Rs-130

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

jl_va_21

Contributor
Messages
135
Reaction score
3
Location
Mid-Atlantic (USA)
# of dives
100 - 199
I have an RS-130 regulator. I like it. I have two questions:

1. I'm about to start using it for Nitrox. If I understand correctly, it is good for blends up to 40%, anything else I should know?

2. I've played around with the flow control knob a little but don't really understand the best times when one settings is more appropriate than another. What are the general rules here? My original thinking was that I might use my air more slowly with it turned down all the way, but now I'm thinking that might use it up faster since I'm probably having to breath harder. Am I totally missing the point?
 
Hello,
You are correct. The RS-130 out of the box can be used with Nitrox blends up to 40%. Be sure that your regulator has been serviced by a certified TUSA technician from your TUSA retailer.

The S-30 is an adjustable second stage. The Flow Adjustment Mechanism when turned counter clockwise, allows for easier breathing. Turning the knob clockwise of course stiffens the breathing by adding more spring tension against the low pressure seat. Respiration rate and air consumption rate vary greatly while diving according to environmental conditions. Your body will consume less air with the least amount of resistance.
 
That is interesting. When I initially got the regulator, I was thinking that I could tighten it up more to make myself breath the air more slowly, I've gotten to where I pretty much have it turned all the way (clockwise) by default. My air consumption is not great. Now that I think about it though, it makes perfect sense that my body is still going to want to breath the same amount, I'm just making it work harder to get it (which practice probably uses up more air in its own right).

Perhaps on my next dive, I'll try opening it up all the way just so I can feel the difference. Then I can start trying to find the happy medium.

What environmental factors should I expect to encourage one setting over the other. I've read that a strong current can cause free flows so I guess I'd want it tighter in that case. What about depths or temperatures? Other than the effects they have on my body (and its desired for air) what impact does it have on the regulator that I'd want to account for using the knob? Any?
 
jl Hello, I used the Tusa RS-130 before. Set the knob to the least resistence without freeflow. This will be very comfortable when you breath, the more you relax, the less air you will consume. In current, as it pushes against the purge button, it may start to freeflow, that's when you tighten it up a notch. It should be good for standard Recreational diving limits.
 
Thanks, that makes sense. I've been reading about regs a little more online lately. I guess I didn't quite understand that part as well as I thought, when I bought it. I can't wait for warm weather to come so I can try it out.

On my last day of diving I did the opposite, I had it turned down tight all the way. I did a 78' dive, a 50' dive, and a 22' dive, each of which lasted 40 minutes or less. Hopefully I can improve on those numbers next time.
 
I recently had my annual service done. They gave me a print out of the results:

1st/2nd stage
Intermediate Pressure - 149
Crack Pressure - 1.1

octo
Crack Pressure - 1.9

Can anyone tell me what that all means? Are those numbers normal? good/bad?
 
We recommend you contact the service center that conducted the work, they could clearly explain to you the numbers with specifics regarding your equipment.
The numbers denote the IP (intermediate pressure) in the 1st stage - typically 140-150 and they cracking pressure or "effort" to begin the flow to the second stage - these numbers look OK as well. Again, the dealer that did the repair should be able to explain easily.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom