Specifically where were these dives? I would love to see a school of Silkys, Silvertips, Bullshark etc....People I have talked to who have dove Cocos, Galapagos, Palau etc say the finest diving anywhere they have done is the Eastern Fields....Only one boat that does it is MV GoldenDawn. Unfortunately their trips are usually 14 days....and I do not love a Liveaboards.
There is no doubt what you are saying about PNG is some of the best diving in the world and more creatures than anywhere else in the world. That is why I am headed to Raja Ampat in the next week. The thing about Palau is if you want to see a WWII wreck (planes or ships), Cuttlefish & Nudis...then be in ripping currents with Mantas, Dogtooth Tuna, Wrasses and sometimes 50 sharks in your face in the same day.....they have all the different spots. That is what I like about Palau.
The area you are talking about is that the Walandi area?....I have been looking at staying at the Walandi resort but need to combine it with another spot. I really do not want to hijack this thread but could you tell me the spots you were at in PNG...sounds like my kind of diving.
Yes Travelnsj, that is why I persist, you would almost certainly dig PNG. But unfortunately, much of the good stuff is only accessed by liveaboard, and GD in particular.
The bull and silky sharks were seen on the once a year GD trip from Alotau to Port Moresby along the very rugged, uninhabited south coast. There is a barrier reef there that is quite long, which drops away very deep into the Coral Sea, and there is a great wreck there too, the Maritime Hibiscus. Captain Craig is a big animal fan and knows how to find them. He tells me there are also reliable big bull shark sightings near Karkar, a large volcanic island near Madang. The bull we saw on the south coast was the biggest Craig or I have ever seen, they're not supposed to get that big. And the Eastern Fields itineraries are very good for big stuff, with any trips to Portlock or points beyond being the best. The soft corals are not as colorful at Portlock, but that's where I saw the big school of silvertips hangng in the current and the great hammer.
Walindi is not the best for sharks as the land based boats can't get as far out into the deeper parts of the bay, but I did get to snorkel wth a group of pilot and melon head whales on the way back from one of the farther Walindi dive sites. There is good grey reef shark action in the Witu islands, but they are reached only by LOB. l slso saw a small saltwater crocodile out there. The crew gave me a hard time for bailing out on the night dive, but all I could think of was where are the little guy's parents?
If you are determined to avoid LOBs, then your 2 best bets for big stuff in PNG are Aquaventures in Kavieng and Tufi dive resort. Tufi is close enough to the seamounts and some fringing reefs that they get good shark action on the longer trips out. I think they can also get to the intact B-17 wreck if you can deal with a long day on the boat.
If you've ever thought about trying a LOB, GD should be the one you try. I've spent a lot of time on her and never seen anybody get seasick. Most stable boat, best food and most dedicated diving Captain I've come accross... -Andy
