Repair kit for 2nd stage Scubapro MK5

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I bought a few different NON-Scubapro DIN connectors to try on my MK5s before I finally gave up and just waited to find genuine Scubapro. One of the ones I tried looks similar to the OP's DIN. The main problem with using other brands is that almost all use a bottom sealing O-ring. Most would probably work fine on a MK10, but the MK5 needs a side sealing O-ring position. When the MK5 DIN connector is installed the saddle supports some of the torque applied and it does not bottom out in the hole. Most DIN connector I found would allow for a side seal O-ring but all bottomed out before the O-ring was deep enough in the hole for my comfort level. The photo below shows a DIN connector similar to the OP's and as you can see it is beveled were the O-ring needs to go like an MK10 DIN. The O-ring is almost visible when the connector is bottomed out in the hole and O-ring extrusion seems like a possibility. It might be possible to modify a MK10 style connector to work by removing some material from the base, but I would still be worried were the torque is being applied.

View attachment 216291View attachment 216292

The saddle should not be taking any of the torque. All 22 ft-lb should be applied between the din retainer and the Mk5 body. I have one with a Mk5 din (but it does have a plastic handwheel) and one that is rigged with a Scubapro Universal retainer. The Universal retainer will accept an o-ring on the end for application on a Mk10 or Mk20/25, or on the side for use on a Mk2. I added a couple brass washers between the body and the retainer to correct the length and it works great. I used the saddle from a Mk20 and trimmed away a bit of the inner plastic ring to prevent binding of the din wheel. Omitting the saddle is not all that bad, but it really needs them gland to hold the o-ring on the side and the torque to be applied to the body. Without the added washers, the correct torque may damage the sealing o-ring as it starts to enter the area of the body threads.
 
I don't know if the MK5 saddle needs to shoulder some of the torque, but I believe it does. If you compare a plastic MK10 saddle with a late model plastic MK5 saddle you will see that the MK5 has a brass insert to support pressure from the DIN / Yoke bolt. It may support just enough pressure to keep the saddle from rattling around.
 
I don't know if the MK5 saddle needs to shoulder some of the torque, but I believe it does. If you compare a plastic MK10 saddle with a late model plastic MK5 saddle you will see that the MK5 has a brass insert to support pressure from the DIN / Yoke bolt. It may support just enough pressure to keep the saddle from rattling around.

None of my Mk5/10/20 saddles have any play but the metal saddles do. Mk2's have no saddle but do have the same 22 ft-lb torque requirement. I doubt if the bodys need any force protection from the saddle.
 
IMG_0797.JPGIMG_0799.JPG
 
For my second stage, it's compatible tue G200 repair kit ? Because in my city, there aren't any kit in seller.

Yes, the G200 kit should work.
 
Perfect. I'm trying to reassemblee the second stage but the poppet assy doesn't work.

when i push the diagrapham valve, it crush and doesn't return more on. Wich is the corret method for reassemble the diagrapham assy, poppet assy, spring and adj knob?
 
You might not have the installed the poppet so that the feet catch on the lever securely. Install the lever, then poppet, then spring, spring pad, adjustment knob. Then adjust the orifice so that there is no free flow, then tighten the orifice 1/8 turn more. Then install the diaphragm, diaphragm cover, case cover. There are lots of threads about this if you search.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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