Hello Alison, I've been to Eastern Fields, Moresby, Milne Bay, along the Papuan Barrier Reef btw Milne and Moresby, Madang and the Volcanic islands, Kimbe and Kavieng. It's all great. Really. There are differences, but I would recomend a Milne bay itinerary first, one that includes some of the sites that are farther out, so you get some good pelagic and shark activity. On 1 dive there last year I saw Hammerheads, Silvertips, tons of Reef sharks, a giant Sand Tiger and a HUGE Oceanic Manta. It was fantastic. Later on the same site I saw a Lacy Scorpian Fish. That 1 dive pretty much gives a great account of PNG. I would recomend the Golden Dawn over most other boats(Telita is also a nice boat, newly refurbished)as she is the most stable, has great food, only takes a maximum of 10 and has an outstanding, very active diver Capt. named Craig de Wit. He's also an avid recreational rebreather diver, like myself. He got me into diving rebreathers and I will never go back to open circuit. You see so much more wild life when you're not making noisy bubbles. If you're at all curious about diving with a rebreather, Craig is an incredible resource. I've done all my trips on his boat and I'm going back again soon. If you want to talk to him, there is a phone on the vessel. It's the same rate as calling Australia. The number is listed in the Lonely Planet guide, which you should definitely get. Or go to the web site and email him. I'm envious of your proximity. I just got back from a trip to Komodo, which was great, but not as good as PNG. If I lived in NZ, I'd go there even more. Oh, and I've never bothered with Malaria meds, as per all the PNG residents advice. It's not worth the expense and the potential bad DCS like side effects. Just put on some insect repellent if you wind up close to shore at night. That's all I did and had no problems during any of the many weeks I spent there-Andy