Saba Trip Report

[erichK]

Hi ErichK

I share your preference for Dominica over Saba. I found the diving itself quite superior in terms of fish life and corals and the topside...whew! As dramatic as Saba's scenery is, it pales in comparison to the splendor of DOminica. Did you have a chance to do any exploring on the island? Some of the hikes i enjoyed there will remain in my memory forever!

During both my visits there, I stayed at Castle Comfort and dove with Dive Dominica. The accomodations were very comfortable if not luxuious and the dive op excellent. I also spent a week each time at the Papilotte up near Trafalgar Falls. Beautiful.

Best,

We dove two or three times every day, so only managed a walk from Soufriere up to the Sulphur pool and the drive and hike to Middleham Falls (not that this three hours plus of hiking, fording and sometimes almost climbing through rainforest was a minor matter!) It was certainly a great experience--the flowers and plants are incredible, but we should have given it more time. Also, it should probably not have been done after two days and a night dive the day before and two dives that day...at least not by people our age. Two of the three of us made it to the Falls them, but neither of us had the chutzpah left to emulate our (wonderful!) guide, Peter, and jump into the pool below them, sweat-soaked though we were.

We dove with Nature Island Dive, mostly in Soufriere Bay. The diving was fantastic, and they are probably the nicest people and the most pleasant dive operation we have ever had the fortune to dive. Three local, very knowledgable and caring, relaxed but still enthusiastic divemasters and Simon Walsh, a superb photographer and very expert instructor and part-owner.

We also stayed at Nature Island's Galetta cottage (the lower, roomier level). The cottage doesn't have air conditioning, just a couple of indusrial strength fans, and the sound of the waves crashing ashore almost under one's bed does take some getting used to. But the views are beautiful, and the package costs very reasonable. It's a great place to stay, once you learn the ropes (where and when to get fresh fruit, fish, bread and groceries, the cheap convenience of the "bus" to Roseau, the excellent local eateries.

Our experiences in Saba made us appreciate Dominica better. How was your second week, up in the hills? Our "upstairs neighbours", the mature American couple who rented the top floor of the cottage also spent a week where you did, after their week of diving. Perhaps this is what we should have done, too.

 

[peterjmaerz]

How was your second week, up in the hills? Our "upstairs neighbours", the mature American couple who rented the top floor of the cottage also spent a week where you did, after their week of diving. Perhaps this is what we should have done, too.

Hi Erich,

The Papilotte places you squarely in the heart of the tropical rainforest environment. This means everything that implies: the incredibly lush, fecund and exotic flora and fauna, gorgeous views, quiet *and* lots of humidity, bugs and, so some degree, heat. Also, steep climbs up and down to/from the main building. Not for everyone, but worked for me! Morning coffee overlooking a verdant valley with exotic birds flitting through the open air dining terrace. A small waterfall on the property under which you can get pounded by the clear cool water. Huge Trafalgar falls just a (very steep) 5 minute hike up the road. A property bursting with every kind of plant life imaginable (and hosting some pretty unusual beasts, like Agoutis). The drive up and down the road to Rousseau (sp?) worth the price of admission.

Very decent food and a very friendly staff rounded out the experience for me. I rented a jeep both times and, once I got used to tooting the horn around every bend and remembering to look to my right first when driving out of a parking lot, it was a pleasure. (Also very much needed- a detailed survey map; most roads are unmarked).
What a beautiful island!

By the way, I'm a strong proponent of St. Vincent, a largely unheralded dive location and also very lovely environment. For "critter" diving, it's by far, in my experience, the best of the Caribbean. The part of the island that houses all the dive oriented hotels is beautiful.


Best Regards,

 

[DougY]

Hi peterjmaerz,
I would agree with you on St Vincent, I went diving there and Dominica in November and St Vincent is critter capital ! You see sea horses on most dives and frog fish every third or fourth dive. I dove with Bill Trewis (sp) quite a character !

I think the dives sites on Dominica are more varied the ones in St Vincent all looked pretty similar. I am also thinking of Saba for later this year , will I be disappointed ? should I consider some where else ?

Doug

 

[peterjmaerz]

I am also thinking of Saba for later this year , will I be disappointed ? should I consider some where else ?

Hey Doug,

There are so many divers who report fantastic dive experiences on Saba. The more I read about folks' experiences, the more I realize how subjective they are. There's also the randomness of what happens to come your way on a dive.

Strictly speaking from my own experience/perspective, what I found most dramatic about Saba was the underwater topography: the famous pinnacles and other volcanic structures. There were a couple of sites (see above) that provided very high quality experiences for me in terms of coral and fish life. But, using your comments as a guide ("critter capital", "varied") I would say I'd prefer Bonaire or even St Lucia to Saba (though, again, many would disagree, especially on St. Lucia). Little Cayman was also a wonderful experience for me.

But, there's certainly no chance of abject diving disappointment in Saba, I'd say. And it's a very charming, unique island to boot. Certainly worth a visit.


Best,

 

[Pamdiv]

Great report Peter! It brings back the wonderful memories I have our trip to Saba several years ago. The friendliness of the people, the complete void of crime, and the quaint homes and 'roads' on the island. It was a fantastic trip. Makes me want to go back again soon!!!

 

[DougY]

peterjmaerz,
Thanks for the input, I totally agree about it being subjective especially after reading the different comments and experiances people have in some of the islands I have visited. As you say It sounds like Saba is worth a visit.

Cheers
Doug

 

[erichK]

Saba is definitely worth a visit. A large part of the reason our experience wasn't better was because we'd had such a great, but also fairly tiring time diving in Dominica with Nature Island Dive. That and the exhausting trip via Sr Maarten with friendly but often infuriating LIAT (the local joke: "Leaving Island Any Time") airlines.
Definitely wouldn't make Saba the second week of two weeks of diving again!

 

[Damselfish]

...but often infuriating LIAT (the local joke: "Leaving Island Any Time") airlines.

I thought LIAT stood for "Luggage In Another Terminal"

 

[erichK]

I thought LIAT stood for "Luggage In Another Terminal"

Both, I suspect. One of our bads ended up somewhere between the departure gate at Sint. Maarten and the Toronto luggage reclamation area for four (freezing winter) days! But they are (mostly) nice people and do have very reasonable fares. Also, we met both the first married couple of commercial airline pilots and the first woman pilot we have ever known through that airline. So they even seem rather progressive, in some areas. Unfortunately, these do not extent to digital-age punctuality, etc. etc.

To be fair though, us divers do tend to have lots of large and bulky bags...and they, perforce, rather small planes. So we'll probably fly with them again...but give it lots of time. And never again pack all our winter clothes in one bag 8-/ !

 

[asoares]

Looks like this thread is over a year old, so I'll put in my two cents..
Have you been back to Saba since? If you are planning a trip again just us out!