Rx100 Close-Ups from Truk Lagoon

[Interceptor121]

When you shoot in manual you are setting all parameters for the camera including the aperture now the strobe TTL will use generally an centred average metering to evaluate when the exposure is correct according to the set aperture and at that point stop firing.

In general the problem can be that the camera TTL mechanism is not interepreted well by the strobe that ends up firing too late or stopping too late because of an issue of the STTL

If you get good shots then you trust it if not you shoot manual. Personally I do not compensate Ev on the strobe but if I see that there is a default overexposure I change the flash exposure compensation. To date I never had to do that and I don't even bother looking at histograms

Sometimes you do get clipped highlights with some reflecting parts of the frame in general there is nothing you can do other than closing the aperture and if you are maxed out that is it

Once a picture is underexposed of a small bit you can increase exposure level in lightroom, however if you clip an highlight or end up with no whites and many blacks some tones will be done and won't reapper again

 

[ivakdiver]

Another factor for the underexposures was that I had the camera at F/11 and 1/500th. So, if I was a bit further away from the subject it would be underexposed. f/8 at 250th or 1/125th, might have been better.
Another UK photographer had contacted me about the problem encountered when using Manual and f/8 , f/11 in darker waters. You simply can't see anything in the LCD screen, until you press the shutter release slightly , the camera focuses and takes the shot. I know when I took the photos at night I had one of my Nocturnal lights attached to the back of my left hand and kept the strobe focusing light on throughout most of the dive. So, there was a fair amount of light for me to see and for the camera to focus etc.
Can anything else be done? We're both thinking that this will be a problem even during the day in some of the darker waters we encounter in the UK and in Canada.

 

[Interceptor121]

The YS-01 offers around guide number 5-5.5 in water
You can comfortably shoot at distances up to half a meter and the exposure will be fine at f/11 further away it won't make it
The strobe will most likely dump a full charge but the picture will be exposed correctly even with your settings
The shutter speed only controls the background and makes the water turn out black. I don't see specific issues with that in your pictures actually they are nice from that point of view
I think in this case you creates yourself a problem reducing the Ev of maybe half stop and ended up under, next time leave the default setting
The other pictures seem fine so you are on the right track for sure

 

[ivakdiver]

Shark photos. I won't start a new thread but add these photos to this one. Taken with Rx100. Have done a lot of post editing (cropping, conversion to B&W and blemish removal) with most of these as the water got pretty stirred up but as this is the closest I have ever been to these magnificent creatures, it was worth working on. I used the FIX UWL-28M52 lens on this dive with one YS-D1 strobe with a Nikon Sb-105 in slave mode. Manual mode ISO 100, f5.6, 1/250th

 

[bentax]

just an fyi. i see a lot of references from people pretty much defaulting their iso setting on the rx100 to iso 100. where as the rx100's native iso is actually 125. this should be used as base iso where possible for maximum dynamic range.

 

[Interceptor121]

just an fyi. i see a lot of references from people pretty much defaulting their iso setting on the rx100 to iso 100. where as the rx100's native iso is actually 125. this should be used as base iso where possible for maximum dynamic range.

Dynamic range is not available if you shoot RAW (as you should) anyway. The dynamic range comes from moving the ISO up a notch. The RX100 has two settings one is taking a camera shot with HDR (only for ambient light) and the second is the Sony dynamic range optimisation that works only on jpegs

 

[bentax]

sure it is.

Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-RX100 In-Depth Review: Digital Photography Review

when you move from iso 125 the highlights are going to clip sooner. not helpful when using flash.

 

[Interceptor121]

Those are JPEG tone curves not RAW. RAW is not affected by any processing routine of the sensor and any image processing is not executed by the camera.
When you then display the shot RAW on the LCD if the DRO is set to on the RX100 produces a small JPEG to show you what the image would look like

But in essence in RAW nothing is done to the image that is why is called RAW. Using Sony Image converter you can then reapply the D-range optimizer if you wanted to
Operations : Adjustment | Image Data Converter | Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera "±" | Sony

So in short those settings are irrelevant for RAW images and you can shoot with whatever ISO you want. If you instead you take JPEGs or Movies you have to use the 'base' ISO of 125 actually in movie mode it does not even let you choose a lower one

 

[loveIIdive]

Great photos. I have the same camera, housing and strobe. Is the Inon lens your first choice for macro? A macro lens is my next purchase.

 

[ivakdiver]

I chose the Inon lens and have been pleased with it.