Trip Report Raja Ampat & Bali August 2023

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Luko

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Location
Paris, France
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Time for a quick illustrated report on my last dives in Indonesia / august 2023.

First part : Raja Ampat Cove Eco resort

This time we selected Cove Eco resort, which is primarily targeted to european customers (french owned) and a little under the radar, located west of Dampier almost halfway between Penemu and Gam. This area is less dived than the central Dampier zone as there are only a few homestays and only two resorts Raja4divers and Cove Eco, except for Penemu and Piaynemo area we almost had the dive sites for ourselves. August might not be the best time although quite enjoyable as there are NO liveaboards around, we mostly had grey skies part of the each day (less cloudy than Sorong), sometimes rain (not so much) more often bumpy rides on the speedboats, be prepared for trips standing up on the boat if you want to protect your backbone.
Cove is located on its own island Yeben island, it takes 2:30 hrs ride from Sorong to Waisai then 1:30hrs speedboat ride west, approx 30 minutes past Raja4divers. problem is that the ferry departs from Sorong at 9AM, hence you have to take a redeye flight (which I despise) or overnight in Sorong (which we did)... or both...

We stayed at Swiss Belotel for the night, which was nice located quite near to the ferry harbour, the rooms and the lobby were very clean, the restaurant had a good food choice (lunch and dinner), served in a very reasonable waiting time, nothing comparable to some of the remote indonesian city hotels. The frontdesk staff spoke good english & was very helpful at finding us a car/driver for a "city/shopping tour" (100kIDR=7$ per hour). Unfortunately on a sunday almost everything was closed we couldn't find anywhere to buy some local art, nor where to have dinner so after a couple of hours we went back to the hotel, from the last visit I made to Sorong I was surprized with the number of city hotels newly opened or opening.

There are 10 bungalows on the resort all aircon accomodating 20 guests max in total. A third of the customers were either snorkelers or non divers. Various nationalities represented, only 2 americans guests, the rest being nationals from various european countries (IT, FR, CH, NL, UK, SP), mostly families with kids or teens.
There are two white sand beaches 10 minutes walk and a jetty just in front of the resort wher you can lie on sunchairs or dive
The resort can bring out 4 speedboats ranging from 2*50hp to 2*150hp for the most powerful, dedicated to snorkelers. We had the smaller speedboat on our own for 2 diver/photographers. Needless to say, we commanded the dives we wanted to do with our private guide and boatcrew.
Food is good (even very good for Raja Ampat standards), ordered the day before. Expect croissants, pancakes and/or eggs for breakfast, fusion style plates often prawn/fish based (sometimes quite elaborated) for lunch (2 courses+fruit) and dinner (3 courses incl. dessert), plus a sweet snack for teatime.

Sunset on Cove resort transfer speedboat :



Dive wise, they usually do 2 dives in the morning plus an afternoon dive or full day trips, after a few days we tended to chose the second option, since there are not many sites around for afternoon dives. They can provide for a night dive, but we were too lazy and satisfied with the day dives to try one. The jetty is an excellent 3rd dive though with schools of jackfish, snappers and batfish around the pillars.
There is a trip to Piaynemo included in the package every wednesday. They can also organize daytrips to Kri/Mansuar areas with a minimum number of participants as well as a financial supplement on top.

Just to summarize the areas we dived in one week and some photos for each area

Gam/Yengeffo area : citrus ridge, Mayhem, Yenggefo, mangroves,.. 30-40 minutes boat ride.
Some spectacular fish packed action like Mayhem, schools of fish and gorgonians in Yenggefo reef, as well as very shallow mangroves in Yenggefo or Citrus ridge, perfect for practising over unders.

Fusiliers on Gam channel


Wobbegong on Citrus Ridge


Mangroves


into the mangroves :


Mayhem


Gorgonians on Yenggefo



Penemu/Fam area : Melissa's garden, Anita's garden, Fam channel, Rufus island, etc. 40 minutes to an hour ride, depending on the sea... we just couldn't imagine how long it would take for smaller boats we saw coming from Kri with only 2*40hp engines and 6 divers onboard !!

I was somehow disappointed with Melissa's garden, lots of small fish and hard coral fields but a lack of a "dramatic" reefscape, in that respect I thought Rufus ridge was absolutely world class with tons of fusiliers, damselfish, surgeonfish passing through the gorgonians and into the arch (Rufus ridge could be Penemu's response to the famous Boo's windows), good diving as well in Fam channel.

Melissa's garden


Fam channel reefscape


Anita's garden


- To be continued -
 
A special for Rufus ridge in Penemu, my favorite dive of the trip :

Rufus ridge from the outside


Rufus ridge arch


Rufus ridge lagoon



Local sites around Yeben : Yeben rock, Manta cove, Cove Jetty, Yefnabi island. from 10 to 20 minutes boat ride.

They have their own manta site which is alive with manta rays around the year, my last dive in R4 in august was a 70 minutes dive with mantas swimming around from the beginning to the end (probably 10 different specimens seen, color ranging to almost albinos white to fully black) while in Central Dampier they wouldn't spot one manta in July/august. Add on top that a gang of cheeky batfishes which is always ready to pose, in between mantas flying by.
I already wrote that the jetty was fanstatic for schools of fish, we had our own private jackfish school to shoot whenever we liked to. We tried to look for the multiple baby blacktip sharks we weer seeing each day walking on the planks, but they were too hard to approach.

Pygmy seahorse, macro in Yeben rock


Jackfish school out of the jetty


Jackfish school under the jetty


Batfish gang at Manta cove


Mantas on cleaning pinnacle


Family photo with all the manta cove tribe


Jolly Roger black manta
 
Great report, Luko. I'll be there in March after a long absence. Your photos are a superb teaser.
 
Visibility looked pretty decent too! Great report from one of the best places to dive in the world!
 
Great report and photos - and thanks for your help/guidance ! We will be there from the end of March
 
Thank you Ludovic .
Great report and amazing photos ( ... as usual ! )
... from your Raja Ampat buddy diver
:cheers:
You can jump in, you're welcome to post your own feedback/images on this trip, buddy!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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