grafphoto:
I have read good things about that area. Any particular reason to book at one resort, then drive to another? Or is Red M not a resort?
Any shore diving in Tobago?
No shore diving that I'm aware of.
I've been there always during the Caribbean Hurricane Season and once had the Orinoco River's outflow cover the top 25' with root beer brown waters. It added to the surreal nature of the trip. Did it matter? Not really.
When most divers thought of diving in Tobago (up until 5 years ago) they thought only of the Southern end near where the cruise ships disgorge passengers. This includes the famous Buccoo Reef which appears in every dive/travel book than mmentions the area.
The better diving is out of the North end, a two and a half hour drive through twisting mountainous road- which are good but dark. Drive them at 20 mph and you'll have no problem. The cars drive from the right side for added excitement.
I prefer diving in Speyside. Just over the ridge, the last town on the end is Charlottesville. I prefer the breeze and variety afforded by the Atlantic and Speyside.
In my opinion, the Blue Waters Inn has far and away the best guest rooms. We did buy the breakfast package there.
For the first week, we dove with their dive op, owned and managed by an outside concern. Other than the pier and boats, the dive op was mediocre by any Caribbean standard. The folks up this way are used to dealing with divers who want two tanks a day, not your common hondo diver. Their cre, altho brilliantly competent were not to be pushed or looked to for dazzling service.
My buddy, who had done only 75 dives at CoCoView looked at me and said, "This isn't right, is it?". At that point, we figured out who the guy next to us was Mark, the Editor of PADI Sport UK, and we staged a mutiny. We politely asked to go to the fabled dive sites like Washing Machine, Heart Attack and African Express... IF the DM thought they were safe on that day. The DM looked at us and disappeared into the dive shop for ten minutes. He went into a room alone. When he came out, he agreed. Doing us a favor.
Their schedule left little or no time for lunch, certainly nothing more than drinking fluids and wolfing snacks at your room- no way to eat there or in town by driving in. Not gonna happen.
After that, we drove the steep hill the 4 min utes to Red Man (RedM) and dove with the old local master. Ratty but reliable boat, big wide open dory, walk thru the surf as they'll carry your gear, be ready to cruise a long while and be ready to jump in when this strong affable black man and his son Leon cry out, "Mantas". He will take you diving as much as you want, night dives every night, and his wife will cook you lunch every day including Hot Roti.
RedM is right next to the Manta Lodge. I would not stay there as it's just too noisy and compact- a great place to 'take over by a 15 person dive group- a green wooden moray decorates the bar rail and a nice little pool. The lovely Speyside Inn is right next door (but much quieter) and then comes RedMans dive op and then his wife's restaurant. More restaurants down the way.
I have been told that Peter Hughes has a boat there. You'll probably get a few more dives in, a lot more variety, and see a lot more u/w architecture- but you'll miss knowing this island and its wonderful people.
The waters of Tobago are where you go to get schooled in currents, surface recoveries, etc. It is an excellent stepping stone for Galapagos, but after diving Tobago's African Express, she looked at me and asked, "Was I supposed to be scared?" Hell, Mark and I were, does that give you any indication?
Go look at this:
http://www.turq.com/trips/trinidad5.html
Hope that helps!
