunking without being on a cylinder.

As soon as that reg goes in the water the body is contaminated. Same with the second stage which is why "O2 clean" second stages are nothing special other than Viton or other O2 compatible o-rings and Tribolube. You can do all the steps but as soon as the reg goes into the water every surface comes into contact with contaminants.

 

[GJC]

I am a trained technician and have serviced a lot of regs however I am just starting O2 cleaning for 100% usage.
I've read 10,000 posts(!) and the oxyhacker book and I know all about contamination and explosions(!).
Did my first, first-stage today with simple-green/vinegar in sonic/simple-green/rinse x 3.

But I'm left with a few questions:

1. Today I cleaned with simple-green, then vinegar, then simple green again. The rinsed multiple times. Then did the 'shake test' on the wash water. Now the shake test is testing for residual simple green. I get it that you dont want loads of SG on your cleaned parts - but what is the risk here? My understanding is that oxygen and hydrocarbons is where the big risk is (ie of combustion). So what is the risk if a trace of SG is left behind?

2. Some folks are using distilled water to rinse. Why? As above the risk we are addressing is hydrocarbons and combustion, so why would distilled water make any difference? Maybe I am lucky (in Australia) but their ain't no hydrocarbons in our tap- water

3. I understand about not getting skin oils onto the parts and using gloves. But why do people specify 'latex' gloves. Is there any reason why the 'non-latex' food preparation gloves from the supermarket wont do the trick? Some people are allergic to latex and once again its about preventing oils and grease getting into the HP O2 stream so cant see the speification of 'latex' being important.

Thoughts? what have I missed?

BTW one tip that was brilliant was to wipe the 'clean' parts with makeup pads. Showed me that the reg body wasnt as clean as I thought it was (in the threads) so back in the SG for the third time. Those pads really show up dirt clearly.

1. The purpose of soap (Simple Green) is to dissolve hydrocarbons and carry them away with the rinse water. If you have soap left over, you may have hydrocarbons in the soap. Remove all the soap.

2. A lot of municipal and well water supplies have sodium, calcium and other salts in them. Municipal water supplies are also treated with chlorine and add fluoride. If you don't want those things in your tank, use distilled water for at least your final rinse.

3. Just use good quality gloves that won't leave bits of material behind if you rub them against something like threads that can abraid the glove material. Some cheap food grade groves start to dissolve when exposed to hydrocarbons or solvents. Also check that the gloves are not coated with anything. Sometimes they are coated with powder or other material to prevent them from sticking to themselves in storage.

Be careful with your makeup pads so that you do not leave lint, oil, solvents or particles behind that may be in the makeup pad.

 

[tbone1004]

This stuff is slightly excessive in terms of quantity, but the company actually has oxygen cleaning of scuba equipment on their description sheet. In the 5g tub it will probably be a lifetime supply of cleaner for a dive shop, heaven forbid an individual, but simple green is very useful for other applications.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-Green-5-Gal-Extreme-Aircraft-and-Precision-Cleaner-0100000113405/301277024

Compressed Gas Cleaning - Simple Green

Simple Green | EN-US | Cleaning Uses | Compressed Gas Cleaning

simplegreen.com

 

[greeniguana]

Alconox.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

This stuff is slightly excessive in terms of quantity, but the company actually has oxygen cleaning of scuba equipment on their description sheet. In the 5g tub it will probably be a lifetime supply of cleaner for a dive shop, heaven forbid an individual, but simple green is very useful for other applications.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-Green-5-Gal-Extreme-Aircraft-and-Precision-Cleaner-0100000113405/301277024

Compressed Gas Cleaning - Simple Green

Simple Green | EN-US | Cleaning Uses | Compressed Gas Cleaning

simplegreen.com

I thought we wanted the SG Crystal for O2 cleaning?

 

[tbone1004]

I thought we wanted the SG Crystal for O2 cleaning?

Crystal is what we have been using, I was just made aware of the Extreme a year or two ago. For personal use it certainly doesn't matter, but if I was O2 cleaning for a customer that was paying then I'd much rather have the stuff that says it's designed for making parts oxygen compatible.

 

[happy-diver]

Washing powder gets it all off, won't beat it, the hardest part is asking your wife where the washing powder is at

 

[happy-diver]

WHOOPS!