Samsung VP-D903i

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dees

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Hi All,

Totally new to this forum as well as UW videography (as well as land-based)
Happened to lay my hands on a Samsung VP-D903i videocam.

I've been told that if the videocam is a CCD type sensor, i don't really need to invest in video lights. Is this true?

But firstly, can anyone advise where i can get a housing for the videocam?
And if i should at all, bring the videocam underwater.

Thanks in advance. Please please please help. totally new in this.
 
dees:
Hi All,
Totally new to this forum as well as UW videography (as well as land-based)
Happened to lay my hands on a Samsung VP-D903i videocam.
I've been told that if the videocam is a CCD type sensor, i don't really need to invest in video lights. Is this true?
Generally speaking, yes. Any videocamera can shoot excellent underwater video above where the light levels fall off too much. For most prosumer cameras, this is generally above 60' or so. You'll need to use a red filter for anything below about 15' though to compensate for loss of red light at depth. I've shot very satisfactory video without lights - don't even own them - at depths of up to 55-60', especially in sunny tropical waters.
But firstly, can anyone advise where i can get a housing for the videocam?
Check the manufacturer's listing on this forum. I try to keep it updated regularly: http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?p=843048#post843048

Since I don't believe your camcorder supports the LANC protocol, you won't be able to purchase a housing with electronic controls so look at those manufacturers that offer mechanical control options. Aquatix and Equinox are two I'd start with. It will be preferable to have controls for on/off, standby/record, zoom and also white balance if possible. I've never seen a specific housing for Samsung models, but most of the generic housings will work as long as your camera will fit.

You can also buy a basic tube housing from a company like YellowJacket, which is somewhat less expensive. Turn on your camera, seal it in the housing and film everything from start to finish during your dive until you can open it again to shut it off.

And if i should at all, bring the videocam underwater.
Why not?
Thousands of divers do. The only concern is to make sure the housing is sealed prior to diving, salt water and electronics don't mix, exposure usually means buying a new camcorder.

Steve
 
thanks steve.. just thought that it'd be much 'safer' and lots easier to get it from Samsung.

ok i think the question should be which is more budget friendly brand to get for my particular model?
 
dees:
thanks steve.. just thought that it'd be much 'safer' and lots easier to get it from Samsung.
I'm not sure what you're referring to.

ok i think the question should be which is more budget friendly brand to get for my particular model?
In order by price/features(approx):

YellowJacket
DeepH20 Aquacam
Aquatix
Equinox
Top Dawg

The first three should be around $3-500 depending on features you choose, the Equinox starts around $650 and goes up from there. Your choices are limited beyond that since no one really offers a custom high-end housing for your particular camera. About the only other option would be a Top Dawg housing since it's got a flat front port, you wouldn't have problems with the position of your lens.

Probably none of these will allow you to view your LCD screen, so that's another consideration. There are add on LCD monitors that mount to the back port available on some of these models.

Another option is to look for something used on eBay. Chances are good you'll have to modify anything you find there though, most people shoot with Sony camcorders so most housings are setup to work with them. You might be better off picking up a Sony MiniDV camcorder instead of trying to find something to fit yours.
 
I built my own for a Samsung SCD23. I'm surprised at how well it's worked. I have start/stop and zoom controls. If doing it again (which I may this winter), I wouldn't bother with the zoom. Vis hasn't been good enough to use. I actualy need more the other way and hope to either modify the housing or build a nother, to accomodate a wide angle adapter.
I've had it as deep as 106 feet and it picks up pretty good detail with ambiant light. In fact, watching later, I often see details the camera picked up that I didn't at the time. Maybe it the light range it uses, but it seems to 'see' better through the plankton and stuff than I do. One dive in particular, max depth about 30 feet and viz of about 20 max on a small wreck. I took a shot with my buddy hovering over the remains of a paddlewheel. I could barely see him or the wheel and didn't hold much hope for the 'tape'. When we watched it later, he was clearly visible and you could see the entire section of the wheel (only half of it survives).
 
I too am interested in videography w/ my Sony DV. I have been studying this web site: http://www.aquatix.com/aquacam.htm

What I like about this unit is that you can start out w/ a basic housing ($359), & add controls later. Since I've gotten fairly good at operating MovieMaker on Windows XP (connected via a firewire), I would just shoot the whole dive & edit later. Best of all, its universal for just about all current model DV's.
 
Best thing about the start/stop control. I can load the camera an hour or more before the dive and close it up with silica gel inside (if you don't secure the silica gel packet, it will slide around and leave and odd noise on your tape :) ) giving it time to do it's work (absorb moisture and prevent fogging). My camera goes to sleep after 5 minutes of not taping and wakes up when you push "rec". Set for LP mode, I can record up to 90 minutes, which has always been more than enough for 2 dives, without opening up the housing. After the dive, I pack everything else, often not opening the housing till late in the day. All this hepls prevent the camera getting wet.
 
Groundhog, u build your own housing? from scratch or u modified an available housing. Please provide info? :) I might venture that way.
 
Built my own. Skip over to the DIY forum and search. If you don't find it right away, do a user search on Padipro. I started with his basic design. My biggest 'extravagence", I had a machinist put the PVC tube in a lathe and turn the grooves in the ends for the O rings. I bought the O rings and took both to him. Cost me $60 (set up time, could have had 2 done for $10 more, duh), but well worth the $$ spent as it's a very critical point. Used 1/4" o ring (material dia) and buried 2/3 in the groove)
 

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